Beneteau 373

[Kinsale373]

Hi All,
Just joined the Forum. I bought a Bene 373 in France last year (2004 Boat). I have her in Kinsale, Ireland. I'm happy enough with her performance to date. I'm finding it very difficult to get any decent technical Info. I've tried going direct to Beneteau and then through the Dealers here and the UK with no joy. Hoping to make contact with other Bene 373 owners or find forums which would be helpful.

My current questions are:

My boat originally was fitted with a Eberspacher diesel heater. The Burner unit went missing before I purchased. I think it was an Eberspacher D4 but would like to confirm this before I purchase. Can anyone confirm?

I have a fixed prop with prop nut anode and also a circular anode on the shaft . ( 40H Volvo Penta MD2040 Engine) Anyone know the spec on the anodes?

Id like to contact anyone who owns or has interest in Beneteau 373's

Regards, Kinsale373

 

[Tranona]

Just call Eber with the serial number to identify it.

The anodes are freely available from most anode suppliers. There is nothing special about them except the prop anode is specific to Beneteau, but there are so many in use it is not difficult to source.

Not sure it is a good idea to put a shaft anode on the exposed shaft as it restricts water flow to the bearing, which is a weak point on these boats. The space between the bearing and the prop is to allow water to flow freely as the bearing is water lubricated and fed from the engine raw water system. The anode on the end is normally enough to get at least a season's use, but if you experience high wastage you would be better fitting a hull anode bonded to the shaft through the gearbox housing. Also, if you regularly use shorepower make sure the boat has a galvanic isolator.

Ancasta the UK dealer for Beneteau are a good source of information and spares.

 

[Skylark]

Hi and welcome,

Great choice of boat, congratulations.

There is an Owners Association website and Forum. I'm not a member so can offer no further info, I'm afraid.

It's something like www.boauk.org but it's easy to find with a quick web search.

My experience of getting detailed info out of Beneteau France and the UK Dealer Network leaves a lot to be desired, imho, based upon and compared to a working career in automotive engineering. I experienced a lot of hassle trying to get warranty issues fixed.

In general, a lot of good and helpful information can be gained from these forums thanks to the generosity of some knowledgeable contributors. Not everyone is a fan of modern boat technology so some filtering is sometimes required

 

[cmedsailor]

I have a Beneteau Oceanis 361, the boat that Ben373 has replaced. I believe the two boats have many similarities. Happy to answer any question you think I could help.
I cannot, nevertheless, answer the Eberspacher question but as long as the prop anode is concerned this is a very common anode. You only need to know if your shaft is 25mm (most probably) or 30mm and ask for a cone anode. As Tranona said the shaft anode is not necessary.

 

[Kinsale373]

Sorry for the late response Tranona, ive been travelling for the last few days. Thanks for the useful info.
I managed to get a response from the French Guy who originally looked after the boat in Trouville, France.
He says that the Prop anode is a "Radine Diameter 30". Im hoping that this will be specific enough to identify it. The circular shaft anode is simply a diameter 30 version of a common shaft anone.
I see exactly what you are saying relating to the position of the shaft anode . It does seem to be pretty close to the bearing outlet from a photo I have.. I will take a close look when I lift out for Antifouling.

Im talking to "Butlertechnik" in the UK on the Eberspacher and they have been very helpful and identified the part I need. Their pricing is the best I have seen.

You point on the Galvanic Isolator is good. I have it on by list to check to see if I have one.


Thanks Again, Kinsale 373

 

[Kinsale373]

Thanks for that David. I'll follow up on link and hopefully find a specific Forum. I must say, I that I am very happy with the responses on this site. There seems to be a huge amount of info available here . I just need to improve my searches and ask the right questions I think.
Thanks Again. Kinsale 373

 

[Kinsale373]

Thanks for that cmedsailor. I think that I have enough info now to replace the Anodes (30mm) and Eberspacher. Thanks for the offer to consult. Ill keep it in mind as more questions come (I.m sure they will!) My last boat was an old Trapper 500 which we sailed out of Kinsale for 20 years! There was a great trapper community in the UK and here and it simple to get information from many enthusiasts. I'm finding the move to Beneteau more difficult from that perspective. Were delighted with the boat though. This site is very helpful though so Im more hopeful now.
Thanks again, Kinsale 373

 

[Heckler]

Sorry for the late response Tranona, ive been travelling for the last few days. Thanks for the useful info.
I managed to get a response from the French Guy who originally looked after the boat in Trouville, France.
He says that the Prop anode is a "Radine Diameter 30". Im hoping that this will be specific enough to identify it. The circular shaft anode is simply a diameter 30 version of a common shaft anone.
I see exactly what you are saying relating to the position of the shaft anode . It does seem to be pretty close to the bearing outlet from a photo I have.. I will take a close look when I lift out for Antifouling.

Im talking to "Butlertechnik" in the UK on the Eberspacher and they have been very helpful and identified the part I need. Their pricing is the best I have seen.

You point on the Galvanic Isolator is good. I have it on by list to check to see if I have one.


Thanks Again, Kinsale 373

Some of the Benes had some of the exhaust raw water fed to the stern gland "rubber bullet" to lube it, some, such as my 381, just had a through hull fitting feeding water to the stern gland. I found on mine that the previous owner had fitted a serrated rope cutter between the prop and the rubber cutlass bearing leaving just a couple of mm space. When under power it appears that the prop shaft was moving firward slightly allowing the rope cutter to seal the end of the cutlass bearing, hence no cooling lube water could get in and out of the stern tube. This allowed the stern gland "rubber bullet" or "volvo seal" as they are variously known, to heat up and make a hi pitched whine. This was solved by "burping" it. I did some research and found out the the rope cutter manufacturers make a prop shaft coupling spacer, they recommend about a 12mm gap between the rubber stern gland and the cutter/prop to allow the water to circulate. I have just fitted one, it has transfirmed the boat from the point of view of vibration, the cutter no longer bears against the cutlass bearing when under way. I suggest you check the gap between your shaft anode and the cutlass bearing shoulder. I suspect that the previous owner has put ine on because in my experience, the prop cone anodes last less than a season. The previous owner of my boat had fitted a bronze prop, pointed out by the useless surveyor! and also had fitted a pear drop anode, connected to the gearbox, all this I suspect to address the prop cone anode issue that Benes of mines era suffered from.
Stu

 

[Kinsale373]

Hi Stu, I have the through hull feed to the bearing. I am afloat but looking at a photo of the prop i appearthave about 10 mm gap between the bearing exit and the shaft anode. Thanks for highlighting the importance, I have it on my list for when i dry her out next month, Kinsale 373