Autohelm 1000 needed for spares

[Sjk1000]

Hi all,
I had a working Autohelm 1000 until recently when one of the gears inside broke. In taking it apart, the perished plastic casing around two of the screws came apart, and the orange seal between the two halves of the case somehow became an inch too long (!)

Anyway, as I have the working electronics I'm looking for a replacement casing and internal gears. Does anyone have non-functioning but structurally sound one lying around that they want to sell?

There are two numbers on the back that probably mean something to somebody - 2071 and 81001

Thanks, Steve

 

[ProDave]

I have an A800 that has an electronics fault. I believe they share some common parts but not sure about the actuator mechanism. Photo's and measurements might confirm.

The fault with mine is as soon as you apply power, without pressing any buttons, the actuator runs at full speed outwards and then stalls on the end stop, i.e. the electronics are broken and applying 12V dc to the motor all the time. The actuator, motor, belt and gears appears okay and the case and seals appears okay.

I keep looking for an AH800 with a faulty actuator but working electronics to repair mine but not found one.

If you think it might help I can take photos and measurements and see if anything is of use.

 

[Refueler]

I have an A800 that has an electronics fault. I believe they share some common parts but not sure about the actuator mechanism. Photo's and measurements might confirm.

The fault with mine is as soon as you apply power, without pressing any buttons, the actuator runs at full speed outwards and then stalls on the end stop, i.e. the electronics are broken and applying 12V dc to the motor all the time. The actuator, motor, belt and gears appears okay and the case and seals appears okay.

I keep looking for an AH800 with a faulty actuator but working electronics to repair mine but not found one.

If you think it might help I can take photos and measurements and see if anything is of use.

I have both 1000 and 800 .... it should work as they share same case etc. - just label is different ... as far as I could tell - the mechanical side is same.

I do have a spare 1000 - but that's providing parts to keep my 800 and 1000 going ... sorry.

 

[Ridax]

The fault with mine is as soon as you apply power, without pressing any buttons, the actuator runs at full speed outwards and then stalls on the end stop, i.e. the electronics are broken and applying 12V dc to the motor all the time.

Replacing the 4 large transistors (bdw93 and bdw94?) would fix this, I think. If you have a multimeter with diode tester you could compare that the 2 parts measure similarly in all combinations/directions, but the parts are only £4 in total and easy to replace if you have basic soldering skills, so could just replace them on suspicion.

 

[Praxinoscope]

Finding spares for these is rather like searching for dragons teeth, I have been trying to find a PC board for one for ages, it’sthe only part I need to finish a rebuild of a water logged unit, and being mean I don’t want to pay Raymarine nearly £200 for a new PC.

 

[ProDave]

Replacing the 4 large transistors (bdw93 and bdw94?) would fix this, I think. If you have a multimeter with diode tester you could compare that the 2 parts measure similarly in all combinations/directions, but the parts are only £4 in total and easy to replace if you have basic soldering skills, so could just replace them on suspicion.

I tried that.

I think it's a software fault? As soon as you apply power it beeps continuously (well it did until I removed the beeper) and nothing happens when you press any of the buttons. The beeper is there to emit a short beep to acknowledge a button being pressed. Also probing around with an oscilloscope shows almost no logic activity anywhere on the board.

 

[Hunterlees]

Is this any use to you?
Raymarine autopilot ST1000+ ( tiller pilots , autohelm, ) | eBay

 

[Ridax]

I think it's a software fault? As soon as you apply power it beeps continuously (well it did until I removed the beeper) and nothing happens when you press any of the buttons.

The beep is not a sign of software fault but consistent with the supposed behaviour when the actuator reach the end points and tries to go beyond that (over current).

 

[ProDave]

The beep is not a sign of software fault but consistent with the supposed behaviour when the actuator reach the end points and tries to go beyond that (over current).

I am pretty sure I powered it up with the 4 power transistors out, before trying to replace them, so there would have been no movement of the actuator and no excess current, and still i got a continuous beep.

Service information on these seems non existent.

 

[Ridax]

Ok. Anyhow, my AH 1000 also made a constant beep and burned the transistors and the beep stopped when the transistors were out.

 

[ProDave]

Ok. Anyhow, my AH 1000 also made a constant beep and burned the transistors and the beep stopped when the transistors were out.

Perhaps I will re visit it and try again then.

 

[Ridax]

Perhaps I will re visit it and try again then.

Also verify that you have +5V on the right leg of the heatsinked ic.