Beneteau switch panel fault -

Tintin

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My Beneteau First 325, of 1988 vintage, has a switch panel made by Robin Radio Marine of France.

It is labelled "electronic panel comutation 12 BS".

It is more than just some switches - there are reed switches which I think act as breakers, relays, and a whole heap if circuitry.

A few times last season I would turn the power on the boat on, and everything would light up as normal, red lights to show every circuit off.

Then when I switched anything on the whole panel would die and there would be no output and no LED's.

Repeated switching on and off of the main battery switch would solve it.

A few months ago the same happened just before a passage, but this time it wouldn't sort itself out, so I went and bought a 12 way panel as a temp measure.

However I would like to get the original back working. I have stripped it but can't see any burnt out components, pcb track damage, or dry joints.

Anyone had anything similar?

Or know anyone Cornwall way that knows their electronics?

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Maybe worth contacting a Beneteau Dealer asking them to pass the query on to Beneteau for advice. I've had hit and miss experiences of direct contact with Beneteau but if you can break through their exterior you may get the help you need.
 
I presume fitting the temporary panel has solved it.

As the whole panel went I just wondered if you had a bad connection on the supply circuit. The panel indicators when on would take very little power but switching in a circuit puts a load on. If there was a bad connection with high resistance in the supply circuit then the voltage to the panel could drop right off as the current went up.

Did you check the voltage at the panel power input +ve against battery -ve and panel -ve against battery -ve when a) nothing was switched on on the panel and b) when something was switched on on the panel.

Swapping the panel may have got rid of this bad connection.

Just a thought but would have eliminated that as a possible issue.
 
I presume fitting the temporary panel has solved it.

As the whole panel went I just wondered if you had a bad connection on the supply circuit. The panel indicators when on would take very little power but switching in a circuit puts a load on. If there was a bad connection with high resistance in the supply circuit then the voltage to the panel could drop right off as the current went up.

Did you check the voltage at the panel power input +ve against battery -ve and panel -ve against battery -ve when a) nothing was switched on on the panel and b) when something was switched on on the panel.

Swapping the panel may have got rid of this bad connection.

Just a thought but would have eliminated that as a possible issue.

Yes, well eliminated. It does the same on the bench at home with a regulated power supply.
 
Found it. Voltage seemed down on the -ve and +rails, just a bit anyway.

Hairdryer on hot and cold changed the temp.

Tested a few components e.g. the voltage regulator, a 7805, and all good.

Tacked a new -ve and +ve onto the main rails and bypassed the proper connection. And it worked.

Desoldered the proper connection to find a horror hidden beneath. Obviously there has been a loose connection causing arcing over a long time.


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Possible the root cause is overload/too much current flowing for the designed current flow. For example a fridge added or some other new since build load. Or a fault in the boat wiring that is causing excess current to flow. Though on balance of probabilities it would corrosion caused by a water leak above the board.
 
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