At what stage do you replace house batteries?

What would you consider 'significant' in the drop in charge .. over the summer they've been around 12.8v - but that's in summer with the solar panel doing it's job...

If all you see is 12.8 they are either knackered, or the solar panel is knackered or far too small for the battery capacity.
 
If all you see is 12.8 they are either knackered, or the solar panel is knackered or far too small for the battery capacity.

I was going from memory. They may have got up to 13 v at some point. The solar panel is new and made a significant change to the setup. It is only 30w though so don't expect it to perform miracles!
The house batteries are knackered. I dont think they were yreated very well before we got them either! They are physically different in size and cant find fault with the dedicated engine battery so we'll replace just those two. But not till the new year
 
To get back to the original question then

"At what stage do you replace house batteries?"

Before you launch next spring!

Keep the engine battery charged by occasionally putting it on charge, leaving it on an automatic charger with a float facility, or even using the solar panel.

If you need to run the house services independently treat that battery in the same way. Otherwise forget it.

Tried a fancy battery charger with "reconditioning" or de-sulphation stages ?
 
You could take them to a battery specialist and get him to put a heavy load tester on them, or maybe borrow one? I borrowed one (100.00€ deposit) in the summer and was surprised that all but 2 of my house batteries were stuffed, although they were holding charge but it dropped significantly when under load.

I read on another forum that heavy load testing should not be done on leisure batteries, which have thinner plates that can distort.
 
When they have been under load for a bit, test the cells with a hydrometer. If they are all about the same SG, then the battery has some life left IMHO. Usually they die when one cell collapses and its SG is way down compared to the rest.
 
I read on another forum that heavy load testing should not be done on leisure batteries, which have thinner plates that can distort.

Good point, but I suspected they were shot before I tested them. I wouldn't have thought they would too much difference to new batteries though?

The deep cycle batteries I bought seem pretty bomb proof now though.
 
I read on another forum that heavy load testing should not be done on leisure batteries, which have thinner plates that can distort.
I have a heavy load tester, it's handbook does not mention this issue. So far it doesn't seem to have adversely effected my 4 x 110 Ah wet lead acid "marine" batteries, first fitted 15.03.2003.

However, I expect them to drop dead at anytime having reached prime old age.
 
I read on another forum that heavy load testing should not be done on leisure batteries, which have thinner plates that can distort.
I think leisure batteries may vary. Some are suitable for occasional use as a starter battery and a CCA is even quoted in the spec. I'd expect it to be OK to heavy load test those.

My present ( Halfords) leisure battery has no indication of a CCA. Its ( Lucas ) predecessor did!

I wonder if the difference between some of them and a starter battery is only the label.
 
A good battery should read over 13.5v and charge beyond 14v. If your batteries are as low as you are saying they should be changed, Mine are only reading 12.6v and wil be replaced in the spring as I don't cruise much between now and then! unfortunately they are expensive and generally the whole bank should be replaced! ouch!

Barry
 
One advantage of having a bank of identical batteries is that when one cell dies, that cell's battery can be disconnected and the remaining batteries can share the load for a while.

Having the same initial capacity with fewer, bigger, batteries in the bank gives fewer options.

I have no idea if - for wet cell batteries - the names leisure, marine, starter mean any differences at all. I suspect vertually none. Now "traction" should mean something different.
 
Short answer

The short answer to the original question as previously stated is before launch next year assuming you do not use the boat in winter. Before doing that however, you should check that the problem is not simply low electrolyte level. I've found that you can mess around desulphonating and recharging but you are only delaying the inevitable. So - bite the bullet and replace them as it is very inconvenient if they let you down especially when you are away from your home port.
I would also recommend that you review your charging arrangements and install a battery isolator (VSR) if you haven't already got one and some kind of charging that doesn't rely on the engine - ie solar or wind.
 
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