Anyone re powered from Volvo 2030 to D1-30?

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Venus1

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I might re power my 1998 Volvo 2030. The logical replacement would seem to be the D1-30 (even though I'm told I can't attach it to my existing S120 saildrive, and need to replace that too, with the S130).
I would be interested in any comments from people who have done this.
Is the D1-30 noticeably less or more powerful? Less or more noisy? More economical? Did you keep the same prop?
The D1-30 claims to be lower revving - is this noticeable in practice?
The 2030 needed periodic exhaust elbow replacing and water pump servicing. Is the D1-30 any better for that?
Thanks Volvo owners :)
 
Can't help with a direct comparison, but in terms of lower revs, yes the D1-30 will be running around 300rpm slower than the 2030 for a given power output. I have a D1-30 in my boat, with a saildrive, and it seems fairly smooth and quiet. As mine's only a year old, I haven't delved into the exhaust elbow, etc, but everything looks fairly accessible.
 
Can't help with the comparison, our last boat had a 2003 but the current one a D1 30. We get cruising speed 6.3 kt at 1950 revs in flattish water burning just under 2 litres per hour in a 33 footer and the boat can be pushed to close to 8 kts. when the fuel consumption is more than trebled. However I attribute a lot of this to the VP three blade folder, outstanding prop. The engine is as quiet as any three cylinder but again the compartment is well insulated, but I am sure she is quieter and fairly vibration free. So far (8 years, 1000 hrs) I have had no problems with the electrics and the alternator puts out a good output. I think she has the same American raw water pump as the 2003, I have replaced shaft seals twice because of a tiny water leak developing, it is not hard to do and works. The vacuum valve is a pain, I replace the little kit every time I do the impeller but it persists in dripping slowly at low revs, so I tend to turn the engine off rather than sit at tickover. I still collect about half a litre of water from the vacuum valve using a clear plastic bottle mounted under it every season.
It is by far the best of the three VP engines I have owned, but Perkins in Japan should take the credit for that.

Maintenance is always a bit awkward on any boat engine, on ours the impeller is very low behind a battery box but manageable, the oil filter is on the stbd. side with an access panel from the head compartment, the electrics are on the port side. I have just had to replace a cooling water hose because of chafe but that is something I should have foreseen and dealt with long ago. No problems so far with anything else.
 
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I am wondering why you plan to do this though, a boat diesel like your 2030 surely has at least 20 more years of active life. I know re engining is a popular thing but how many times is it worth the cost and trouble, sails on the other hand??????
 
I just went from the 2040 to the D2-40. Not the same thing but there are some similarities.
The process is pretty straightforward as long as your supplier orders the correct saildrive and not the reverse model as mine did. That adds a lot of work to the swap.
Looking at the upgrade matrix from Volvo you will not even need a conversion kit as I did to adjust the engine bed. Most parts are on the same place as for the old engine. The exhaust elbow is physically the same thing, so expect the same problems there. I have no sailing experience yet as the boat is on the dry but I expect the noise levels much better because of the lower RPMs. Downside is you need a new saildrive (or a different propeller). Upside is then that everything is new.
One thing to take into account is that you will need to beef up the wiring to accommodate the bigger alternator. In my case I also had to replace the charge distributor (diode-block) because of it. I now have replaced all wiring to 35mm2. I don't expect the fuel consumption to be significant less as it is still more or less an old-school engine (not common rail or direct injection) which is good from maintenance point of view. It obviously has been improved relative to the old model, but from what they told me that is more about noise and vibration. The biggest change I could find is the orientation of the cranks on the crankshaft relative to each other for the 3 cylinder models.
You will need a new dashboard as the new model works with more fancy electronics. If you include a voltmeter expect it have funny values at the read out (mine does). The stopping is now done by the push of a button and no longer the mechanical thingy.

Good luck with your choice.

Arno
 
pvb said:
And probably a new gearshift, as there's a neutral interlock needed.
Click to expand...

None on ours. The throttle and gear linkages are completely mechanical and conventional, and there is no switch in the Morse control. I don't even know where you'd connect one.

Pete
 
aluijten said:
A what is needed? In my case I used the existing gear shift cable. No problem whatsoever. Mechanism sits at exactly the same place and uses the same mounting accessorizes.
Click to expand...

Well, mine has a neutral interlock. This is a switch mounted on the gearshift lever mechanism (item 19 in the diagram). I guess it could be retrofitted. Or maybe the engine will work without it. Might it be a requirement of some new infernal EU regulation?

gearshift_zps2z9lstzu.png
 
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Venus1 said:
I might re power my 1998 Volvo 2030. The logical replacement would seem to be the D1-30 (even though I'm told I can't attach it to my existing S120 saildrive, and need to replace that too, with the S130).
I would be interested in any comments from people who have done this.
Is the D1-30 noticeably less or more powerful? Less or more noisy? More economical? Did you keep the same prop?
The D1-30 claims to be lower revving - is this noticeable in practice?
The 2030 needed periodic exhaust elbow replacing and water pump servicing. Is the D1-30 any better for that?
Thanks Volvo owners :)
Click to expand...

