Any last ideas??

[gonfishing]

hi all
the ongoing saga of THE ENGINE
new impellar
new head gasket
rebuilt head
new fuel pump
new fuel lines
new electrical system
restored back to points and condenser
cylinder head and block 48hr soak in caustic soda
new thermostat
new exhaust upriser

RESULT STILL B****Y overheating over 3000rpm, Have i missed anything?? any ideas that are legal will be followed with zeal
PS Today i start my 18 day holiday doesn't look like i will be exploring the haven
should see SWMBO'S face!!! i am about as popular as a pork chop in a synagogue!!!


<hr width=100% size=1>man made it ,man can repair it, i think??

 

[studgies]

Exhaust manifold? do not know if it is the same as the AQ151 but they are a nightmare for blocking at the outlet end just before the rubber elbow to the outdrive.

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[Divemaster1]

Just a thought....

What does the water intake (presume in drive) look like ? I'm thinking about things that will cause restriction in waterflow from drive up to the impeller, such as the strainer, pipe up and through transom etc.

<hr width=100% size=1>Alf

 

[gonfishing]

tis a new manifold, i also forgot to mention new water hose and bellows fitted and all cleaned at that time !!! still might go with utilising one of the two spare seacocks and fitting to water pump out of desperation !!!!!!!!!!



<hr width=100% size=1>man made it ,man can repair it, i think??

 

[Col]

Down the port side of the engine is a rubber hose connecting incoming seawater to the impellor. I have seen these "flatten" under suction. Get some one to hold engine at 3000rpm in neutral while you look at this hose. You can see it collapse (if that is what is causing your problem) This would obviosly(sp?) cut of the water supply. Worth a check.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/colspics> Cols Picture Album</A>

 

[DavidJ]

Back to start.
What is the temperature range specification and what is the reading you're getting.
David

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[Alistairr]

I think i'm right in saying you are in Swansea?
I know a marine engineer in Swansea marina, why don't you ask his opion, i could PM you his no, If you wish?

Cheers.

Alistair...



<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hamptonandmcmurray.co.uk>Hampton and McMurray</A>

Petrol Rules..

 

[Alistairr]

I think i'm right in saying you are in Swansea?
I know a marine engineer in Swansea marina, why don't you ask his opion, i could PM you his no, If you wish?

Cheers.

Alistair...



<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hamptonandmcmurray.co.uk>Hampton and McMurray</A>

Petrol Rules..

 

[tr7v8]

Ignition timing, or stuck advance & retard on dizzy, compression test to see if their is a prob. Pressure test cooling system via one of the pump head rad caps see if A. it drops or B. it climbs with engine running.
Crack test of block & head or pressure test same test effectively.
Mixture could still be an issue, what colour are the plugs, give it a blast at reasonable revs and cut the ignition, don't let it tick over. Pull a few plugs are they nice and grey or pure white?
Another thought is the raw water pump housing is worn and you're not getting enough water flow.

That'll keep you going for a while.....

<hr width=100% size=1>Jim

Draco 2500

 

[wakeup]

Always stating the bleeding obvious..

Is the temp gauge and sender working properly????

<hr width=100% size=1>...but then I would say that wouldn't I.....

 

[ballabunch]

A couple of things. First thing. What is the spec of your thermostat? The manual for your engine calls for (I think) 51 - 56 degree opening. Standard issue nowadays seems to be 56 degrees and up. I managed to get the correct one from Volspec after a bit of discussion with them. The spec is stamped on the thermostat. Also, are you certain the thermostat is opening fully, ie it works & is not fouling anything in the housing.

Second thing. Where on the head is the temp sender sited? On one of my engines, it is sited next to the thermostat housing. On the other it is towards the rear of the head. This latter engine also appeared to run hot, and I moved the sender to a blanked hole next to the thermostat as with the other one. It now reads much better.

A little trick I heard of was to fit a tube to the engine drain tap on the side of the block, open it slightly and put the other end of the tube overboard. This increases the water flow through the engine and if your problem is some blockage in the water exit lines then the temperature should come down. I don't think this should be any sort of permanent solution. Don't let the engine drain after use - close the tap and let the engine run awhile.

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