When I cleaned the the anti-foul off my boat, back to the gelcoat in preparation to Epoxying it.
I used a Sandvik two-handed scraper with a tungsten blade , A very efficiant tool.Don't think it had ever being done before, very thick covering and flaking.
Be sure if you follow this method, to wear a mask and posslbly goggles, its a messy job !
If you are going to scrape then do use the sandvik, but the blade is so sharp when new you can shave gelcoat so be careful. Make sure you cover up completely and gloves, mask and goggles. VERY good idea to rest frequently as a long scrape with the blade slightly off can put a very big scratch into your hull. I only used the one blade for both my Cat hulls (changing it over after one hull) because the blade is double sided. You can get one that is abt 2.5" wide which is the best for general work, and another with a small 3 sided blade, each blade only abt .75" wide for detailed work.
Bosch produce a small power scraper/carver. (screw fix-best price)You can obtain spatula blades for scraping. You can control the speed and pressure applied. excellent and efficient -don't get carried away though it likes GRP!
I removed the antifoul from my 34 ft hull with one of these. Quite hard work but effective given time. I found that grinding the corners off the blades made a big difference when it came to damaging the gelcoat. Easy to cut big gouges with the corners. Especially, as you say, when you get tired.
Standard advice is never use a grinder on antifoul - the dust is supposed to be toxic. Personally, I doubt that when I see how readily organisms attach themselves to it. Perhaps it's different when it's in your lungs.
I used a kind of goo, supplied by a firm in Wales, you apply a thick covering to the anti-fouling wait about four hours and then pressure wash it off; some places need two treatments. I have some in my boat store if you are interested I will make a note of the name, address etc and post it.
2 or three times next season dry out instead of anchoring off or going into a marina and tackle it on a falling tide with one of those large nylon pan scrubs (the sort you can get at the chandlers with a backing pad to grip them and attach a broom handle to).
I aim to scrub twice a season and usually by the second time my epoxy coating is starting to smile through in places.
I like to think that by removing a layer it rejuvinates the effect of that below, but I think the reality is that the biocides hae long since leached out so this effect is marginal.
Incidentally, if you know a good janitorial supplier, the nylon pads and holders are 1/4 the price of the chandlers.