I wonder why you would want to replace your engine. It is quite a good one. The exahaust elbow is a problem common to all Volvo Penta engines and thus you will have it also with a D1-30, only with a 2030 you are lucky because it is a popular engine and there are after market stainless steel replacements for only £160. Volvo engineers paint the outside of their elbows in nice green but then put salt water in direct contact with cast iron inside!

I had a 2030, but never had issues with the water pump ...
 
Have just bought a new boat with a D1 30. Old boat had a 2030, but latterly with a 130 drive. The new engine does not seem to be as smooth and quiet as the old one, but that could be the installation rather than the engine. The 2030 was exceptionally quiet, articularly after I insulated the underside of the cockpit floor. At tickover and low revs you could hardly hear it from the helm. It also ran trouble free for over 3500 hours. Excellent engine all round.

The new engine runs around 250 revs lower for given boat speeds. as it has only done 20 hours so far can't comment on longer term issues but nothing to suggest that it will not be as long lasting and reliable - except the nagging doubt about the electronics.

The reason you need to swap the drive as well is because the 130 drive has a different ratio reduction to reflect the lower engine revs. The shaft speed will be virtually the same so you can use the old propeller if you wish. The 130 drive is superior in every way, but you will find your old 120 easy to sell.
 
pvb said:
Well, mine has a neutral interlock. This is a switch mounted on the gearshift lever mechanism (item 19 in the diagram). I guess it could be retrofitted. Or maybe the engine will work without it. Might it be a requirement of some new infernal EU regulation?
Click to expand...

I believe neutral interlocks have been a requirement in the US for many years, to stop small powerboats being accidentally started in gear and throwing people around (because you generally start them with a fair bit of throttle set). I nearly went overboard from a small boat with a dodgy gearbox (lever seemingly in neutral, but box in forward) in exactly this way, a scary moment. Doesn't seem very relevant to a yacht, though.

I wasn't aware there was a connection for a neutral switch on the D1-30 wiring - possibly it's an optional accessory box that can be plugged into the EVC harness?If there is a built-in connection, it would be simply shorted or left open (depending on the normal sense of the switch) if the interlock isn't wanted.

Pete
 
pvb said:
Might it be a requirement of some new infernal EU regulation?
Click to expand...

I love it how many people from the UK blame everything they don't like to the EU...

Having connected the engine myself, I can tell you for sure by default no switch is required to the gear lever. The electronics box has no standard provisions for it. You will need to buy additional wiring to have this in place.
 
aluijten said:
I love it how many people from the UK blame everything they don't like to the EU...

Having connected the engine myself, I can tell you for sure by default no switch is required to the gear lever. The electronics box has no standard provisions for it. You will need to buy additional wiring to have this in place.
Click to expand...

The current model (D1-30F) has EVC control which I understand by default has a neutral interlock. If the OP buys a new engine, presumably it will come equipped in this way, in which case a switch will be needed on the gearshift. It's something the OP will need to ask the supplier about.
 
We have 2020's - the exhaust elbow and seawater pump are a nuisance and a cost - but not so that they encourage the concept of replacing the engines, especially if we would need to change the saildrive as well. At least we know what the problems are and can anticipate the servicing, neither need any great skill, just some patience.

Jonathan
 
Dear Quandary, aluijten, haydude, tranona, prv, pvb, neeves,
sincere thanks for your constructive comments and useful advice - including the questioning of whether I need to re power at all. On balance I will keep my 2030, and manage the elbow and water pump issues.
I will check that link to stainless elbows. Mine tend to block rather than corrode (yes, I try to run the engine hard) but just being less expensive will make replacements easier to deal with.
 
I think they take about 2 times as long to corrode as block. Most people dump when they block but some of us 'clean' mechanically or chemically and next time they block and we clean we find they have so severely corroded they cannot be reused. I have seen no reports that stainless improves the predilection for blocking, so do not get too excited yet, of the original cast item (though that has been the underlying implication and it is much better to be optimistic).

But in defence of Perkins - these engines run for ever, cause little or no issues, if serviced (and I suspect will take a fair amount of abuse) and the only recurring grouses are the water pump and exhaust elbow (and these are redeemable without recourse to too much expense or effort). I'm not sure how the MD series compare with other marine diesels for problems.

There is an opportunity for someone to make cast stainless exhaust elbows in China, they would cost peanuts to make - if you could get the distribution right. My searches for cheap seals have turned up nothing, everyone sells them at a similar price (though I am sure someone in Taiwan will make them) and I cannot find anyone selling just the shaft of the water pump - you need to buy the complete kit.

Jonathan
 
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