Anyone who know how to assamble switch for analog Autohelm 1000 autopilot

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franor

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Hey,

I do not know if anyone could help me out with this one? I noticed that a piece was loose inside my analog Autohelm 1000 (autopilot probably from early 80's) and I opened it. In the process, the Lorlin switch came apart and I'm having a hard time to place the contacts in their right posision

Anyone here at the forum who could advise me on how to reassemble switch correctly? Reading on the forum I noticed that there are some old posts concerning the Autohelm 1000 and the subject but the pictures are no longer available.

I have attached four pictures of the Lorlin switch and I don't know if this could be of help?

I had problems downloading the pictures but I hope these links would work:

IMG-2346.jpg
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IMG-2347.jpg
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IMG-2348.jpg
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IMG-2349.jpg
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Further, the switch has four positions, OFF, Calm, Rouge, and Vane.

Also, in picture 3, in which position should I put the "stopper"?

Regarding picture 4, four contact points fell out of the autopilot but I wonder if there should be only three of them? I noticed that one of the contacts has a slightly different color and I wonder if this one has been left inside the pilot from an earlier repair?

I cross fingers and hope someone can help.

Thanks,
Franor
 
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franor said:
Hey,

I do not know if anyone could help me out with this one?

I cross fingers and hope someone can help.

Thanks,
Franor
Click to expand...

Unfortunately new users cannot post pictures as attachments ( It is so that you cannot post porn etc!) We cannot therefore see them. I think , only think, that you will be able to post links to them if you upload then to a photo-hosting site such as Tinypic, Postimage etc ( but I think you've done something wrong anyway)


However I think you may find the info you require in this old thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?220332

BTW you should be able to find an owners manual on the Raymarine website
 
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Is this any help? I can dismantle it a bit more if you want but maybe not until tomorrow. Click on image for a larger view.

 
Hi Dipper,

Thanks for the picture. Unfortunately, I can't see from this angle where the "stopper" (I don't know the name in English) is placed. From another angle that would be possible, I believe. If you haven't taken the switch apart before, be careful so that the springs or contact doesn't just jump out. Great if you dismantle but not if you risk to have the same issue as me.

Thanks though,
Franor
 
Sorry for the delay. Grandparent duties got in the way!

Here is a photo showing the position of the lug on the switch. It goes in by #4. I don't think I want to dismantle it further in case it all goes ping and then there will be two of us trying to put it back together.

 
Thanks a lot, Dipper! This helps me limit the possibilities. I still hope someone has a manual showing the inside of the switch but in the meantime, i will try to figur out the positions using a multimeter.
 
I don’t think you’re going to find a manual showing the inside of the switch.

From the photos it looks like a three pole four way switch. What looks like an ‘extra’ set of contacts is confusing me.

The switch is assembled so that one of the contacts of this little springy things sweeps the inner solid strip of metal and rotating the switch makes the second contact land on one of the outer contacts. (You can see four of them associated with each inner strip).

The bit you’ve removed can only fit in one place (its indexed with a cut out that matches a blip in the moulding of the body)

Very careful examination should show some witness or wear marks where the spring contacts were located.

If you got hold of the circuit you ‘might possibly’ be able to work out what should go where... but that’s a long shot.

Very careful
 
I did the same thing when I first opened my Autohelm 1000 nearly 40 years ago. You need to prise out the centre plug and undo the collet knob first to release the shaft.
AH1000 ASSEMBLY.jpgAH1000 CIRCUIT.jpgP1010205.JPG
With luck I have attached a circuit, mechanical assembly and photo showing the position of the locating peg that protrudes from the switch.
Reassembling the switch might not be reliable but if you're OK with soldering this looks like the correct one: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/0665203/ The shaft will need to be shortened.
Sorry about the quality of the scans but they are all I have. Let me know if you need any further help.
I have a spare board waiting for my old Autohelm to fail again but I managed to fix it last time by resoldering the power transistors. I now mostly use a Simrad TP30 which seems much better made.
 
Thanks a lot for this. I have tried all positions possible and it's still not working. Could be that there is something other than the switch. Anyone who knows if there is a fuse somewhere on the pilot? I can't see anyone.
 
The fuse should be in your vessel supply so it is easy to change if it blows. To do any further testing you will need a multimeter and a little electronic knowledge to identify the components.
You can check the switch function by confirming that each of the central connectors connects to successive outside pins as the switch rotates. If you look in the link to RS there is a datasheet giving the switch layout on page 4. If there is any doubt about the switch I would replace it - easiest to destroy the switch and unsolder the pins one by one as this is less likely to damage the pcb.
Check that 12V is getting through to the board by referring to the circuit diagram.
Unsolder the motor and check it rotates with 12V applied to the wires.
Check that the power transistors legs have not fractured caused by vibration with the heavy brass heatsinks.
Where are you? If anywhere near South Devon I may be able to give some practical help.
 
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