Artic Warrior
Well-Known Member
I didn't delete I tried to edit but it deleted instead....this new version of this site is absolutely rubbish
Beaching legs and balance
- Thread starter solent clown
- Start date
solent clown
RIP
that is exactly what Tridents have as standard, a captive nut bonded in to a spreader pad. The legs we have are wooden, 4x4, with steel plates gusseting the holes, and a bleedin' great bolt to go into the hull fitting. Yes, on a 24fter storage is an issue! If we go far enough to nedd them, I think they will live in a tender towed behind us
coopec
N/A
I thought I knew what beaching legs are for but obviously I have no idea. Could you please give me a link to your website?
I can't work out why Fisherman said "Also fixed with only one bolt and rope foot stays, so they can move a bit. You wouldn't be able to adjust things acrow style in a beaching/falling tide scenario.
Clive
fisherman
Well-Known Member
A boat had legs with two bolts, as the boat ranged about fore and aft a leg caught the bottom and split, with only one bolt it would have rotated slightly. Ropes fore and aft from the bottom of each leg to roughly locate it vertically. I thought you suggested acrows 'could be modified for beaching legs?' I think probably not, they would need to be fixed length, and difficult if needed to fiddle with as the boat settles.
fisherman
Well-Known Member
here's one, ropes not in place as it's a quiet location, the bolt is captive in the leg, huge wing nut on the inside to kick tight. The boat fell in on the quay on this occasion.
coopec
N/A
here's one, ropes not in place as it's a quiet location, the bolt is captive in the leg, huge wing nut on the inside to kick tight. The boat fell in on the quay on this occasion.
Thanks Fisherman. I think I'm starting to understand: the legs are part of the boat/yacht. The ropes would allow the leg to be moved forward or aft and maybe in/out from the hull?
Gee with a fin keel they'd be a bit dodgy?
Where I live we only have tides of ½m but 2000km North the tides can be 11.8m.
Thanks
Clive
fisherman
Well-Known Member
Fore /aft but not in/out. The idea is you arrive back in your tidal port and put the legs on, the boat can shuffle around until it settles on the keel, then it falls slightly one way onto a leg which is two inches short so doesn't land until after the boat settles. Or in my case one leg and the wall the other side.
As I said, not entirely suitable for a yacht especially fin keel, where there are fore/aft balance issues.
As I said, not entirely suitable for a yacht especially fin keel, where there are fore/aft balance issues.
jwilson
Well-Known Member
Usuually done the other way round: shorter legs allow the keel to touch first on a flat hard surface. Use overlong legs on a dead flat concrete base and something will probably break. Fair enough if you always dry on semi-firm mud/shingle where the overlong legs can sink in a bit.
solent clown
RIP
here's one, ropes not in place as it's a quiet location, the bolt is captive in the leg, huge wing nut on the inside to kick tight. The boat fell in on the quay on this occasion.
pretty much identical to what we have. I have decided that when we use them in anger we will add a loose line fore and aft so they have some potential to move and settle, but cannot fall over. I am also considering a stern leg , but leaving it quite short and only for "emergency tipping" maybe a foot too short, and in aluminium tube - or add a mount to slide the spinny boom down the stern with a foot on it to do the job? It is only to stop a wobble, not to take the weight of the boat after all
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Brent Swain
N/A
That's what I like about using sockets at the chine. Nothing needed to hold them in place.
solent clown
RIP
how does that work then? Are the legs profiled to hug the hull above and below the chine thus locking themselves in place?
Brent Swain
N/A
I weld a 2 inch stainless pipe in, flush at the chine extending 8 inches inside,and flush on the outside, with plenty of bracing inside. A line from an eye on the leg ties onto a stanchion. It has no more drag than a thru hull.
solent clown
RIP
OK I understand, I thought you meant you were using the chine shape to lock the leg by virtue of its profile. Ours use a threaded socket in the hull, common practice this side of the pond, do ours just slot into the hole then without a thread? If so I assume it is a blind hole? Funnily enough I was looking at a big old wooden fishing boat today, the owner, now 74, was fairing the hull after a recent unfortunate event, a sinking due to a frozen and broken seacock. It's leg sockets were less substantial than our own tiny yacht's. After several decades of ownership and maintenance both as a fishing charter vessel and then his own personal boat, he was pretty sanguine about the whole thing, and it was gratifying to see him and his old mates hard at it with tools in hand,into their eighth decade. There is a joke in there somewhere, but I didn't spot it until I had typed 
Dutch01527
Well-Known Member
I have just fitted Yacht Leg Company adjustable legs to my 28 foot shallow fin keel boat. Bought them on line unused for £500. List price c£2,500 from memory . Very well engineered and easy to fit. Needed a bracket fitted to the boats side which took a couple of hours because I had good accessibility to fix a substantial backing plate and thereafter can be slotted in place is a couple of minutes. Same as on Viv Cox’s website
They have about 600mm adjustability via a wheel to allow for sloping grounds. To me, sailing in the Bristol Channel, they are a real boom. Benefits of a bilge keeler with fin keel performance. I am lucky in that my keel is c.1.5 metres long and has about 1/2 of the boats weight so that it will settle on the keel well in mud, shingle or sand and the legs provide lateral stability. Good company to deal with as well, they helped me with fitting instructions even though my legs were second hand.
They have about 600mm adjustability via a wheel to allow for sloping grounds. To me, sailing in the Bristol Channel, they are a real boom. Benefits of a bilge keeler with fin keel performance. I am lucky in that my keel is c.1.5 metres long and has about 1/2 of the boats weight so that it will settle on the keel well in mud, shingle or sand and the legs provide lateral stability. Good company to deal with as well, they helped me with fitting instructions even though my legs were second hand.
solent clown
RIP
do the bottoms have "feet" or are they just the same as the leg diameter?
Dutch01527
Well-Known Member
They have feet that are about 300mm by 200mm approximately. The legs are about 100mm diameter. The overall feel is high quality design and manufacturing.
Brent Swain
N/A
With a threaded socket, you have to line up the threads and screw it in, from a dinghy. Much easier to just push it in and tie it to a stanchion. Easier to take out , to by just easing of the line, from on deck.
Yes it is a blind hole, all stainless inside.
Stainless type 3`16 ball valves have given me zero problems in over 40 years of use.
Yes it is a blind hole, all stainless inside.
Stainless type 3`16 ball valves have given me zero problems in over 40 years of use.
OK I understand, I thought you meant you were using the chine shape to lock the leg by virtue of its profile. Ours use a threaded socket in the hull, common practice this side of the pond, do ours just slot into the hole then without a thread? If so I assume it is a blind hole? Funnily enough I was looking at a big old wooden fishing boat today, the owner, now 74, was fairing the hull after a recent unfortunate event, a sinking due to a frozen and broken seacock. It's leg sockets were less substantial than our own tiny yacht's. After several decades of ownership and maintenance both as a fishing charter vessel and then his own personal boat, he was pretty sanguine about the whole thing, and it was gratifying to see him and his old mates hard at it with tools in hand,into their eighth decade. There is a joke in there somewhere, but I didn't spot it until I had typed
solent clown
RIP
ours are easy to put in from the deck, but the bolts take an age to do up. However tey are wood, and I have not tried them actually in the water yet, maybe the buoyancy will be an issue.