Anyone familiar with Sterling Alternator to battery chargers?

[Mikedefieslife]

During a recent trip I noticed that I wasn't getting any charge from the alternator/sterling combo.

I didn't really do much investigation, I assumed that the old alternator was dead, and bought a new one.

I've now installed the new alternator, and again I'm not getting any charge. The Sterling alternator to battery charger just flashes its lights at me.

Strangely though it's not any of the warning lights, it's the voltmeter/battery select lights that seem to come on (the first three) then flash off again (it jumps to all five lights, the last one red, then all lights go out).

I posted a video of what's happening on the Sterling Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/766670724/videos/o.1543604152572133/10162554146450725/?type=2&theater

Sterling weren't kind enough to include this scenario in the manual for the charger. I have contacted Sterling, but research online seems to suggest they have a poor customer service record, so I won't hold my breath.

 

[Graham376]

Does the alternator booster feed the batteries via vsr or split charge diode which could have gone open circuit? What happens to charging if you disconnect the Sterling?

 

[Mikedefieslife]

Does the alternator booster feed the batteries via vsr or split charge diode which could have gone open circuit? What happens to charging if you disconnect the Sterling?

No it's direct to the solo battery bank.

If I connect the alternator directly to the batteries I get about 13v which presumably is just the regular battery voltage (batteries are fully charged), so the alternator isn't putting out. If i test it for AC then I get 6v to 77v

So who knows what's going on. This a brand new alternator.

I wonder if the Sterling system could have gone kaput and destroyed the old alternator, and now the brand new one.

 

[Graham376]

First thing is to remove all cable joints, clean up and refit. Check no loose connections from ignition to alternator, is the ignition warning light on when not running and does it go out when running? Auto electrician can check alternator, no need for another new one.

 

[West Coast]

I have just fitted one of these units, with a sterling splitter unit. I know sterling have a mixed reputation re technical support, my first try was a message to their web page query box, which after 4 months, I have yet to receive any reply! But a week or so after sending the web based message, I phoned the help line and got some very useful help. Problem resolved (faulty splitter unit) which was replaced quickly under warranty.

So - give them a call, but have all the info you can to hand to answer their questions.

 

[Mikedefieslife]

First thing is to remove all cable joints, clean up and refit. Check no loose connections from ignition to alternator, is the ignition warning light on when not running and does it go out when running? Auto electrician can check alternator, no need for another new one.

I ran it this morning when the batteries were down a little so to make sure it would have some good load on it.

It is connected directly to the batteries, and uses a T-like connected from the engine switch panel. The charge warning light does not come on when the engine is running, nor when not running. I know it works though since it did come on when the old alternator had failed.

Testing with an amp meter I can see there are near zero amps, zero DC volts (other those from the battery itself). If i switch to AC and test from the alternator bat terminal to the case it various between 5 and 90. I don't know how reliable that is though.

So definitely seems like this alternator is dead somehow. If not the Sterling unit, then it could have arrived that way.

 

[VicS]

I ran it this morning when the batteries were down a little so to make sure it would have some good load on it.

It is connected directly to the batteries, and uses a T-like connected from the engine switch panel. The charge warning light does not come on when the engine is running, nor when not running. I know it works though since it did come on when the old alternator had failed.

Testing with an amp meter I can see there are near zero amps, zero DC volts (other those from the battery itself). If i switch to AC and test from the alternator bat terminal to the case it various between 5 and 90. I don't know how reliable that is though.

So definitely seems like this alternator is dead somehow. If not the Sterling unit, then it could have arrived that way.

With the A2B unit disconnected and the alternator connected direct, as the Good Lord intended, I would be a bit suspicious if the no charge warning light does not come on when the engine is not running but with the "ignition" switched on.

The warning light often supplies the initial excitation current, although with more modern installations there is often/ usually a second circuit incorporating a (50ohm) resistor ( sometime internal )

You dont say what alternator or engine so cannot look up any details . Maybe that's correct for yours ?????

I dont know what you expected to see from the AC measurements

 

[Mikedefieslife]

With the A2B unit disconnected and the alternator connected direct, as the Good Lord intended, I would be a bit suspicious if the no charge warning light does not come on when the engine is not running but with the "ignition" switched on.

The warning light often supplies the initial excitation current, although with more modern installations there is often/ usually a second circuit incorporating a (50ohm) resistor ( sometime internal )

You dont say what alternator or engine so cannot look up any details . Maybe that's correct for yours ?????

I dont know what you expected to see from the AC measurements

AC would tell me if the internal regulator is shot and the alt is putting out AC instead of DC.

It's a 3GM30. The old alternator was the original 55a Hitatchi unit. The new one is just a (presumably chinese) 80amp copy.

The instrument panel lights are a whole different story. Don't assume the instrument panel works works as intend. The tach doesn't (sensor has the correct 1.6k resistance but does put out 1v), tach bulb doesn't work. Test has failed, oddly the oil pressure light and warning buzzer are all good. The harness is old and has been cut and replaced in various parts. The panel is equally old.

The wires from the panel to the alt though does give off a good solid 13v. So the alt should be getting excited if that is the correct phrase.

 

[Graham376]

I can't see how the Sterling would have knackered an alternator as they are designed to cut out if any fault. With the other problems you mention, my money at the moment would be on a wiring fault and the alternator not getting excited. Try bypassing the panel if you can.

 

[Mikedefieslife]

I can't see how the Sterling would have knackered an alternator as they are designed to cut out if any fault. With the other problems you mention, my money at the moment would be on a wiring fault and the alternator not getting excited. Try bypassing the panel if you can.

I would be inclined to agree, but if the alternator is getting full battery voltage at the T connector, what can stop it getting excited?

One connector is blue and black and leads back to the bulb. Continuity is good. I also traced the red/black wire back this lead back from the T connector to the buzzer, warning lights and ignition switch. For the total run I get 5ohms resistance, which while not perfect should be good enough.