whisper
Well-Known Member
We've got this fitted - doesn't seem to make any difference.
YES, it is turned on and "working". /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
YES, it is turned on and "working". /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Anodes on Sterndrives - normal to change every two months?
- Thread starter acbruce
- Start date
acbruce
Well-Known Member
Whisper, do you mean that you have Volvo ACPS fitted and it is not any good? £600 down the drain?
whisper
Well-Known Member
Well the boat was fitted with a Volvo anti-corrosion system from new - 2 small grid like things about 2" square, on the transom. Wires connect these to I know not where - well actually to a box inside the engine bay. Latter has a little light on it which flashes - presumably means it's working.
The boat has 2 bar anodes on the shield and a ring one in front of the props plus discs on each trim tab and shaft anode on each of the bathing platform supports.
Ring disappears exceedingly quickly and recent very rapid wasting of all the anodes has definitely got worse, IMHO, by our fitting of SS props.
Have now changed back to ally ones and will see if the situation alters.
Boat is moored either against a harbour wall or on a pontoon. Both are dry for approx 2 hrs either side of LW. No electricity fitted to either.
SO I 've no evidence that the anti-corrosion system is effective. I suppose I should disconnect it in order to find out, but I daren't /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Would the fact that there are 3 alloy ladders on the quay wall make any difference - one more than there used to be? Shouldn't do, should it.?
Just thought of another thing. When on the pontoon one of the anchoring chains run out near to the leg. Could this make a difference.?
The boat has 2 bar anodes on the shield and a ring one in front of the props plus discs on each trim tab and shaft anode on each of the bathing platform supports.
Ring disappears exceedingly quickly and recent very rapid wasting of all the anodes has definitely got worse, IMHO, by our fitting of SS props.
Have now changed back to ally ones and will see if the situation alters.
Boat is moored either against a harbour wall or on a pontoon. Both are dry for approx 2 hrs either side of LW. No electricity fitted to either.
SO I 've no evidence that the anti-corrosion system is effective. I suppose I should disconnect it in order to find out, but I daren't /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Would the fact that there are 3 alloy ladders on the quay wall make any difference - one more than there used to be? Shouldn't do, should it.?
Just thought of another thing. When on the pontoon one of the anchoring chains run out near to the leg. Could this make a difference.?
jparham
Well-Known Member
I am stunned a boat this young didn't already have a galvanic isolator fitted as standard......I was suffering from cast Ali props losing their paint and rotting. Needing replacement in 18 months! I did some voltage measuring from boat earth to pontoon earth and pile. Was getting readings of around 1 volt, which I understand is a problem. I've added a couple of chunky McDuff pearl anodes to earthing wire and connected them both up to the boat earth. They hang close to the props (KAD32's) but not so close that if I forget to take them up, they won't wind around the props!. These last a couple of years and are much easier to replace in season. This solved the problem. It also slowed down the ring anode disappearing just in front of the props. Note it is also possible to have stray currents from other boats that aren't earthed/have faulty earthing plus if there's loads of junk steel in the water somewhere close....