Any carpenters out there?

[Jabamusic]

My hatch has given up the ghost after 30 odd years and requires a major overhaul - thankfully the remedial work is limited to replacing the marine ply infill and the hardwood veneers that cover the top of said item.

To be as clear as I can, the main frame of the hatch is fine and solid, but the top is rotten through to the ply underneath. I have stripped it all out and replaced the ply backing. I am now left with replacing 11 thin strips of oak/hardwood (about 2 foot long, 2 " wide and wafer thin)to lay across the top of the hatch surface leaving a 5mm gap for a nice black sikaflex infill.
Over the past week I have tried unsuccesfully to get the thin strips of oak which I obtained from a local joinery not to twist after securing them to the ply (using a waterproof wood glue). They twist upwards at the edges and look terrible.

So 3 questions;
1) What do i need to do to ensure this doesn't happen ie type of wood, levels of seasoning etc
2) Is sikaflex the material I should use for the infill?
3) Should I consider a synthetic product ie Tek-Dek?
4) OOPS that's 4! Finishing? varnish? something else?

Thanks guys !

 

[stav]

Start with something thicker and plane/belt sand down ( would not hold a lot of favour with me but where needs must).

Avoid using an adhesive with moisture in it.

Use epoxy, including for the joint.

Is it flat or ciuvred?
Flat polythene sheet and clamp a board to hold flat or if curved vacuum bag it?

Change the design to thinner ply and thicker strips, for outside I would not consider using strips less than 5mm thick. Or fibre glass it and paint it.

On the info provided.

Good luck

 

[Jabamusic]

I've heard that Cascamite is a favourite amongst boat builders. Should I consdier it?

 

[Tranona]

Use 2.5mm teak veneers (available from Howells or Robbins) cut into strips. You can use epoxy for both glue and with filler and pigment for the stripe, or you can used Sika. Last panel I did I used a polyurethane glue (Balcotan) and epoxy for the stripes because I wanted cream. You wll need to devise a method for clamping or holding down while the adhesive cures. Clamps at the end and concrete blocks in the middle should do it.

 

[Captain Bligh]

My hatch has given up the ghost after 30 odd years and requires a major overhaul - thankfully the remedial work is limited to replacing the marine ply infill and the hardwood veneers that cover the top of said item.

To be as clear as I can, the main frame of the hatch is fine and solid, but the top is rotten through to the ply underneath. I have stripped it all out and replaced the ply backing. I am now left with replacing 11 thin strips of oak/hardwood (about 2 foot long, 2 " wide and wafer thin)to lay across the top of the hatch surface leaving a 5mm gap for a nice black sikaflex infill.
Over the past week I have tried unsuccesfully to get the thin strips of oak which I obtained from a local joinery not to twist after securing them to the ply (using a waterproof wood glue). They twist upwards at the edges and look terrible.

So 3 questions;
1) What do i need to do to ensure this doesn't happen ie type of wood, levels of seasoning etc
2) Is sikaflex the material I should use for the infill?
3) Should I consider a synthetic product ie Tek-Dek?
4) OOPS that's 4! Finishing? varnish? something else?

Thanks guys !

as the teacher used to say in woodwork. "boards cup away from the heart" so therefore you need (i'm pretty sure anyway, i'll check) Tangentilly sawn strips. Also the sawn plank needs to be well seasoned (not salt and pepper) and i think about 18% moisture content. the stuff you are getting could be a little green, by that it means, if you stick it in the ground it might grow!!

for glue i would not pass the west system, hard to get in small quantities, but cas is excellent also

Tek Dek-pass

Varnish. its all in the preparation.

I'll check the saw option for the strips and drop you a msg. you'll probably have to saw theese yourself. or get a plank and get man with table saw to run them off