Tex
Well-Known Member
Can anyone suggest a low cost, easy to install battery monitor?
Battery Monitor
- Thread starter Tex
- Start date
Phoenix of Hamble
Well-Known Member
The Nasa BM1... cheap and effective.
V Happy with mine.
V Happy with mine.
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easy to install battery monitor?
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Most battery monitors need to be spliced into one of the fat cables running from the battery so not an easy installation for your average yacht owner.
I do however consider my battery monitor to be one of the best upgrades on my boat.
When deciding which monitor to buy consider the depth of the instrument display head with relation to free space behind panelling.
easy to install battery monitor?
[/ QUOTE ]
Most battery monitors need to be spliced into one of the fat cables running from the battery so not an easy installation for your average yacht owner.
I do however consider my battery monitor to be one of the best upgrades on my boat.
When deciding which monitor to buy consider the depth of the instrument display head with relation to free space behind panelling.
Playtime
Well-Known Member
I would second the BM1 - about £90. It is also flush mounting and comes with all necessary cables. Installation was about 3 on a scale of 1 to 10!
DipperToo
Well-Known Member
Check what your max current drain wil be - some monitors only come with a small shunt. I bought a Victron monitor which came with a 400A shunt and RJ45 connectors for the connectors to the display head - faultless. Only proviso is to make sure the shunt is connected the right way round due to the harness cabling. You should ve able to find the single battery monitor for c£118 (Energy Solutions) here>> Victron
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
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Most battery monitors need to be spliced into one of the fat cables running from the battery so not an easy installation for your average yacht owner.
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/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhat? Undoing a battery cable, bolting it to a shunt, then conecting a jumper cable (supplied) from the shunt back to battery!!
If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
Most battery monitors need to be spliced into one of the fat cables running from the battery so not an easy installation for your average yacht owner.
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/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhat? Undoing a battery cable, bolting it to a shunt, then conecting a jumper cable (supplied) from the shunt back to battery!!
If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
AlanRD
Well-Known Member
How does it work with three batteries near the engine and one in the bow?
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/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhat? Undoing a battery cable, bolting it to a shunt, then conecting a jumper cable (supplied) from the shunt back to battery!!
If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
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It sounds as though you left the shunt waggling around in mid air? Ouch.
But it is interesting that your monitor came with such DIY fit extras, my Link-10 box had just a display head and basic shunt. Fitting involved mounting the shunt properly on a nearby bulkhead, splicing the high amp battery cable and routing this to the shunt.
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhat? Undoing a battery cable, bolting it to a shunt, then conecting a jumper cable (supplied) from the shunt back to battery!!
If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
[/ QUOTE ]
It sounds as though you left the shunt waggling around in mid air? Ouch.
But it is interesting that your monitor came with such DIY fit extras, my Link-10 box had just a display head and basic shunt. Fitting involved mounting the shunt properly on a nearby bulkhead, splicing the high amp battery cable and routing this to the shunt.
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How does it work with three batteries near the engine and one in the bow?
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A monitor can effectively count amps when connected in series with a common black -ve cable.
How does it work with three batteries near the engine and one in the bow?
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A monitor can effectively count amps when connected in series with a common black -ve cable.
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
The NASA BM-1 that I have recently installed is simplicity itself, and yes you do have to mount the shunt onto a convenient surface /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. But the kit includes a short jumper lead from shunt to battery, easy.
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If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
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Funny story.
Was moored up next to a Westerly owning seadog in Treguier two years ago, the sort of chap who has clocked up 20 years more skippering experience than me. The swmbo and I were invited aboard for a glass of that posh white wine whose name I forget.
During the conversation he complained his new battery monitor was not working so I offered to investigate. He had wired up the shunt and monitor across the +ve and -ve battery poles! Not sure why the whole thing had not gone up in smoke.
When I pulled a face and said the shunt must be wired in series with the main electric supply cable, he said "right time to get a pro electrician onboard".
