Antifouling between tides

vande9389

vande9389

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Hi,

I have been reading through quite a few posts on the subject of antifouling, and I was wondering if there are any opinions or experiences with antifouling that can be applied between tides without having to haul out. Any suggestions as to the product and any advice would be gratefully received. All the products I have seen sofar seem to mandate at least 24 hrs before re-immersion.

Regards

Peter
 
I've done it on one tide successfuly with hard and eroding antifoulings. I suspect that the hard antifouling worked better due to being quicker drying.
 
I've antifouled between tides everyyear since new (21 years) using erodable antifouling and have had no problems. I do do the cleaning off a day or two before between tides so as to have as much time as possible available. I then rinse with fresh water (garden sprayer) as soon as the tide has gone. You must pre-order a warm, dry day, with preferably just a slight drying breeze /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif There are often good days in early May, which also means the paints fresh for the main season.

Vic
 
Did mine last September and got absolutely wet and filthy scrubbing off 15 months of fouling. Most of the old errodable antifouling came off, so I was back down to the grey primer for application of the new stuff. This time I've switched to International Hard Racing. I have a 37ft long keel boat and managed the entire job singlehanded - scub, 2 coats and boot line - over three tides. I didn't have any fresh water nearby and would recommend that you try to find a site with a hose or, better still, a pressure washer! I found that the new paint did dry adequately between tides. However, it was warmer in September than it has been of late! Just start painting at the bottom of the keel and work up, allowing the area that will be immersed first the longest drying time.
 
The paint manufacturers do not recommend this and an warranties are void. Antifoul requires 24 hours to dry. If you can still smell solvent evaporating from the paint after application it has not cured. There is no way that it can cure in time between a tide. For the paint to work to its designed efficiency it should be left for the minimum time stated on the can or the product literature guides.

Several people will claim that this works and to some success, but they are all taking a chance.
 
I confess I always do it between tides (for financial reasons)and don't have the option of a fresh water rinse either. I try and scrape back any flaky areas and prime them the day before if I'm doing the job over two tides and then I've got all the following tide for antifouling. I only get the cheapest stuff I can find and it does the job adequately though the boat lives in a mud berth nearly all the time so I gues the barnies don't get too much of a chance...
 
Back in the days when Jack Straw was a rebel rousing student leader antifouling was still commonly applied between tidesas it was less scientific in it composition.Since then there have been restrictions on its content so probably to get best result you should haul out,or apply cheapo stuff and enjoy a week end on the hard scrubbing off,and be near the pub;all very boaty activities.
 
Now you mention it, I do recall being harangued by a bearded twentysomething in a rather expensive tan leather jacket.

I recall an antifouling called "Cerrux Red Hand", which required the boat to be launched whilst the paint was still wet. The name of the paint was appropriate.

I think that a great deal depends on the ambient air temperature and the wind strength. I have used "modern" a/fs between tides sucessfully but I had to really struggle to can clean the hull, rub down, rinse off and apply an a/f in a single tide.
 
I have been antifouling between the tides for many years. I have used really cheap stuff and now use a Blakes mid to high performance type.It must be a dry day ideally with a drying breeze. I've found that as long as the paint is dry,even only a couple of hours it still works fine. I stay afloat all the year round and antifoul twice a year. Get on with it.

Pick a "nice" day, invite friends!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thanks to you all. I think it is worth a try for a season. If I get any problems I will air them on this forum. The boat has been antifouled with Blakes cruising performer up to now with good results. She has been over 12 months now without a new coat of antifouling and the growth is still minimal. Over the next couple of weeks I will take her down to the scrubbing piles and give her a hosing down to clear what is there now and later in the year re-coat with antifouling when it is warmer.

cheers and a safe 2006 to you all.
 
Don't worry about immersing the paint after a couple of hours, as long as you have painted it on to a dry(ish) hull on a reasonably dry and warm day. How many boats have you seen in the slings being relaunched and the bare patches where the chocks were getting painted within ten minutes of immersion.

Sure the longer it has to dry, the better, and I don't mean that ten minutes is good, but the stuff will still cure in the water. Unless you intend to leave the scrubbing wall at 30 knots.

So get your prep done before hand, the day before is good. Give it a fresh water wash if you can and soon as that is dry, slap the antifoul on with a great big roller.

I have a scrape and scrub before hand, and then use a pressure washer fed by a portable generator and great big barrel of freshwater on the painting day. But this is more to a lack of willing helpers rather than indulging in technology.

As for which paint, the last antifoul was Blakes Tiger as I had a nice big discount from the nice friendly chap at the chandlery.

Hope that helps, I don't worry about the makers instructions too much as I am not looking for a racing finish, and it works for me. Doesn't seem to bother a lot of other folks either.

The environmental impact? I would love to be more environmentally freindly and haul out at a boatyard that filters the yard run off, but all the yards round me drain directly into the river. Something for the future perhaps?
 
I've pressure washed and antifpouled my 57' boat between tides, one side each tide. Done this about four times, never had a problem. Peeps I know have doen this for twenty years. I used for my between tides jobs, Jotun cruising eroding antifoul. Never had a problem.
 
[ QUOTE ]
. Antifoul requires 24 hours to dry. There is no way that it can cure in time between a tide. For the paint to work to its designed efficiency it should be left for the minimum time stated on the can or the product literature guides.

Several people will claim that this works and to some success, but they are all taking a chance.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have done an 'on the beach between tides' job most seasons for the last 35 years, and have never had any problems. What 'chance' am I taking? I have used a wide variety of different soft A/Fs over the years using whatever works best for the locality.

What is supposed to 'fail' when the tide comes back? the stuff always stays on, and does its job. Having just bought this seasons A/F for a totally extortionate sum of money, I do not want to take chances with it!
 
I think I will give between tide antifouling a try then. Incidently, I was looking on the International site and found their latest antifouling called "Cruiser Premium" actually states in the datasheet immersion after 5 hrs at 15 degrees. I think Blakes Cruiser Performer has been on the boat up to now with good results. I might give International a try out for a season to see if the same results can be achieved. Does anyone have any recommendations? The boat is kept on the Hamble.

Regards

Peter
 
I like to stick around at haul out time, look for the least fouled boats, and ask what paint they used.

International Bootopping for example actually seems to encourage the grass in Chi Harbour, and while Blakes Cruiser works well up the Itchenor reach, it seems to actively encourage barnacle growth in Prinstead!
 
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