Antifouling over Coppercoat

Changed during pressure wash between tides, likewise fitting the hull mounted cooling plate for the new fridge.

Interesting that all the success stories seem to involve access to the hull at low tides at no cost
Also, no messing around every 12 months or so removing and then applying layers of poison to the hull. My wife lost the sight in one eye for a few days due to a tiny speck of old dry antifoul. So on my account there are cost, convenience, and health benefits.

However, we are all free to make our own choices, fortunately.
 
16 years after application, coppercoat is still working. Boat moored in tidal area W Coast Scotland, where fouling seems very light.
2 issues : Cast iron keel gets breakthrough rust and has to be redone every few years. (I'll try more coats of a different epoxy primer next time)
Need a good weather window for a week in early spring , before lift in, to get a good cure.
In fact the weather question will be the major factor in deciding wether to revert to conventional a/f when needed
 
Like many I used to hate the annual chore of antifouling so I went for coppercoat. I've not regretted it, although yes it does get fouled up sometimes depending on where you are? But so easy to clean off generally. After about 8 years it was wearing thin in a few places - I did wonder about unprofessional application ? ie not enough coats by so called professionals? ( I wasn't there at the time) Anyway I didn't hesitate to have it redone - (this time I was present).
Doing the maths and weighing up cost of number of years of conventional antifouling versus cost of coppercoat and years of it usefulness is a worthwhile exercise even if you don't weigh in the cost of stripping/ preparing old antifoul and time spent applying.
I must confess that my usage of the boat was quite a factor in my choice - I was about to set off on an extended cruise and the thought of avoiding lift outs in out of the way places was a consideration. I even found that in the tropics a scrub of the hull was easy enough by diving under the boat - the water was warm enough anyway even if you couldn't dry out because of lack of facilities or no tidal range.
 
I think the success stories are the people that not only RTFM but actually follow it.
If only paying someone to work on our boats guaranteed expertise - in any trade.

While growing up I often heard the saying:
"If you want a job doing properly do it yourself".

So I read alI that I could first, including the coppercoat instructions, that are really very simple. Borrowed some timber from the yard and bought some tarpaulins to build a tent around the hull. Applied high build epoxy base coats to a sanded hull then, when it cured, spent a long day mixing one litre at a time and thinly rolling on coppercoat, wet on wet, around and around the hull.

Once this was cured a couple of props had to be moved and touched up. When my final touch up mix started to go off I used a brush to finish the touch up. Now the instructions are quite clear, "do not use a brush". The two areas where the coppercoat did not work at first were the brushed areas, though after two years and some fairly aggressive rubbing down they worked and blended in to the rest of the coating. It looks as if too thick an application leaves the hard resin on the surface and the copper is not exposed and can not work. Simple really.
 
I actually enjoy antifouling . Scraping the stuff off is for someone else to do and is probably the reason why we go to work for a living or join pension schemes.

You can see the way it's going though . No DIY only yards. Then copper only, then nothing but drive thru boat washing facilities.

What we need are underwater scrubbing limpet drones that actually work to make all the above unnecessary. :)
 
While growing up I often heard the saying:
"If you want a job doing properly do it yourself".

So I read alI that I could first, including the coppercoat instructions, that are really very simple. Borrowed some timber from the yard and bought some tarpaulins to build a tent around the hull. Applied high build epoxy base coats to a sanded hull then, when it cured, spent a long day mixing one litre at a time and thinly rolling on coppercoat, wet on wet, around and around the hull.

Once this was cured a couple of props had to be moved and touched up. When my final touch up mix started to go off I used a brush to finish the touch up. Now the instructions are quite clear, "do not use a brush". The two areas where the coppercoat did not work at first were the brushed areas, though after two years and some fairly aggressive rubbing down they worked and blended in to the rest of the coating. It looks as if too thick an application leaves the hard resin on the surface and the copper is not exposed and can not work. Simple really.

Right in every respect.

Even your assumption about why the brushed Coppercoat was less effective.

BTW for the nooks and crannies stipple with a brush rather than brushing and it’s OK. They should put that in the manual, but they will tell you that over the phone!
 
What we need are underwater scrubbing limpet drones that actually work to make all the above unnecessary.
They exist, in the Persian Gulf, probably Dubai, way back in the 80's I saw a group of divers with an ex-north sea sidewinder trawler using power scrubbers to clean the hulls of tankers. Diver operated in those days rather than drones though.
 
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