Bent stop cock handle

stu9000

stu9000

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Hmmm

This seemed fine at the start of the season but now is quite stiff.
Today the handle bent!

Three issues...
Can I close it with a spanner?
Can it be free'd up with a bit of 3 in one oil?
Why is it getting stiffer?

Cheers all

S
 
IIRC the seals in a ball valve are a plastic material, oil may not be good for the seals, fairy liquid may be a better idea. Is the valve stuck open or closed? I can't think of any reason why a valve should stick in the open position, but when closed, you could get fouling on the exposed face of the valve.
No reason I can think of why you shouldn't try a spanner on the valve shaft.
 
It is stuck in the open position.
It is probably over cooking it to say it is seized. It was closed yesterday and I opened it on saturday when I went on board. On closing it a day later the handle bent.
The fairly liquid is worth a try. Thanks. But Id like to understand why it is getting stiffer.

S
 
You can use a spanner, a small adjustable is best. Try opening and closing a few dozen times, it might free up a bit. A squirt of silicone grease up the outlet may also help.

New handles are available (Penguin or ASAP, can't remember), but be prepared to replace the whole seacock fitting at some point.
 
I had a spanner wired to the inlet seacock all last summer because the handle bent and later snapped off. It was only a few years old. They don't seem to be very strong - they can bend sideways and weaken more. . I put on a new handle this winter - the locking nut is very narrow, and I had to hacksaw and file it down to the threaded part.
 
Good example of why flange mounted seacocks would be better,though more expensive initially. With a flange mount bolted thru the hull,you could unscrew the ball valve,shove a plug in flange spigot,repair/replace ball valve-all while afloat. I wouldn't dare try it with your skin fitting though,as there is nothing to stop it turning in the GRP.

Fluid Film is a lanolin based lube that adheres very well under/in water,& doesn't harm any materials that I'm aware of. Have used it for anything that is subject to regular water immersion/spray-sail track to seacocks,etc.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluid-Film-Spray-AEROSOL-CAN/dp/B001OKBFBS

Cheers / Len
 
If sink waste then rubbish from sink
If foul water outlet then excess paper
They do not have plastic seals . They are just a steel ball in an enclosure
Probably reached its sell by date & spindle has sheared on one side or corrosion blocked rotation
They often clap out at 5 years or less
Leave it alone, check hoses ok & not likely to fail
Have wooden plug next to valve for emergency
Leave it in the open position & change when boat dried out
Have a new one standing by as you might be able to dry out for a tide
May slso require a new skin fitting so a spare would be advisable
 
stu9000 said:
View attachment 52428

Hmmm

This seemed fine at the start of the season but now is quite stiff.
Today the handle bent!

Three issues...
Can I close it with a spanner?
Can it be free'd up with a bit of 3 in one oil?
Why is it getting stiffer?

Cheers all

S
Click to expand...

The problem with these type of ball valve made from DZR brass is that the handles are only painted mild steel pressings. The handles rust and you cannot service the valves with removing then completely from the hull.

On my current boat I have 316 stainless steel 3 part ball valves which come with stainless steel handles. The seals are PTFE than should not need any lubrication and can be serviced in place without removing any pipework by fitting a plug on the outside of the skin fitting to reduce water ingress.

Last time I did that the diver who inserted the plug fitted it into the wrong skin fitting and I still managed to service the valve without too much water coming in.

triad_servicing.jpg
 
colind3782 said:
Do you have a link Nigel? I need a new handle for my heads stopcock but I can't find them anywhere online, including Penguin and ASAP.
Click to expand...

This is the body of the email when I last bought one:

From: Deacons [Deacons@aladdinscave.co.uk]
Sent: 28 February 2011 12:14
Subject: Seacock handle

Good Morning Mr Mercer [sic], We can certainly still supply the handles AF11-75040-3. They are now priced at £5.60 inc VAT. I have one in stock and it would take 12 days or so to get more. Unfortunately it is the only one which will fit your ball valve. Yes, they do not last very long!

Will MacKean

Force 4 Chandlery
Deacons Boatyard
Bursledon
Southampton
SO31 8AW

Tel 02380 402 182

#seacockhandle
 
Last edited:
Rogershaw said:
The problem with these type of ball valve made from DZR brass is that the handles are only painted mild steel pressings. The handles rust and you cannot service the valves with removing then completely from the hull.

On my current boat I have 316 stainless steel 3 part ball valves which come with stainless steel handles. The seals are PTFE than should not need any lubrication and can be serviced in place without removing any pipework by fitting a plug on the outside of the skin fitting to reduce water ingress.

Last time I did that the diver who inserted the plug fitted it into the wrong skin fitting and I still managed to service the valve without too much water coming in.

triad_servicing.jpg
Click to expand...
+1

SS 3 part valves are a bit pricey though.
There are ways to bung the skin fitting through an open valve without resorting to swimming.
 
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