If thats beyond the average yachtsman, he better not start the job!
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Funny story.
Was moored up next to a Westerly owning seadog in Treguier two years ago, the sort of chap who has clocked up 20 years more skippering experience than me. The swmbo and I were invited aboard for a glass of that posh white wine whose name I forget.
During the conversation he complained his new battery monitor was not working so I offered to investigate. He had wired up the shunt and monitor across the +ve and -ve battery poles! Not sure why the whole thing had not gone up in smoke.
When I pulled a face and said the shunt must be wired in series with the main electric supply cable, he said "right time to get a pro electrician onboard".
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
I know some people find boat maintenance repair and improvement a black art, IMO it kind of goes hand in hand with boat ownership. After all if your halfway across the channel and something fails, it pays if you have the skill to be able fix it.
AlanRD
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that but could you explain in Idiot's Guide terms.
I am usually very practical and methodical, and can do wiring if told to connect A to B but when terms such as 'connected in series' are used the brain goes into freeze mode.
I would like to use one monitor to read each battery in turn if that is possible. So with batteries A, B, C and D, what do I do?
I am usually very practical and methodical, and can do wiring if told to connect A to B but when terms such as 'connected in series' are used the brain goes into freeze mode.
I would like to use one monitor to read each battery in turn if that is possible. So with batteries A, B, C and D, what do I do?
fireball
Well-Known Member
The only time we've had pro's on our boat was when we had a lightning strike which took out the electrics & electronics ....
I had to diagnose and point out all the problems (including a duff LED in the switch panel and a blown bulb in the stern light), I had to check his installation (neatly done - but missed out the bulb in the stern light because he didn't know what wattage it should be as I had removed the old one so I could get some spares!!) and insist that it isn't rocket science to purchase a single red LED and solder into the switch pannel!!
So, my experience of Pro's on boats is that they are paid a lot of money to make a slightly neater job of something that I can do myself.
I do accept that there are certain things I can't easily do - hence it is easier/cheaper to outsource, but I keep that to a minimum!
I had to diagnose and point out all the problems (including a duff LED in the switch panel and a blown bulb in the stern light), I had to check his installation (neatly done - but missed out the bulb in the stern light because he didn't know what wattage it should be as I had removed the old one so I could get some spares!!) and insist that it isn't rocket science to purchase a single red LED and solder into the switch pannel!!
So, my experience of Pro's on boats is that they are paid a lot of money to make a slightly neater job of something that I can do myself.
I do accept that there are certain things I can't easily do - hence it is easier/cheaper to outsource, but I keep that to a minimum!
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I would like to use one monitor to read each battery in turn if that is possible. So with batteries A, B, C and D, what do I do?
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First we have to distinguish between reading volts and counting amps.
The type of monitors discussed here count net amp hours flowing in and out of the main domestic battery bank. Volts are also useful to assess battery charge, in fact volts provide a more accurate assessment of battery charge but the numbers are more difficult to interpret under variable load e.g. an autopilot twitching the rudder back and fore.
Counting amps requires grafting a chunky lump of calibrated metal known as a shunt into a thick main battery distribution cable. If you really want to measure amp hour consumption for each battery you would need 4 such shunts. Yacht owners typically don't bother doing this for reason of cost and the fact that only one battery bank supplies domestic boat power needs.
Counting amp hours for a starting battery or anchor windlass battery won't normally be that helpfull in allowing you to monitor total power consumption on your boat.
Therefore you just need to find a common +ve or _ve power cable scematically close to a common battery terminal. On my Bavaria with its main power switch on (unusually) the common negative side, this was the right place to splice in the shunt.
I would like to use one monitor to read each battery in turn if that is possible. So with batteries A, B, C and D, what do I do?
[/ QUOTE ]
First we have to distinguish between reading volts and counting amps.
The type of monitors discussed here count net amp hours flowing in and out of the main domestic battery bank. Volts are also useful to assess battery charge, in fact volts provide a more accurate assessment of battery charge but the numbers are more difficult to interpret under variable load e.g. an autopilot twitching the rudder back and fore.
