Battery Management

fiddle

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I have three batteries. Two deep cycle for domestic use, and one car battery to start the engine. I want to remove the chance of my forgetting to manually switch things over once Im under way.

Battery Management.

On my last boat I fitted an ADVERC system with a spliting diode. Recently I read about a sterling product which doesnt entail changing the regulator on the alternator, seems to be much easier to install, and is very much cheaper!

They say thy gets nowt for nowt. But what do you think dear friends?

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dick_james

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Both sterling and adverc override the alternator regulator and both need to get relevant parts of the alternator to do so as far as I am aware. I found that the sterling unit overcharged the batteries causing them to fizz and lose electrolyte. The sterling blurb seems to take pride in this. I had to reduce to charge voltage. IMHO stick to the adverc, never heard a bad word about 'em and plenty of good.

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LORDNELSON

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I have no experience of Sterling but have used Adverc for thee years and it has been very good. The Adverc staff were very helpful during installation and on the few occasions since then answering my odd queries. Has been 100% reliable up to now.

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halcyon

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Simple solution is a voltage controlled relay between the battery banks, allows the engine to be charged to a preset level before engaging the service battery. Check what the alternator is regulating at, if it's around 14.4 volt you will not see much improvement in adding an additional regulator, changing the alternator internal reg would be a cheaper option if you have low output. Adding blocking diodes causes the low voltage, which you then buy a smart regulator to get correct, a good relay systems will have little volt drop, around 0.04 volt.

Brian

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charles_reed

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Adverc

Since about 1999 the Adverc system has allowed reversion to the in-alternator regulator without any modification, however you have to have a feed direct from the field-coil, which is a fairly commonplace variation on standard alternators.

The main difference between the Sterling and Adverc systems,l as I understand it, is that the latter has a temperature sensor to the main battery bank to ensure batteries are not being "cooked" whilst the Sterling relies entirely on voltage sensing.

As you say yourself - you get what you pay for, in this case outstanding pre- and after-sales service from Adverc.
I think that's worth a lot.
I've used Adverc since '92 and wouldn't change, even if the sterling was technically superior (which it ain't) for that reason.

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pvb

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The others didn\'t understand your question....

Your question was about the Sterling Split Power Amplifier which, as you say, doesn't need any special field connection on the alternator, and also incorporates the function of a diode splitter. This is quite a new product, and it may be a very good one - it certainly sounds very clever, and you can add temperature sensors to it for added safety. However, it's too early to say whether it will deliver all the stated benefits reliably. If you feel in a pioneering mood, it could well be worth a try. After all, if you have problems with it you can always get a refund and go and buy an Adverc!

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andyball

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Re: Adverc

I think sterling do a "pro" model which includes battery temp.monitoring (& presumably chnages charge voltage accordingly?). Seen <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.eveshamboatcare.co.uk/product.asp?dept_id=24&sku=30>here</A>

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A

angelsson

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Would recommend you see 'How to set your boat on fire' pages 1 to 6
The contributions there have opened my eyes to the problems one can encounter.

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Re: Adverc

Yes they do, Unfortunately with the Adverc should the temperature sensor thermistor become damaged or disconnected, the alternator will go to full uncontrolled output immediately. Since this thermistor is in the white lead which comes in the pre-wired loom it will end up in the engine compartment if you just fit it as supplied. Even if you extend the lead to reach the batteries in say a saloon locker, it still will only give battery COMPARTMENT temperature not battery temperature. Adverc do warn you of this possible failure and the remedy is to pull the square connector off their black box unit. Problem is of course you won't know it's happened until your alternator gets to the point of damage or your batteries are boiling. with either Sterling model (my new "Pro" model is sitting here on my desk) there are warning lights on the unit - which can be sited outside the engine compartment if you don't want to go to the expense of the optional remote panel to show any malfunctions before they do damage.

Another limitation of the Adverc is that it runs a 40 minute fixed cycle after start up, repeats this up to twice and then goes to float. With a well discharged battery bank of say 280Ah this is insufficient time to fully recharge which somewhat defeats the reason for having any sort of advanced controller, don't you think?

IOM the Sterling wins on all counts since it controls and monitors the whole charging process until 100% (or as near as your battery condition allows) charging. The Adverc works on a timer and if the battery isn't charged - too bad! Why buy old technology when the same money can get you something up to date? Free world though isn't it?

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion
 
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ARR -yer cud....

but you'm more likely to get your refund in Groats!

Ha Ha

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion
 

davehu

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Re: Adverc

Don't agree about the Adverc cycling, Adverc state that it is 4 x 20 minute cycles followed by 40 minute break. It then repeats as often as neccessary to acheive a full charge. With the cycles you quote full charge would never be acheived and that is not the case.

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Re: Adverc

Actually, unless there's something wrong with my arithmetic the twenty minute cycles (my mistake) still aren't enough to fully charge a battery, although a long period of running at the float voltage which it then drops to might eventually get you there. Fine if you're a motoring man but since most sailing people will have the engine off within an hour or so (OK Nige. three minutes in your case) or want running for charging purposes to be worthwhile (OK bore glazing but pulling against the ropes is OK) they need something with a better charging curve. IMO that means the Sterling.

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion
 

Achilles

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Re: Adverc

This is what the Adverc web site states 'The cycling programme is normally: 5 minutes @ 14.0 volts, followed by 15 minutes @ 14.4 volts. After four 20 minute cycles, there is a 'rest period' of up to 40 minutes i.e. at the lower voltage, depending on the battery state-of-charge and electrical duty-cycle'.

The rest period is up to 40 minutes, dependent on the state of charge. But even so I read that as saying it's charging at 14.0 volts during the rest period (at the lower voltage).

Hope this helps.


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Re: Adverc

Because this was unclear from the Adverc installation instructions I rang Adverc and spoke to their boss. He told me that it returns to "float" voltage which I took to be around 13,4 -13.8. I don't care what antone else fits, that's their choice but I've gone to the trouble of returning my Adverc and now have a Sterling and I based that decision on the research I have done and the application to which I will put the device and the environment in which it will operate. I'm not advocating that everyone rushes out and makes one Irishman rich!

Like I was thinking of buying a rather nice MGR V8 with only 6000 miles on the clock but instead I've ordered an up to the minute new car. Why have advances in technology if you don't take advantage of them?

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion
 

pvb

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Yes...

The Adverc drops back to around 14.0v for up to 40 minutes, then starts the whole cycle again. If you think about it, the Adverc works in parallel with the alternator's own regulator, so it can only increase the alternator voltage, not reduce it. The "float" level of around 14.0v is actually the alternator's standard output setting.

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