Beaching Legs

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surekandoo

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My boat, a Feeling 720, is fitted with threaded sockets in the hull just below the toe rail which I assume are the attachment points for beaching legs.

I have chance to obtain some telescopic aluminium tube sections free of charge which I'm sure could be adapted to make the legs.

I understand the basic principles of attachment and the need to have fore & aft guys attached to the bottom of the legs.

Some questions need answering please....

1) the distance from the socket to ground level when the boat is grounded on the stub keel is 1.65m. Is it advisable to set the legs a little shorter than this so the boat takes a very slight list when taking the ground?

2) should the bolts attaching the top of the legs to the hull be left loose to all own for some angular movement?

3) are there any other tips or advice worth passing on?

Many thanks.
 
There's a page about them on my website at http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Legs.aspx

1. Yes, best to leave some clearance. I knew someone who kept his boat on a fore-and-aft mooring on legs and he reckoned a foot clearance on a boat about 34 ft.

2. Not sure that leaving loose bolts is a good idea but you do need some freedom for movement. Perhaps bolts that bottom inside the sockets? Although in the bottom pic on my page the legs appear to be bolted up tight to the hull.
 
I've got legs on my boat, also a Feeling 720.

They are set up to be more or less at the same level as the bottom of the stub keel so that when the boat dries out it is level with both legs supporting it, but the majority of the weight is on the keel. I could check the length if you want,

The legs also have a bracket which is about 15" long which is welded to the legs just below the fixing point. It is fairly sturdy (about 4mm alloy) and is shaped to match the shape of the hull. FWIW it is fitted with a squidgy material to protect the gel coat. When fitted the legs are angled outboard by a few inches which means that the fore and aft lines pull them hardish up against the hull as well as holding them vertical when viewed beam on. I would guess that the bracket takes most of the force onto the hull rather than the mounting socket.

The bottom of the legs have a foot which is about 5" square.

I found out the hard way that it is best to tighten the bolts reasonably firmly. They will never hold the legs against the forces which are involved (they are at the end of a darn great lever!) but you don't want them to have any play. If they do and the boat does not settle onto level ground then the bolt can get bent. It is not easy straightening a thick threaded stainless bolt.

One set of the legs also have steps built in. They are a bit like mast steps and they make life a lot easier to climb on and off the boat when it is dried out.

I don't use the legs that often but they are very useful at times. It's also quite reassuring to know that, if I get my tidal calculations wrong, then I can just get the legs out.
 
Thanks, Vyv,

2 things are apparent from the photos.

I note that the legs are splayed out at an angle. What angle is recommended?

What is purpose of the padded horizontal brackets near the top of the legs?

The aluminium tubing I have access to is not round, it's an unusual profile from a large self erecting canopy which is currently being scrapped by the owners. The OD of the outer tube is about 75mm from memory. Does this sound as though it will be strong enough?
If not I have enough tube to double it if necessary.
 
Rigger Mortice said:
I've got legs on my boat, also a Feeling 720.

They are set up to be more or less at the same level as the bottom of the stub keel so that when the boat dries out it is level with both legs supporting it, but the majority of the weight is on the keel. I could check the length if you want,

The legs also have a bracket which is about 15" long which is welded to the legs just below the fixing point. It is fairly sturdy (about 4mm alloy) and is shaped to match the shape of the hull. FWIW it is fitted with a squidgy material to protect the gel coat. When fitted the legs are angled outboard by a few inches which means that the fore and aft lines pull them hardish up against the hull as well as holding them vertical when viewed beam on. I would guess that the bracket takes most of the force onto the hull rather than the mounting socket.

The bottom of the legs have a foot which is about 5" square.

I found out the hard way that it is best to tighten the bolts reasonably firmly. They will never hold the legs against the forces which are involved (they are at the end of a darn great lever!) but you don't want them to have any play. If they do and the boat does not settle onto level ground then the bolt can get bent. It is not easy straightening a thick threaded stainless bolt.

One set of the legs also have steps built in. They are a bit like mast steps and they make life a lot easier to climb on and off the boat when it is dried out.

I don't use the legs that often but they are very useful at times. It's also quite reassuring to know that, if I get my tidal calculations wrong, then I can just get the legs out.
Click to expand...

That's useful info, thanks. Any chance of a picture???
 
The pads are to cope with the lateral loads that RM discusses. The legs need more than one location point so that they cannot bend beneath the hull.

75 mm sounds about right. My Yacht Legs have a wall thickness of about 6 - 8 mm from memory.
 
vyv_cox said:
The pads are to cope with the lateral loads that RM discusses. The legs need more than one location point so that they cannot bend beneath the hull.

Makes sense - hadn't thought of that!

75 mm sounds about right. My Yacht Legs have a wall thickness of about 6 - 8 mm from memory.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure of wall thickness, will have a measure up later this week.

Thanks again. :D
 
Speaking from book-learning only, if your shrouds are in the right place it can help to have the top of the legs extend two or three feet above the pivot bolts to allow you to lash the legs to the shrouds. This is not to take the place of the two fore-and-aft lines, but to add to the stiffness of the whole rig.

Mike
 
vyv_cox said:
The pads are to cope with the lateral loads that RM discusses. The legs need more than one location point so that they cannot bend beneath the hull.
Click to expand...

We saw just that happen in Ilfracombe with a lovely old classic boat. The noise as she rolled over onto the leg with the cracking and creaking still raises the hackles on my neck. Those looked like soft wood legs and were not angled out.

Despite an open cockpit, she did come up on the tide with the help of every available dinghy and fender in the harbour.
 
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