Best external wood primer?

Quandary

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This is not really boaty but I know the breadth of experience in here so worth a try.
Our house was built for the Royal Navy in 1940, most of the materials and the design were imported from England but the stuff was of good quality. The fascia boards like most of the roof timbers appear to be pitch pine and have been painted with oil paint (dark green currently) the gutters are cast iron in sections with many joints and are painted the same, they run continuously around the four sides of the pitched roof. Both are sound but the gutters have at least one bad joint on each of the four sides, caused I believe by cumulative thermal movement. Where these leaks have soaked the timber fascia, the paint has deteriorated and the old coat two before last is visible, there are also some minor drying shrinkage cracks. The house is exposed to lots of Argyll rain and some salt spray from Loch Fyne as we are directly in line with the prevailing SSW. I have just repaired the leaking gutter joints with black CT1 which can be overpainted, the original sealant was oil based mastic putty.
I am getting close to a state where I will not be able to work comfortably at the top of ladders so weather permitting I want to do a long lasting repaint, I prefer to avoid water based paints. My plan is to touch up the fascia where it has peeled or worn with a good primer that will fill the hair cracks and then to overcoat the iron gutter and the wooden fascia with another coat of similar gloss, I want to avoid an undercoat if possible, I think there are many coats already there, I do not want to have to abrade much, I am not comfortable stretching out at heights and moving the big ladder is a pain.
I have recently used single pack Jotun Vinyguard 88 aluminium primer as a wood primer though it is really intended for metal, but perhaps one of you wooden boat owners can recommend something better, the top coat is Sandtex or Dulux exterior gloss (I think), again I would welcome recommendations. Durability is very important but because of the piecemeal nature of the surfaces I prefer to avoid two packs or epoxies as I will be limited in what I can manage each day because of our climate and my stamina.
 
At the moment I'm repainting my house which is on a hillside overlooking Cardigan Bay and the Irish Sea. The views are fantastis and so is the exposure. 2 of my sailing friends are retired decorators so I asked them for advice. Both of them without hesitation said they always use Dulux Trade - primer, undercoat and gloss. I asked about yacht paints and they said it isn't flexible enough for house woodwork - not sure why. Using it for interior decorating I've found it covers (colours and marks underneath) a lot better than water based paints and cheaper paints.
If you've got white walls, then the best cleaning preparation is 1 part bleach, 3 parts water and half a cupful of sugar soap in 5 ltres of water. Spray on with a garden sprayer and wash off after about 5 mins. It does kill plants in any flower beds you have against the house walls.
It's 12 years since I last painted it so there was a lot of bare wood. I used an orbital palm sander because it's easier to hold up a ladder and used 80 grit oxide sandpaper to remove the old flaking paint and get down to the solid stuff. I used decorators caulking to fill up large cracks. Then I washed it all down with sugar soap. After that then I started painting. Todays job is putting on the second coat of gloss on the dormer windows and surrounding wood work. I chickened out for the dormer windows and got scaffolding which make things a lot easier. But the facia boards and guttering is all ladder work.
If you're using plastic guttering, I'm told to rub it lightly with sandpaper and go straight to gloss paint. No primer, no undercoat.
Aluminium primer is good for very resinous wood so I believe.
I'll report back in 12 years to see how well it's withstood the elements.
Mike.
 
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