Antifouling , do you rub down etc ?

[jakeroyd]

Just thought I would ask the question.
For many years now , using an eroding antifouling , I have never rubbed it down before putting on the new seasons new paint.
I have never used a primer etc. either.

At the end of the season and after jetwashing the slime etc. off there's very little thickness left.
So I just slap my 2 coats straight on in the Spring.

I have ready many articles on here , some talk about having it stripped back and bead blasted off etc.
This bemuses me.

Are they talking about a non eroding antifoul where the business part of the mixture is contained with a carrier which stays on after the effective bits have done their work?

Or have I got this wrong ?

Thank you in advance

 

[Daydream believer]

Before I bit the bullet & applied coppercoat I used to remove about 1/3rd of the hull back to a base layer of antifoul paint each year plus any areas at the waterline to prevent excessive build up . The idea being to avoid an excess of useless deposit & having to try & fair off thick edges by sanding when large pieces flaked off. Poor antifouling reduces performance.

 

[Biggles Wader]

Ive been using eroding antifoul,Cruiser Uno,and I have given it a cursory rub down with wet and dry just to ensure the surface is keyed then slapped on the new.The paint sticks ok and erodes with use even if it is largely useless at preventing weed growing.

 

[pvb]

I use eroding antifoul and wash the hull down with a running hose and a Scotchbrite abrasive pad. This seems to minimise build-up of old antifoul.

 

[PetiteFleur]

All I do is just scrape off any loose antifouling and then recoat. I'm not racing so not worried about the minute loss of speed. I also used to do a mid season light scrub but don't bother nowadays ...

 

[macd]

I have ready many articles on here , some talk about having it stripped back and bead blasted off etc.

I suspect you've got the wrong end of the stick. Slurry blasting is often used to remove all antifoul prior to applying Coppercoat or similar coatings. Irrelevant to your situation. Bead-blasting is generally much smaller scale, not least because the glass beads are expensive.

 

[William_H]

The condition of the paint and hull will soon dictate just what you do with your hull before applying antifouling paint. You will see big steps at water line or other areas where a/f has come off, or you may be lucky and have most of it worn away so not have the steps. You will probably attack what is left with wet and dry sand paper used wet and soon get very tired of that game. So eventually while starting with good intentions, you give up and slap on more paint. If you have the big steps you may try a scraper but again that is a terrible job. So you just do your best then go sailing . olewill

 

[Bobc]

Just thought I would ask the question.
For many years now , using an eroding antifouling , I have never rubbed it down before putting on the new seasons new paint.
I have never used a primer etc. either.

At the end of the season and after jetwashing the slime etc. off there's very little thickness left.
So I just slap my 2 coats straight on in the Spring.

I have ready many articles on here , some talk about having it stripped back and bead blasted off etc.
This bemuses me.

Are they talking about a non eroding antifoul where the business part of the mixture is contained with a carrier which stays on after the effective bits have done their work?

Or have I got this wrong ?

Thank you in advance

I do what you do and have done so for 20+ years. Mucking about rubbing down is for people with too much time on their hands and too few mates in the pub.

 

[richardbrennan]

I am with pvb in using a scotchbrite pad, but I do use wet and dry to prevent excessive build up along the top edge where some would perhaps have a boot top.

 

[TQA]

I always rub down with 80 WD used wet.

TOP TIP use an articulating head for drywall sanding mounted on a broom handle. This allows you to sand the whole bottom with minimal bending and is MUCH faster than using a hand held block.

 

[jakeroyd]

Thank you for your answers.
i am much assured.
That's not to say of course that I do not poke off obvious flaking with a scraper before I put new anti fouling on.
but that's all.

 

[jonrarit]

I always rub down with 80 WD used wet.

TOP TIP use an articulating head for drywall sanding mounted on a broom handle. This allows you to sand the whole bottom with minimal bending and is MUCH faster than using a hand held block.

View attachment 63292

+1 for the articulating head but instead of wet and dry I use 60 grit sanding mesh on it like this Again used wet.

Can do the entire hull in about 90 mins (34ft boat) to an acceptable level ... could spend more time taking it back further but don't see the point to be honest

JR