Counting amps requires grafting a chunky lump of calibrated metal known as a shunt into a thick main battery distribution cable. If you really want to measure amp hour consumption for each battery you would need 4 such shunts. Yacht owners typically don't bother doing this for reason of cost and the fact that only one battery bank supplies domestic boat power needs.
Counting amp hours for a starting battery or anchor windlass battery won't normally be that helpfull in allowing you to monitor total power consumption on your boat.
Therefore you just need to find a common +ve or _ve power cable scematically close to a common battery terminal. On my Bavaria with its main power switch on (unusually) the common negative side, this was the right place to splice in the shunt.
[ QUOTE ]
So, my experience of Pro's on boats is that they are paid a lot of money to make a slightly neater job of something that I can do myself.
[/ QUOTE ]
Spot on, the guy who fitted the battery monitor on my boat was not employed for his brains. But he was highly proficient and neat at the hands-on side of the job.
When he discovered that my Bavaria had a mains switch on the negative rail instead of the positive he started fretting about the need to run a new heavy duty red cable half way around the yacht in order to fit the shunt.
Fortunately I was onboard and challenged him using O level physics, I told him we are just counting amps and it did not matter whether this was performed on the red or black side of the circuit. He grumbled so I told him I'd take the risk of the setup failing.
So, my experience of Pro's on boats is that they are paid a lot of money to make a slightly neater job of something that I can do myself.
[/ QUOTE ]
Spot on, the guy who fitted the battery monitor on my boat was not employed for his brains. But he was highly proficient and neat at the hands-on side of the job.
When he discovered that my Bavaria had a mains switch on the negative rail instead of the positive he started fretting about the need to run a new heavy duty red cable half way around the yacht in order to fit the shunt.
Fortunately I was onboard and challenged him using O level physics, I told him we are just counting amps and it did not matter whether this was performed on the red or black side of the circuit. He grumbled so I told him I'd take the risk of the setup failing.
figgywig
New Member
NASA bm1 fitted to my boat last year very good and very easy too fit you can monitor volts and amps used on one bank only. Only complaint is it has a 100 amp shunt which could be a problem if you use that bank for starting as starting amps will be higher than 100 amps. If you need to monitor two banks then you will need 2 monitors.
dulcibella
Well-Known Member
NASA bm1 is simple to install -instructions exceptionally clear and straightforward and display is excellent.
AlanRD
Well-Known Member
Many thanks for the explanation. It begins to make sense.
As the starter battery is separate from the others I presume it is only worth having a check on the two domestic batteries and this means one shunt to give Amp consumption and an average Voltage reading. Having said that, if the lights go dim it would be a case of starting the engine.
I don't know how the windlass battery is connected but at a guess assume it is isolated and connected direct to the alternator. Perhaps as the windlass is only used with the engine running knowing the voltage is not so critical.
I do have a multi-meter and sometimes check the voltage of each battery after everything has been shut down for a few hours. It would just have been so much more convenient to flick a switch to get a reading for each battery.
As the starter battery is separate from the others I presume it is only worth having a check on the two domestic batteries and this means one shunt to give Amp consumption and an average Voltage reading. Having said that, if the lights go dim it would be a case of starting the engine.
I don't know how the windlass battery is connected but at a guess assume it is isolated and connected direct to the alternator. Perhaps as the windlass is only used with the engine running knowing the voltage is not so critical.
I do have a multi-meter and sometimes check the voltage of each battery after everything has been shut down for a few hours. It would just have been so much more convenient to flick a switch to get a reading for each battery.
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
That old chestnut again!
Never forget, The Titanic was built by professionals, but the Ark was built by amateurs!
You dont need an explanation of which was the most successful /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Never forget, The Titanic was built by professionals, but the Ark was built by amateurs!
You dont need an explanation of which was the most successful /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif