Azi 39 prop anode fixing screw

[rafiki_]

Loctite blue is likely 243 which is medium strength and will tolerate mild surface oil contamination, whereas 242 won't tolerate oil. The next up is 270 which is green, if you use 270 there is a possibility you will not undo it even when you want to.

If you want added security then using loctite 243 plus a split washer is about as much as you can do.

Thanks Trevor. Lock washer then. Problem is, I guess the clamping load goes when the anode erodes?

 

[vas]

Thanks Trevor. Lock washer then. Problem is, I guess the clamping load goes when the anode erodes?

definitely P.,

when I replace my shaft anodes, the bolts are just moving about (but they have locknuts...)
Talking about shaft anodes, why not add shaft anodes as well? This way the eroding on the prop anodes will be slower and enough for the annual liftout

cheers

V.

 

[rafiki_]

definitely P.,

when I replace my shaft anodes, the bolts are just moving about (but they have locknuts...)
Talking about shaft anodes, why not add shaft anodes as well? This way the eroding on the prop anodes will be slower and enough for the annual liftout

cheers

V.

Vas, I think I am going for the less complex dangle a loose one over the side connected to the shaft when moored route. I can keep an eye on erosion rates without having to lift.

Mine has a screw rather than nut and bolt, so locknut not possible. Probably a more robust fixing would be to have the anode on a stainless steel sleeve, that the screw could clamp against. Thereby when the anode erodes, the sleeve remains, with the clamping load?

 

[superheat6k]

So the issue here is that the bolt de-tensions when the anode corrodes away. How about replacing the bolt with a stud, wind this in tight with some 243, and lock the anode on with a nyloc nut ?

 

[Portofino]

So the issue here is that the bolt de-tensions when the anode corrodes away. How about replacing the bolt with a stud, wind this in tight with some 243, and lock the anode on with a nyloc nut ?

Correct
Your sugestion may cause issues prop changing .
You need to be able to get the main prop bolt off with a special tool /socket that fits over .

A stud sticking out --supose ( after removing the loose anode ) you could lock off two nuts and try anti clock wise stud removal ?
Also as the anode loosens as it corrodes doing its job ,it roughs up -so in reverse -anticlockwise on the port prop the nylonic nut may get some grip and start to unwind the stud .

Thing is for me I carry spare props , nuts ,anodes and the anode bolts .

So it might be possible in a calm sandy bottom anchorage for two blokes to change a prop insitu.
Tying a fender to it for bouysncy ?

Thinking about it --and reading the "medium " blue loctite 243 instructions "-sake well " --perhaps I have not applied the stuff correctly ? Or waited 24 hrs --dunno ?

Then some time later while cleaning the props noticed a loose anode --then tighten up the hex -Allen bolt ,but breaking the bond assuming the stuff worked in the first place .
Once broken starting a cycle of for ever having to nip up every month or so ,The port side which gets a lot of reverse thrust starts to unwind .As mentioned I have lost the P anode twice ,once each Y I,ve changed the anodes .

So maybe it's best NOT to nip em up for fear of breaking the bond ?

Or fitting a split washer or small SS helical spring .

Boat ,s due out for annual early May --so time to think

 

[superheat6k]

Correct
Your sugestion may cause issues prop changing .
You need to be able to get the main prop bolt off with a special tool /socket that fits over .

A stud sticking out --supose ( after removing the loose anode ) you could lock off two nuts and try anti clock wise stud removal ?
Also as the anode loosens as it corrodes doing its job ,it roughs up -so in reverse -anticlockwise on the port prop the nylonic nut may get some grip and start to unwind the stud .

Thing is for me I carry spare props , nuts ,anodes and the anode bolts .

So it might be possible in a calm sandy bottom anchorage for two blokes to change a prop insitu.
Tying a fender to it for bouysncy ?

Thinking about it --and reading the "medium " blue loctite 243 instructions "-sake well " --perhaps I have not applied the stuff correctly ? Or waited 24 hrs --dunno ?

Then some time later while cleaning the props noticed a loose anode --then tighten up the hex -Allen bolt ,but breaking the bond assuming the stuff worked in the first place .
Once broken starting a cycle of for ever having to nip up every month or so ,The port side which gets a lot of reverse thrust starts to unwind .As mentioned I have lost the P anode twice ,once each Y I,ve changed the anodes .

So maybe it's best NOT to nip em up for fear of breaking the bond ?

Or fitting a split washer or small SS helical spring .

Boat ,s due out for annual early May --so time to think

Loctite works by anaerobic action, i.e. when there is no oxygen the product solidifies. The reaction is more for less instant when the nut or bolt concerned is done up. This is why a new bottle of Loctite is only ever half full. So once it is broken to undo is doesn't tighten and lock a second time.

An M10 thread will take a fair amount of pressure so if a dimple were turned into the end of the stud then I can't see why a standard puller could not be used, or as suggested at prop removal time then simply extract the stud using two nuts locked together.