Back to sailing issues – To A/F or not to A/F

[Guest]

The boat has been in the water for a year now, tucked nicely away up a river, so sat for at least 80% of the time in fresh water. I beached her on the last spring for a pressure wash, scrub and A/F, but was surprised to find only a few small barnacles and a very thin coating of ‘slime’.

So the question is - should I not bother with the backbreaking and expensive task of Anti-fouling, and instead, just dry her out two or three times a year for a pressure wash?

 

[Guest]

You don't say if it is a sailing boat or a motor boat (Higher speeds and harder antifouling) I'm no expert but think it depends on the strength and thickness of the antifouling. Is it one of the ablative types which is "self polishing' which has its lifespan shortened by scrubbing. If the pressure washing merely takes off a very thin top layer then yes do that, but watch out for significant removal of antifouling by the power washer.

I painted the antifouling on my boat in two coats with the first coat in red and the second in black. This way I can tell when the antifouling is getting thin and needs replacing.

 

[Guest]

More info

Its a sailing boat. Dont know what A/F was on, as it was on when I got it. I too alternate colours. This time I only put on one coat where I could get to (didnt do between the bilge plates, thought I would leave that as a 'test area' to check the theory).

 

[Guest]

Is it fair to assume...

..that the chemistry expires before the material does.

Like NigelB my erodable International A/F went on winter 99 and has been in the water continuously since, with one dry-out which allowed me to clear the slime. I am tempted to continue to dry out periodically to scrub off until I have worn the existing erodable A/F completely away and then go for one of the hard type of A/F coatings instead. Part of the thought process was the inevitability of a change in legislation in the next few years, and the fear of having multiple layers of crusty old stuff to remove at that point.

Anyone else scrubbed and scubbed until it has all gone?

Does it's properties worsen before it has all gone?

What are the hard shiny coatings like at preventing fouling, and how often do they need a scrub?

 

[Guest]

Re:Hard shiney coatings

My understanding is that they are mainly produced for higher speed boats, both for power and to a lesser extent racing yachts. This "hard" surface is so that the water does not wear the "softer" antifouling used on sailing boats as quickly. I think the "softer" sailing antifouling is more effective but it all depends on the biocide in th paint.

 

[Guest]

Re: More info

If you can alternate between fersh and sea water then you will kill anything that grows on the hull and it will drop off of its own accord.

 

[Guest]

Re: More info

If you can alternate between fresh and sea water then you will kill anything that grows on the hull and it will drop off of its own accord.

 

[Guest]

Where do you find this fersh water? nm

nm

 

[Guest]

A question about bottom growth

We keep our boat in a tidal river about 3 1/2 miles from Long Island Sound in CT. As such the water is brackish (a mixture of fresh and salt). I've found that the folks in our cove get more hard growth and less soft growth than boats kept in straight salt water. Have you had the same experience in Europe? I don't know if this normally occurs or if it's a result of the large numbers of seed oysters found in our river.

 

[Guest]

Re:Hard shiney coatings

"Hard racing" A/F's are intended to be burnished to the ideal surface for reducing drag. Ther are not erodable at all. Ship type erodable A/F's are similar to the yacht ones but harder because of the higher speeds. Two different things, really.

"Hard racing" types are also recommended for use on boats which spend the winter in mud berths, because the "concretion" which adheres to soft A/F/s and is the very Dickens to remove does not apparently adhere to them.

Alas you cant put hard racing over a soft type - it requires full removal first.....which I am meant to be doing this season....

 

[Guest]

Re:Hard shiney coatings

It might be a good idea for me to switch to the 'Hard stuff' as there is a constant flow over the hull from the river.

 

[Guest]

Full removal and conversion.

Anyone scrubbed it all off.

My bottom was epoxied winter 99/00 and has just two layers of erodable A/F.

Any ideas how many dry-outs-and-scrubs before the bottom starts to show through.

Just as important, how often may it need doing - 'specially as it gets thinner.

Then, how much prep. for applying hard racing type, what chance doing it between tides (several if necessary).

Finally, anyone know how often it will need scrub once converted. Aspire is based in Lymington.