Attaching fairleads

[mike_k]

What is the best method to fix fairleads to a GRP deck ?
At the stern one of mine is broken and the other is missing !
When I get replacements should they be screwed or bolted ? And what if I can't get to the underneath if they need bolting ?
I've never had to do this before so all advice appreciated.

I know there are several 'small boat' maintenance books out there that probably describe jobs like this - does any one have any recommendations ?

 

[Strathglass]

The answer in generally DONT unless it is a very light craft.

You cannot normally depend on the hull-deck join to hold together under forestay tension.

What size and type is the craft?

Generally the stem fitting is designed to transfer the forestay load onto the hull or other substantal part of the craft. The exact fittings depends on the loadings.

I may be wrong, but I believe that in severe weather it is possible for the peak loading on the forestay to approach the total weight of the craft. If I am wrong, I am sure that someone out there will put me right.

Iain

 

[30boat]

You will have to through bolt and use a very substantial pad underneath to spread the loads.Best material for the pad is solid fiberglass or plywood covered in fiberglass .Be sure to use large washers.

 

[mike_k]

Thanks for the advice, but perhaps I have misled you - by fairlead I meant the blocks to lead the mooring lines through from the cleats. I don't understand where the forestay comes into it.
The existing fairlead at the stern is cracked across the middle. I tried to take it off, but it looks likeit is just screwed to the deck - and the screw just turns without undoing. It doesn't look like it is bolted.
Is it possible to live without them ? There aren't any at the bow ! It's 23ft Islander sloop rig.

 

[petery]

I may be wrong but I thought fairleads are used to guide mooring lines over the gunwhales and therefore would not be subject to the strains you mention. Mine are just bolted to the teak capping.

The other 'fairlead' - sheet leads are used to guide sheets.

I'm sure I will be corrected if 'I've got the wrong end of the stick'

 

[LadyInBed]

The other posts confused me too.
Fixing with mastic and two large self tappers should be OK.
An alternative is to curve a length of stainless over the deck edge, which can be fixed on with mastic and half a dozen small self tappers.

 

[Strathglass]

Yes I picked up the initial posting wrong. Fairly easy to fix new fairleads with self tappers unless you are on a swinging mooring or anchor frequently then you need a strong bow fairlead.

Iain

 

[peterb]

What boat?

What's the boat? Some craft (certainly some Westerlys) use long machine screws through the deck, put nuts on the screws, then cut off the excess thread apparently with a bolt cutter. The resulting mess is then covered up with GRP. The trouble is that the bolt cutter distorts the thread, so that when you try to undo the screw on deck the nut jams on the thread, then turns under the fibreglass. You can usually detect this method by seeiing if there is a bump under the fitting below deck. In my experience the only answer is to cut through the fibreglass below deck until you can get to the nut, then file off the distorted thread and remove the screw while holding the nut in a spanner or socket. The same applies when it's necessary to remove broken stanchion sockets.

 

[Johnjo]

If you cannot unscrew them or get to the nuts without taking the boat
to pieces, What I would do is to gently tap a screwdriver under the fitting
lifting it off the deck far enough to get a hacksaw blade under it ,
then saw through the fastenings holding it down,
When removed tap the old bolts/screws down a little and fill holes with
epoxy, refasten new fitting with self tappers near to old position,
but not on top off, drill fresh holes.
As Isay that is what I would do!

mike

 

[dickh]

Check to see how the originals were put on and duplicate it - excepting though that if they have come off/broken then it might you to through bolt them if you have access to the underneath. Make sure you have a decent Plywood backing pad and large penny washers.
I am just about to fit new fairleads onto my boat, the originals are just screwed into the GRP with self tappers(I think...) and I will do the same with the new ones. I'm pretty sure they are not through bolted. From experience, make sure you drill a proper sized pilot hole - if too small the screw will bind and then break.
My only problem is finding some large countersunk self tappers, but I expect my local chandlery will have some at an extortionate price(you know, sold in a bubble pack of 5, I only need 6, so have to buy 2 packs...)

dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[mike_k]

Thanks for all the replies. I feel much more confident about just using self-tappers if I can't get access to bolt them in.

 

[SimonD]

Dick

I've just replaced mine (J27). They're attached with two long set screws; the nuts are in the anchor chain locker. One of the "standard" sizes of fairlead in aluminium actually has screwholes on the same spacing. How easy is that!

Simon