Slow_boat
Well-Known Member
The two case on the wheel (drive unit and the one on the wheel) keep un-clipping and keep falling apart. Also, the clutch has to be held on with a bungee.
Any solutions, anyone?
Any solutions, anyone?
Autopilot ST4000 (wheel steering)
- Thread starter Slow_boat
- Start date
Appleyard
Well-Known Member
The 2 parts (drive ring and back plate) are held in place by the rollers (I seem to remember that there are 7 of these) ,inside the unit. It is possible that one or more of the rollers has come loose , or the mounting pedestals have broken off, You need to take the unit off and open it up. It is fairly straightforward to do. Re the clutch.. you will probably see the problem when you open up.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Yes, buy an autopilot that is up to the job!
AH4000 is notorious for failing clutch, gears stripping and other issues.
Think about it, small motor, plastic teeth, long belt driving the wheel which has to overcome all the resistance and any slack in the steering cables to the rudder.
AH4000 is notorious for failing clutch, gears stripping and other issues.
Think about it, small motor, plastic teeth, long belt driving the wheel which has to overcome all the resistance and any slack in the steering cables to the rudder.
Appleyard
Well-Known Member
OH?....Ours is 20 years old and still going strong. only issue was a new drivebelt 3 years ago.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Feel blessed
Other products - washing machines, cars, have a reputation for being unreliable, that is not to say that every one of that product is unreliable.
johnphilip
Well-Known Member
Ours has always needed a bungee hooked on to keep the clutch engaged, this despite several inspections of the works. i
It also tended to drag when the clutch was released but this I did solve with filing off some plastic to allow the clutch to release further.
prv
Well-Known Member
Agree with LadyInBed that it's a bit pikey - the clutch in particular is a standard problem, boats are often seen with a length of bungee or loop of line strategically positioned to hold the lever closed. Slightly puzzled about the case halves separating - I'm fairly sure ours was firmly held together by the screws in the spoke clamps. Maybe you have a Mark 1 (we had a Mark 2) and this is different between the two versions?
Anyway, if you can stretch to it, a below-decks drive is miles better. Most of the older brain boxes will drive them, and I was able to get a lightly-used ex-demo drive for £450
Pete
Anyway, if you can stretch to it, a below-decks drive is miles better. Most of the older brain boxes will drive them, and I was able to get a lightly-used ex-demo drive for £450
Pete
Appleyard
Well-Known Member
I think the mk 1and2 are similar, and the 2pcs are held together by the rollers. If the screws on the spoke clamps held them together,surely they would not be able to move seperately?
johnphilip
Well-Known Member
Are you saying that the the head from my ST 4000 (Mk.2 I think) should operate a below deck drive?
prv
Well-Known Member
I don't know - I was thinking about the ones with separate brain boxes, in my case the S1. It was installed with a wheel drive, but capable of working a linear drive instead.
I've had a quick google, and there seem to have been a number of different systems sold under the ST4000 name. However, at least one of them has clutch connections on the back. Wheel and tiller drives don't have electric clutches, only below-decks ones, so that's a clue that perhaps it can.
Pete
jwilson
Well-Known Member
Mk I black wheel drive or Mk II grey one?
skip50
Well-Known Member
jwilson
Well-Known Member
Don't know about the Mk I but on the Mk II the three wheel clamps hold the two parts of the drum together - there are just locating lugs to position them together till the clamps are done up.
Slow_boat
Well-Known Member
Black plastic, so I guess it's a Mk 1.
It was a bit wearing hand steering from Dartmouth to St Peters Port (16hrs) into a chop.