2mako
New Member
Very interesting, same questions for sure, thanks Boathook! Any luck in looking under the end cap on your motor?
Autohelm 3000 wiring
- Thread starter 2mako
- Start date
Boathook
Well-Known Member
Tried shifting it yesterday again but the way the wire is held in place ment that the cap didn't move much - again.
Reluctant at present to use too much force as I don't want to wreck what is a working motor! Will try to have another go tomorrow though.
Boathook
Well-Known Member
Boathook
Well-Known Member
I should add that the circuit board seems soldered onto or even to the motor itself.
Daverw
Well-Known Member
Is it possible that the red and black provide full voltage to start the motor spinning allowing torque and then the yellow and blue then switched in to lower speed by dropping voltage via resistors on the small board. later versions could do this via the controller over two wires
2mako
New Member
Daverws idea seems very plausible to me, thanks D! From the picture I added earlier the motor itself on that picture seems to have only two connectors as the basic configuration. These connectors could be soldered to the circuit board on the older versions. From Boathooks picture it looks like the two connectors maybe run through the circuit board and are then soldered on the other side of the circuit board and to the wires.
I think I will try un-soldered the 2 motor connections from the little round circuit board and hopefully I end up with just two motor connections when that circuit board comes off, then use a 2-wire connection from the newer control head that use other means for motor control via just 2 wires.
Big thanks to everyone who contributed in this, especially Boathook who took the time to do actual testing on his own motor. Invaluable!
Cheers guys!
I think I will try un-soldered the 2 motor connections from the little round circuit board and hopefully I end up with just two motor connections when that circuit board comes off, then use a 2-wire connection from the newer control head that use other means for motor control via just 2 wires.
Big thanks to everyone who contributed in this, especially Boathook who took the time to do actual testing on his own motor. Invaluable!
Cheers guys!
Last edited:
philTheEskimo
New Member
Hi 2mako & friends,
Have you resolved your Autohelm issues yet?
About 15 years ago someone gave me a derelict Autohelm 3000 control unit and drive motor and suggested I tinker with it. Wanting to get right down to it I started working on it this evening.
It works! See first pic for my bench arrangement. (It isn't always this well organized.)
Look at the second pic to see the connection from the control unit to the drive motor. There's a 2-prong plug in the control unit. The socket on the drive motor cable is missing. The popsicle stick is pushed between the two live wires to stop shorts. You can see the blue lead at the front and the green behind. Red and yellow are not used.
It seems to be much easier these days to find replacement parts. The wheel drive drum was simply unavailable 5 years ago. I really need the assistance single-handing so it may be worth splashing out on the extras to put all this old kit back to work.
Cheers...
phil
Have you resolved your Autohelm issues yet?
About 15 years ago someone gave me a derelict Autohelm 3000 control unit and drive motor and suggested I tinker with it. Wanting to get right down to it I started working on it this evening.
It works! See first pic for my bench arrangement. (It isn't always this well organized.)
Look at the second pic to see the connection from the control unit to the drive motor. There's a 2-prong plug in the control unit. The socket on the drive motor cable is missing. The popsicle stick is pushed between the two live wires to stop shorts. You can see the blue lead at the front and the green behind. Red and yellow are not used.
It seems to be much easier these days to find replacement parts. The wheel drive drum was simply unavailable 5 years ago. I really need the assistance single-handing so it may be worth splashing out on the extras to put all this old kit back to work.
Cheers...
phil
