Anti Fouling Epoxied Hull

[sparkie]

Hi all,

I inherited a tin of International Offshore (with Teflon) A/F when I bought my present boat, and was told that it was the only recommended A/F for my hull, which has been epoxy coated from new, I think with VC Tar (it's black anyway).

Ever since then I have used it, but it's getting to be v.expensive, and my neighbours are achieving better results all-round with other makes. I'm tempted to change, but obviously don't want to spoil all the good work of the last 20 years or so by doing so (the coating is absolutely sound, smooth and well stuck).

Any opinions?????

 

[johnalison]

You can get compatibility charts such as this from International . If in doubt and there is no too much build-up you can always put a coat of primer on. I've not heard of an antifouling which can't be used on epoxy but would be interested to know if there is one.

 

[alec]

It might be worth phoning the International Paint helpline. They have been very helpful in the past.

I had the same situation as yourself, but with a different Teflon antifoul. This time, the Blakes helpline suggested I give a light rubbing with 150 grit wet and dry. My new eroding antifoul has stayed on fine.

I suppose you could use a tie coat such as Blakes Underwater Primer or International's Primocon, but I would ring the helpline first.

 

[Quandary]

There are a considerable number of boats with epoxy coated hulls, I coated three, two with Hempels tar epoxy and later when this was not available another boat with Awlgrip Hullgard. My current boat was epoxy coated in the factory but with hindsight I would have had a better and cheaper job doing it myself as the epoxy layer is very thin. With older hulls which were reputed to be more vulnerable to osmosis it was thought to be advantageous to clean back to grp. dry out well and apply 5-6 coats of 2 pack epoxy, you were then recommended to apply a coat of antifouling within a couple of hours of the last epoxy coat to tie it. I used to race so the antifoul was taken off every 4-5 years in case it was rough??? and recoated. Any antifouling was regarded as OK we used Seajet because it was easier to apply smoothly, we were so obsessed that we would roll it on and lay it off with as fine broad brush changing the direction between coats, the last one was laid off vertically. (the boat was a Sigma33 and at the time we were one design racing in a fleet of up to about forty so you left nothing to chance)
Unless you are removing the antifouling each time your next coat is not going to get anywhere near the epoxy, even then, unless it is something very exotic, most antifoulings are compatible. I have used Micron. Seajet and Blakes as a first coat on epoxy at different times without problem. My current boat had International? applied on the epoxy in Finland 2 yrs.ago but when delivered the importer overcoated with Blakes (it was the wrong colour) I now use Seajet as the bottom is navy blue and I am intending going on to an 18 months in, 6 months out cycle.
(If your hull is aluminium all the above is irrelevant as you are much more restricted even with epoxy separation.)

 

[Caer Urfa]

My boat which is twenty years old was also originaly coated with a VC TAR which is a very good resin coating.
The resin coating you have does NOT want to be removed as it will keep your hull in good condition.
Generaly VC offshore is about' £80 for 2 litres'.
Ontop of my gel coats which is ontop of my resin coat I use primocon primer then International Micron Extra at about '£80 for 2.5 Litres a tin'.
Not cheap, BUT I do not need to 'lift out' for 2 years mainly for anode replacement and also re-coating and use the boat all year round and the hull is sound!.
Everyone has their own favorites and I go for what results I see.
Mike

 

[sparkie]

Thanks for all the advice so far. It's Blakes I'm thinking of using as it seems to perform well in my bay. A call to their helpline as suggested would be a good idea I'm sure. One of the main problems I have with the VC Offshore is that it only comes in 750ml (45 squid) and 2.0l (95squid)) tins. The 750 is just not enough and the other's way too much.

 

[jan2]

I have the offer of a used wooden boat and am thinking of drying her out in order to paint/coat her to make her tougher. I really want the strength of wood and love sailing in wood but I know it will be a lot for me to maintain... Any suggestions as to how to proceed and what to use?

 

[sparkie]

Not my specialist field Jan, no doubt others will be able to help. There are lots of options now for treating wood, and wooden boats have a great appeal, but they are as you say hard work. I find the GRP variety challenging enough........

Good luck

Sparkie