Autopilot fitting

I'm not sure that your comment was meant to be a reply to my previous comment but what I was getting at is the underwater shape of a yacht will dictate what sort of autopilot is required- long keel/fin keel, balanced rudder/keel mounted rudder, ballast differences...
Sorry for the confusion. My information was meant to be directed to the first post but I failed to include the quote?
 
It's generally based on boat size and weight- not hull or keel configuration. However some old boats had notoriously heavy helms (eg Gypsy Moth) so if borderline on size worth going next size up.

I prefer to take expert advice rather than a layman's "general" advice. :D

"Matt Fries, B&G’s business acquisition manager, advises that customers should also take into account the design and sailing characteristics of their boat when selecting a drive. “A 40-footer with a full keel and an aft-hung barn-door rudder might require a more powerful drive than a 50-footer of the same displacement that has a more balanced rig/keel configuration and a more modern rudder design,” he says.

Modern Sailboat Autopilots


Surely intuition would tell anyone that? :rolleyes:
 
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I am about to purchase a below deck autopilot system to connect to my n2k network. I have decided on the Simrad nac 3 system as I already have b&g plotter and triton screens. I have still to decide on which linear drive.

The boat is a Beneteau Oceanis 440 with wheel steering. At the back of the wheel there is a cog engaging on a length of chain which has steel cable attached to either end, these cables pass through blocks and terminate on the rudder quadrant.

This issue I have is, should I connect the drive unit directly to the quadrant which has an existing hole dead ahead position, or should I have a steering arm fabricated to facilitate connection to the rudder stalk. The rudder stalk is 60mm diameter and appears to be made of fibreglass...would have expected stainless steel.
You probably got a type 2 motor on that boat . Same as my Moody 42 , the motor arm is fittered on the steering Quadrant , a hole is drilled in the quadrant where the arm fitting is bolted on to .

I'm just up grading mine to a raymarine EV 400 sail which is the right AP for my size boat and your too .
 
Yes, as I said, length and max displacement are the factors which autopilot manufacturers list in terms of the suitability of their products. I've never seen an autopilot manufacturer stating that long keel/fin keel boats need different autopilots, which is what you posted.

Your link, by the way, is very much "autopilots for dummies" but also only mentions length and displacement.


What I am saying is that length and displacement of a yacht are poor criteria for use in selecting a suitable autopilot.

Matt Fries, B&G’s business acquisition manager, advises that customers should also take into account the design and sailing characteristics of their boat when selecting a drive. “A 40-footer with a full keel and an aft-hung barn-door rudder might require a more powerful drive than a 50-footer of the same displacement that has a more balanced rig/keel configuration and a more modern rudder design,” he says.

This article is worth reading
Modern Sailboat Autopilots
 
You probably got a type 2 motor on that boat . Same as my Moody 42 , the motor arm is fittered on the steering Quadrant , a hole is drilled in the quadrant where the arm fitting is bolted on to .

I'm just up grading mine to a raymarine EV 400 sail which is the right AP for my size boat and your too .
I havent bought anything yet. I am asking is it acceptable to bolt the drive unit directly onto the hole on the quadrant as I have read conflicting advice online
 
What I am saying is that length and displacement of a yacht are poor criteria for use in selecting a suitable autopilot.

They're the criteria which autopilot manufacturers generally quote, as others have also tried to explain to you.

Tell us, which autopilot did you fit?
 
I havent bought anything yet. I am asking is it acceptable to bolt the drive unit directly onto the hole on the quadrant as I have read conflicting advice online

Yes it is acceptable.

If it was possible to fit a separate tiller arm, that would be preferential, but only because it gives you a second method of steering the boat should the quadrant fail.

I have worked on boats where the drive has been sonnected to the quadrant in some way and has been so for many, many years. I recently fitted a Jefa linear drive to my own boat and there is no way to connect it other than to the quadrant. Having no hole, as you describe, i made a plate that fits inside the quadrant and is through bolted, i'd say the plate actually makes the quadrant stronger. The drive pin is bolted through the plate.
 
That is a good point but not one I can find in any of the manufacturers specs
I have a Beneteau 361 and want to attach a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Drive to the quadrant. Like the B331 there is a standard connection point at the front of the quadarant. The connection point is at a radius of about 8 inches from the centre of the rudder shaft and the T1 installation manual specifies 10 inches radius is required.
Is your quadrant connection point also at an 8 inch radius and is this problematic?
 
I have a Beneteau 361 and want to attach a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Drive to the quadrant. Like the B331 there is a standard connection point at the front of the quadarant. The connection point is at a radius of about 8 inches from the centre of the rudder shaft and the T1 installation manual specifies 10 inches radius is required.
Is your quadrant connection point also at an 8 inch radius and is this problematic?
Mike
I think a lot of people who have commented previously have moved on. We haven't heard from PVB for about a year (not that you'd take his advice anyway):cool:

Maybe start a new thread more specific to your problem? Maybe "Beneteau 361 fitting autopilot advice needed please"? (Something like that)
 
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I am about to purchase a below deck autopilot system to connect to my n2k network. I have decided on the Simrad nac 3 system as I already have b&g plotter and triton screens. I have still to decide on which linear drive.

The boat is a Beneteau Oceanis 440 with wheel steering. At the back of the wheel there is a cog engaging on a length of chain which has steel cable attached to either end, these cables pass through blocks and terminate on the rudder quadrant.

This issue I have is, should I connect the drive unit directly to the quadrant which has an existing hole dead ahead position, or should I have a steering arm fabricated to facilitate connection to the rudder stalk. The rudder stalk is 60mm diameter and appears to be made of fibreglass...would have expected stainless steel.
How you do it might depend on the kind of sailing you plan to do. If you were planning an Atlantic circuit you might want to consider a separate attachment to the rudder stock. This would give you redundancy should the aluminium quadrant fail. UK coastal sailing where you can pick your weather and assistance is more available you might consider connecting to the existing quadrant ok. I have heard of aluminium quadrant failure on trans Atlantic boats where autopilots have been connected.
I am sure there are lots of yachts that have a quadrant connected autopilot that works fine but they will likely not have been tested in big seas and strong winds day after day
 
I have Bene 343 and connected the Jeffa drive direct to the quadrant. The quadrant was made by Lecomble and Schmitt and I contacted them and said fine to connect direct to my model of quadrant.

The radius is shorter than the 10 inch so more force is required by the ram to provide the same force on the rudder with a 10 inch arm. But as my boat is well under max displacement spec of the ram manufacturer it should be fine.

If crossing big oceans a separate tiller arm to the stock would be ideal but did not look possible on my stock.
 
I have a Beneteau 361 and want to attach a Raymarine Type 1 Linear Drive to the quadrant. Like the B331 there is a standard connection point at the front of the quadarant. The connection point is at a radius of about 8 inches from the centre of the rudder shaft and the T1 installation manual specifies 10 inches radius is required.
Is your quadrant connection point also at an 8 inch radius and is this problematic?
I have Bene 343 and connected the Jeffa drive direct to the quadrant. The quadrant was made by Lecomble and Schmitt and I contacted them and said fine to connect direct to my model of quadrant.

The radius is shorter than the 10 inch so more force is required by the ram to provide the same force on the rudder with a 10 inch arm. But as my boat is well under max displacement spec of the ram manufacturer it should be fine.

If crossing big oceans a separate tiller arm to the stock would be ideal but did not look possible on my stock.

The same on my 331 as I mentioned at the top of this thread. Yes the arm length is less than Raymarine spec but the load is very much under than max available. I did consider this issue but the final fit of my drive was done by a Raymarine agent and they were happy.
 

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