Attaching replacement raw water hose from filter to engine

A

agroundagain

Active Member
Joined
31 Dec 2013
Messages
50
Visit site
Hello, as usual, all help appreciated!

I have replaced a leaking suction hose which had a small split at the end attached to the gearbox on my VP2002.

I replaced the hose with a VP hose and attached it with two jubilee clips (the old ones) which are tightened to their maximum but I still have a slight leak which needs to be sorted.

I've seen some commentary that some kind of sealant might fix it. So three questions:

1) Does anyone have a view as to which is the best sealant/mastic etc. to use for such an application?
2) any tips on how to apply to get a good joint?
3) any other ideas for methods to get a good joint?

Thanks
 
If the spigot is smooth clean and the hose is the correct size, i.e. slightly resistant to push over spigot, particularly over the ridges/raised lip, then you will not need anything other than a smear of silicone grease or similar. It sounds as if something is not quite right.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
If the spigot is smooth clean and the hose is the correct size, i.e. slightly resistant to push over spigot, particularly over the ridges/raised lip, then you will not need anything other than a smear of silicone grease or similar. It sounds as if something is not quite right.

Richard
Click to expand...

I agree with Richard. The should be no need for sealant and using it would be a bodge, masking a problem.
 
I learned several 'fixit' tips and tricks from the hugely-experienced Jonathan, of Parker Marine Services, at the Beaulieu Boat Jumble, which eclipsed the very-average and ill-presented PBO 'Ask The Experts' feature nearby. Should the Beaulieu event ruin again next year, JP is the sort of expert who ought to be invited to speak.

Likewise the MD of AllSpars, Andy Postle. A few minutes listening to the answers he gave to a carefully-crafted question has saved me more than the cost of the whole day.

Here's one example.....

Should a raw water pump run dry, as well as potentially destroying the impeller, the considerable heat can/does damage the see-through plastic feed hose ( used by many of us ) where it is clamped to the metal inlet spigot. That then often lets in air, which can defeat attempts to prime the pump adequately, so insufficient water gets pumped through, with consequent further engine overheating. A nightmare to diagnose!

The solution? Have that see-through feed hose from the strainer a few inches over-length. Then, in event of a hotted-up pump body, a couple of inches may be cut off the feed hose and a fresh air-tight and water-tight seal re-established...... after the pump body has cooled down, of course!

The thicker rubber-and-fabric heater hoses used elsewhere are far more robust, apparently, and more resistant to heat damage.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies. I can't see any problem with the spigot and the leak is coming out of the hose end. The hose is the VP thick hose with fibres to strenghten. Will try greasing and some other clips this week, if that fails then it's a call to a pro.
 
smithpatrick99 said:
I replaced the hose with a VP hose and attached it with two jubilee clips (the old ones) which are tightened to their maximum but I still have a slight leak which needs to be sorted.
Click to expand...

When you say you used "jubilee clips (the old ones)" do you mean the nut and bolt type? If that is the case then I believe that is your problem.

"Uniform pressure
Hose ClipJCS’s Hi-Torque stainless steel worm drive hose clamps have been specifically designed for tough and wire reinforced hoses and for when an extra margin of safety and reliability is required.
Our tests show that our worm drive clamps out perform nut and bolt type clamps due to the fact that they tighten more uniformly and offer a consistently higher sealing pressure".

http://www.jcshi-torque.co.uk/worm-drive-clamps-vs-nut-and-bolt-clamps/

AND

Worm drive clip
A well made worm drive clip, the best known of which is the UK manufactured Jubilee® Clip, should provide a vastly superior clamping force as well as a better seal under pressure and a higher tightening torque than a nut and bolt clip

http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE432.htm
 
Last edited:
Yes, raw water goes first to gearbox cooler then pumped to the heat exchanger for the engine.

As for the clips, I replaced old worm drive ones with new worm drive ones that were probably half as broad again (not diameter, i.e. measuring across the 'tape') as the old ones so that is probably the key difference.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top