Another Chain locker question

[timmygobang]

Queue the photo (excuse grubby deck)



The chain locker is only accessible via a cupboard door in the forepeak. The locker drains into the bilges which troubles me greatly. Plugging the gap where the chain enters the locker is not really an option in my opinion (previous owner put a sponge in place). I want a more permanent solution.

So what I want to do is create a solid partition with a sealed door to the anchor locker (for access) which will be self draining. There's no room on the foredeck to install a hatch to access the chain locker.

Any thoughts? has anyone else done this before. I'm thinking epoxying a piece of ply to fit the v-shape, apply kevlar matting to keep it in place. Creating a strong waterproof door is my next conundrum.

I really don't want in a situation on a rough night having to pump the bilges because the anchor locker is draining into the bilges.

 

[Tranona]

Queue the photo (excuse grubby deck)

View attachment 31251

The chain locker is only accessible via a cupboard door in the forepeak. The locker drains into the bilges which troubles me greatly. Plugging the gap where the chain enters the locker is not really an option in my opinion (previous owner put a sponge in place). I want a more permanent solution.

So what I want to do is create a solid partition with a sealed door to the anchor locker (for access) which will be self draining. There's no room on the foredeck to install a hatch to access the chain locker.

Any thoughts? has anyone else done this before. I'm thinking epoxying a piece of ply to fit the v-shape, apply kevlar matting to keep it in place. Creating a strong waterproof door is my next conundrum.

I really don't want in a situation on a rough night having to pump the bilges because the anchor locker is draining into the bilges.

Nothing unusual about your setup, nor is it the risk you imagine. If you are worried (and you would need to be in a survival situation for water ingress through the chain pipe to be an issue) make up a cork bung to fit around the chain as it goes through the pipe. If you are planning offshore for long periods, stow the anchor below and have a bung with the chain attached underneath to fully seal the hole. Trying to build a sealed anchor locker with an effective drain above the waterline is a massive job for little, or no benefit.

 

[sarabande]

Sealing the anchor locker below decks is a NoNo. If any water gets in (e.g. dripping off a recently raised anchor) it will not dry out, you will encourage rust, mould, and extra weight just where you don't need it, and getting access will be very difficult. you need a limber hole from the anchor compartment to the bilges.

Sort out a decent barrier to prevent water going down into the anchor locker from rain and waves.

 

[rob2]

Perhaps "sealing" the anchor locker isn't necessary, but a lot are sealed. All that's needed really is a sump arrangement with a drain overboard (usualy covered by a clamshell to prevent waves pushing in. You still need access to sort out jams and to fasten the bitter end.

Rob.

 

[timmygobang]

Perhaps "sealing" the anchor locker isn't necessary, but a lot are sealed. All that's needed really is a sump arrangement with a drain overboard (usualy covered by a clamshell to prevent waves pushing in. You still need access to sort out jams and to fasten the bitter end.

Rob.

Yeh thats what I had in mind, with a water tight door to the compartment. Though Saraband has a point in regards to ventilation as the sump would be the only source of air.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Installing an external drain is a must in my book, Just the thought of all that rubbish and rust staining in the bilges is not good at all.

You should be able to prevent water getting past your existing access point by strategically adding some insertion rubber sheeting, just make sure the top attaching point is warer tight so no moisture gets behind it, then lay it out to cover the opening.

If you have a chain stack problem, just open the door and push/pull the rubber to one side and sort it.

PS. if you split the locker drain so you have one on each side, ventilation will be natural.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[timmygobang]

Installing an external drain is a must in my book, Just the thought of all that rubbish and rust staining in the bilges is not good at all.

You should be able to prevent water getting past your existing access point by strategically adding some insertion rubber sheeting, just make sure the top attaching point is warer tight so no moisture gets behind it, then lay it out to cover the opening.

If you have a chain stack problem, just open the door and push/pull the rubber to one side and sort it.

PS. if you split the locker drain so you have one on each side, ventilation will be natural.

Good luck and fair winds.

Thanks very much for your input

I guess I don't really have a concept of just how much water could come into the locker in a worst case scenerio. The sheeting sounds like a good idea, attaching it may be difficult, have you done this on yours?

I have a bolt on keel so preventing water running over the keel bolts is an added reason to prevent it from draining into the bilges as you mention.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Thanks very much for your input

I guess I don't really have a concept of just how much water could come into the locker in a worst case scenario. The sheeting sounds like a good idea, attaching it may be difficult, have you done this on yours?

I have a bolt on keel so preventing water running over the keel bolts is an added reason to prevent it from draining into the bilges as you mention.

Not on our current but one we had years ago, I stuck a lump of hard wood to the aft end of the locker with some left over epoxy resin and Micro fibres, then added a strip of stainless to act as a clamp with about 8 large stainless bolts that screwed into nuts I had bogged into the timber. no maintenance required.

It was still there 10 or 12 years later when I spotted her coming into the marina in Cairns, a young lady and a part time hired skipper on board to teach her the ropes, pity he didn't teach her more navigation, she came to grief on the ribbon reefs North of Cairns a few months latter.

Insertion rubber is relatively thin and very elastic so works well, though I have seen one other with what looked like conveyor belt, and would have a problem to around it from the opening aft.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[Tranona]

Before you start hacking your boat around check how high your new locker will need to be to get it above the waterline to drain. Then think about the additional weight high up of the chain and the reduction in fall from the windlass. As to the amount of water getting below - how old is the boat? Looks like it has been around for a while so guess that if there is a major problem of water leaking into the bilge it would have shown itself by now. Other than cosmetics rust on the nuts of the keel bolts is not a problem and can be significantly reduced by cleaning them and painting. Quite normal to have keel bolts in the bilge!

 

[Billjratt]

Buy or make a nice cover for the windlass. That will keep it good and also stop the bulk of any greenies from getting down the chainpipe.
If you can't cope with a little water in the bilge, build a bulkhead and fit a drainpipe to the shower drain pump.
I bet the boat has survived for years with the old system though....