Battery charger alternative location

[ithet]

My Dolphin All-in-one shorepower/charger unit seems to have died a death. It's measly 10a output was a bit low for my 270Ah domestic + 75Ah start anyway. So a new consumer unit and separate charger is now needed. This is on a Beneteau 331 where the unit was positioned well forward under the chart table, with the rear cabin mounted batteries being fed from a pair (plus neg) of AWG8 wires with a 5m cable run.

I realise that a replacement 20-30a charger will require heavier wire, and I am thinking that it would be more sensible to re-position the charger close to the batteries with the longer run being the less heavy mains cable from the new consumer unit? I like the Victron chargers, but as the new position will mean it goes in under the rear berth (or less desirably the engine bay?) I am looking at the IP65 or IP67 range - the single output would not be a problem as I have a VCR. I would appreciate any thoughts/pitfalls with he above.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

My Dolphin All-in-one shorepower/charger unit seems to have died a death. It's measly 10a output was a bit low for my 270Ah domestic + 75Ah start anyway. So a new consumer unit and separate charger is now needed. This is on a Beneteau 331 where the unit was positioned well forward under the chart table, with the rear cabin mounted batteries being fed from a pair (plus neg) of AWG8 wires with a 5m cable run.

I realise that a replacement 20-30a charger will require heavier wire, and I am thinking that it would be more sensible to re-position the charger close to the batteries with the longer run being the less heavy mains cable from the new consumer unit? I like the Victron chargers, but as the new position will mean it goes in under the rear berth (or less desirably the engine bay?) I am looking at the IP65 or IP67 range - the single output would not be a problem as I have a VCR. I would appreciate any thoughts/pitfalls with he above.

Good idea to keep the 12volt charging cables as short as possible. I would avoid the engine compartment if at all possible, heat as much as anything, give it a bit of ventilation!
Plenty of the IP22 ones fitted around in boats with no problem. However, If you are happy with with the higher rating, up to you. I would say IP65 more than enough.
They are good reliable, well proven products so what choice best suits you really.

 

[Tranona]

I have just installed similar and worked on the same principle of keeping cable runs short. I only have 2 mains circuits, one for the sockets and the other for the battery charger which has its own socket. I have space on the CU for a third if I ever fit a calorifier. I only have a single output 15A charger which is wired direct to the 190Ah house bank. The start really does not need a mains charge although I do have a trickle charger permanently connecting the start to the house. I also keep an 8A smart charger on board should I ever want to charge the start battery, but it is mainly to keep the bow battery topped up in the winter. It is normally charged by a B2B from the start battery.

All simple and effective.

 

[PaulRainbow]

My Dolphin All-in-one shorepower/charger unit seems to have died a death. It's measly 10a output was a bit low for my 270Ah domestic + 75Ah start anyway. So a new consumer unit and separate charger is now needed. This is on a Beneteau 331 where the unit was positioned well forward under the chart table, with the rear cabin mounted batteries being fed from a pair (plus neg) of AWG8 wires with a 5m cable run.

I realise that a replacement 20-30a charger will require heavier wire, and I am thinking that it would be more sensible to re-position the charger close to the batteries with the longer run being the less heavy mains cable from the new consumer unit? I like the Victron chargers, but as the new position will mean it goes in under the rear berth (or less desirably the engine bay?) I am looking at the IP65 or IP67 range - the single output would not be a problem as I have a VCR. I would appreciate any thoughts/pitfalls with he above.

Blue Smart IP22 Charger - Victron Energy

Unless you wet the bed a lot, it'll be OK under the berth

Unless the engine room gets very hot, it'll go there too.

 

[BabaYaga]

If the charger has a fan, as most over 10 or 15A do, it can be a good idea to install it at some distance away from where you normally sleep, if you are sensitive to noise.

 

[PaulRainbow]

If the charger has a fan, as most over 10 or 15A do, it can be a good idea to install it at some distance away from where you normally sleep, if you are sensitive to noise.

Fair point, but the Victron IP22 chargers are incredibly quiet.

 

[ithet]

Blue Smart IP22 Charger - Victron Energy

Unless you wet the bed a lot, it'll be OK under the berth

Unless the engine room gets very hot, it'll go there too.

Thanks Paul that's helpful. I was thinking if there's condensation or maybe some runoff from the stern gland that can sit in that area the IP65 unit might be a little more protective. Is there any disadvantages with the IP65 unit though - software seems the same?

If the charger has a fan, as most over 10 or 15A do, it can be a good idea to install it at some distance away from where you normally sleep, if you are sensitive to noise.

Well that is the difference I see between the Victron units - the IP22 has a fan. But it also has a night mode to switch it off!

 

[Buck Turgidson]

I have the IP67 17A. It's small silent and just works.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Thanks Paul that's helpful. I was thinking if there's condensation or maybe some runoff from the stern gland that can sit in that area the IP65 unit might be a little more protective. Is there any disadvantages with the IP65 unit though - software seems the same?



Well that is the difference I see between the Victron units - the IP22 has a fan. But it also has a night mode to switch it off!

If you need the extra protecting the IP65 is OK, as would the IP67 one.

 

[ithet]

Cheers, my worry with the IP67 is that it does not have a replaceable internal fuse. Anyway, it seems the consensus is that I should re-position rather than run a long heavy battery wire.

 

[jwfrary]

An actively cooled unit, will have a better continuous output, although in practice it's probobly much for muchness.

You could also consider a model with v sense which overcomes the issues of voltage loss on longer wiring runs