Any Recommendations for a 1000/2000w pure sign wave inverter

I understand Mr Rainbow not wanting to give advice on a very specialised subject to an unknown audience. He does not want to be in any way responsible for an incident.

I have found this thread very interesting. It may be correct or it may not be, so its a case of reader beware.

Neutral earth bonding inverter
 
Andrew_Trayfoot said:
I'd be interested to know what the issues are... without any advice on what to do.


As of now I have no shore power system at all. My current plan is something very simple:

Shore power cable to a galvonic islator then garage type consumer unit.

Bond earth to boat negative.

2 single sockets in gally area (safely away from the sink) for a kettle and a microwave.

Double socket with usb charging ports for other stuff if required.

That will all work fine when away on holiday in marinas. Boat lives on a swinging mooring so would not normally be connected to mains.

I would also like to power the 600w microwave (1000w input) to heat the odd pasty etc (2 to 3 mins max) when out for the day. I will run the engine to mitigate the demand on the battery.

So what is the issue with connecting the very limited shore power system into an inverter when not in a marina?

Potentially I could just have a second socket on an 'extension lead' for use with the inverter/microwave as there is no space in the gally area for the microwave.

I have no other need for 240v when not in a marina...
Click to expand...

The post from CLB sheds some light on the complexities, which are made worse by the bullshit ad's for some of the cheap Chinese inveters on Ebay.

If you have neutral and earth boned at source you can fit a changeover switch and use the inverter to supply all onboard loads, although the battery charger will not be a good idea.

Centre tapped and pseudo centee tapped get a little confusing and some of the cheap inverters are just plain dangerous. So, if all you want is a couple of sockets, do as PVB did, fit your sockets and run the cabling back to the inverter, dedicated for these sockets. Fit an isolator or remote (depending on the inverter) os it isn't powered up all of the time (there is an overhead, even if the inverter isn't used, if it is powered up), it's simple and it just works.
 
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PaulRainbow said:
The post from CLB sheds some light on the complexities, which are made worse by the bullshit ad's for some of the cheap Chinese inveters on Ebay.

If you have neutral and earth boned at source you can fit a changeover switch and use the inverter to supply all onboard loads, although the battery charger will not be a good idea.

Centre tapped and pseudo centee tapped get a little confusing and some of the cheap inverters are just plain dangerous. So, if all you want is a couple of sockets, do as PVB did, fit your sockets and run the cabling back to the inverter, dedicated for these sockets. Fit an isolator or remote (depending on the inverter) s it isn't powered up all of the time (there is an overhead, even if the inverter isn't used, if it is powered up), it's simple and it just works.
Click to expand...
Thankyou very helpful.
Much appreciated.

Andrew
 
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