Balancing Plastic Laminate

Ian_Rob

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I making an approx 350 mm x 300mm panel that will have a cut-out for a panel mounted chartplotter at my nav station. It will be made from 15mm moisture resistant MDF and faced and edged with a 0.8mm thick plastic laminate. Do you think I will get away without having a balance laminate on the inside face?
 
My understanding of veneering & laminating is that it's the glue that contracts & causes the warping.
I think 15mm will distort if not balanced but that the balancing material needn't be the same as the facing material if you don't have enough of the later.
I've only ever seen 30mm board veneered without a balancing veneer.
 
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Not sure why you want to use MDF? An plexiglass plate, about 10mm, appears safer and is easy to cut.
 
Not sure why you want to use MDF? An plexiglass plate, about 10mm, appears safer and is easy to cut.

Perhaps but I am trying to match the existing cabinetry using a laminate that matches the colour and finish of panels elsewhere in the nav station. I also want it to be opening (on hinges) so that I can easily access the microSD slot of the chart-plotter and other electronics behind the panel.
 
£10 says they don't, no reason that properly sealed & cut-in, the board will last for ages.
One thing I have learnt is that the highest quality marine plywood last a lot longer than the cheapest marine grade ply. In my opinion there is no place on a yacht for MDF. Use the best materials or you will be doing the same job again in the future with the best materials anyway?
 
One thing I have learnt is that the highest quality marine plywood last a lot longer than the cheapest marine grade ply. In my opinion there is no place on a yacht for MDF. Use the best materials or you will be doing the same job again in the future with the best materials anyway?
Of course you're right, some materials are more suitable than others but that wasn't the question. While MR MDF won't last forever if its done well then it'll still be there doing its job (not structural nor critical, for years to come).
Maybe I was too focused on the original question & should have proposed alternatives but there's no need to tell someone that their work will fall to bits in days when that's patently untrue, seems to be a unnecessarily mean spirited
 
I have used MD MDF in a lot of shop fronts for clients, who would have crucified me if it had failed. The shop fronts would have been doused in water every time it rained. A panel in a boat is just subjected to a bit of damp. I would suggest that the biggest factor aginst its use would be weight. However, the OP is only fitting a small panel.
MDF is compressed & the core is generally softer than the outer faces. This is not so prevalent on MR MDF though, but more so on some makes. I used to specify Medite as a prefered manufacturer, but that was 23 years ago & things change. For this reason screws into the end of the panel are not so good, unless there is a stout lipping to screw to. I would suggest any hinges be face fitted.
The balancing veneer need not be the same as the face, For economy a cheaper thinner finish would be the norm. but one is advised. One avoided gluing to MR MDF due to the greasy surface so better if a facing could be screwed. But with a veneer this is not possible. Preparation is important. I doubt that an iron on plastic laminate edging ( if that is what the Op is suggesting) will last for long. A wood one, pinned & glued, would be my preferred option.
 
Of course you're right, some materials are more suitable than others but that wasn't the question. While MR MDF won't last forever if its done well then it'll still be there doing its job (not structural nor critical, for years to come).
Maybe I was too focused on the original question & should have proposed alternatives but there's no need to tell someone that their work will fall to bits in days when that's patently untrue, seems to be a unnecessarily mean spirited
The only person who said it would fall apart in days was you. I suggested using the best materials available. MDF certainly doesn't fit the catagory of best materials available for use on a boat. A window leak or a hatch leak could cause tremendous damage to inappropriate materials. Not so with the likes of Bruynzeel ply for example. It's only a matter of time
 
The only person who said it would fall apart in days was you. I suggested using the best materials available. MDF certainly doesn't fit the catagory of best materials available for use on a boat. A window leak or a hatch leak could cause tremendous damage to inappropriate materials. Not so with the likes of Bruynzeel ply for example. It's only a matter of time

No, I'm sorry, it was a different contributor who said the hinges would fall off, a comment that I think is mean spirited.
I'm actually agreeing with most of what you said.
 
I making an approx 350 mm x 300mm panel that will have a cut-out for a panel mounted chartplotter at my nav station. It will be made from 15mm moisture resistant MDF and faced and edged with a 0.8mm thick plastic laminate. Do you think I will get away without having a balance laminate on the inside face?


Mounting a chart plotter at the navigation table is a schoolboy error, everyone knows you should have an ipad in your back pocket so it is available at times of crisis, on the lavatory etc, :sleep: :giggle:


More seriously, your small piece of MDF is fine, some newer boats have interiors full of it. I agree with the others however counter veneer it.............though, as the middle is going to be cut out, I might personally be tempted not to, just to see what would happen. Probably nothing


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