anode brands

[jon and michie]

Hi - I am sure this may have been asked but as I am thinking ahead before I lift my boat out for routine maintenance.
is there a better made anode from a specific manufacturer or are they all about the same i.e is technoseal better than mg duff etc.

all opinions welcomed

jon

 

[oldgit]

Am fortunate in having anode manufacturer nearby.
Have been using their anodes along with many local commercial boaters for the past decade or two.
Have no great urge to pay a great deal more for anodes with well known names in a fancy bubble pack.

http://invicta-anodesltd.co.uk/index.html

 

[RichardS]

Hi - I am sure this may have been asked but as I am thinking ahead before I lift my boat out for routine maintenance.
is there a better made anode from a specific manufacturer or are they all about the same i.e is technoseal better than mg duff etc.

all opinions welcomed

jon

I just go online an buy the cheapest I can find at that time.

They always seem to vanish at the same rate wherever they're from.

Richard

 

[NormanS]

For my pear shaped one, I look on the Internet, and go for the best deal. For my propeller anode, I make my own by melting other people's discards. It's just zinc.

 

[benchmark]

I use technoseal but the Price differs depending on where you go. At the local hardware shop (Biltema-which is a kind or IKEA for hardware) the anodes are engraved with the name technoseal and lie unpacked and loose in a box where they cost about the same price as lollipop.
At the Marine shop it is another story , the same anode is individually vacuum packed cost 3 times the price .

 

[VicS]

Hi - I am sure this may have been asked but as I am thinking ahead before I lift my boat out for routine maintenance.
is there a better made anode from a specific manufacturer or are they all about the same i.e is technoseal better than mg duff etc.

all opinions welcomed

jon

Just be sure that what you buy complies with the relevant standard for purity / composition

A very low iron, and other impurity, content is particularly important with zinc anodes

For appropriate specs see the major anode manufacturers sites eg http://www.zincsmart.com/quality.htm

 

[Momac]

Take a look at solent anodes
https://www.solentanodes.co.uk/


.

 

[NormanS]

Just be sure that what you buy complies with the relevant standard for purity / composition

A very low iron, and other impurity, content is particularly important with zinc anodes

For appropriate specs see the major anode manufacturers sites eg http://www.zincsmart.com/quality.htm

Do you think it really makes a difference? I expect that when I make mine, although I skim off all the rubbish from the top, and don't use the stuff from the bottom of the ladle, it probably has traces of other than pure zinc. My anodes seem to disappear at just the same rate as the bought ones, and my ten year old propeller looks like new. It's only a sacrificial anode.

 

[RichardS]

Do you think it really makes a difference? I expect that when I make mine, although I skim off all the rubbish from the top, and don't use the stuff from the bottom of the ladle, it probably has traces of other than pure zinc. My anodes seem to disappear at just the same rate as the bought ones, and my ten year old propeller looks like new. It's only a sacrificial anode.

Haven't you two been through all this before, virtually word-for-word?

Richard

 

[vyv_cox]

Haven't you two been through all this before, virtually word-for-word?

Richard

True, but many people read these forums but not necessarily every argument . The advice about iron content is in the standards, so is presumably based on user experience.

 

[NormanS]

True, but many people read these forums but not necessarily every argument . The advice about iron content is in the standards, so is presumably based on user experience.

My experience as a user is that home-made is fine. This is after all a PBO forum, and I count myself as a PBO.

 

[NormanS]

Haven't you two been through all this before, virtually word-for-word?

Richard

You could say the same thing about many forum subjects. Try anchors and anchoring for instance.

 

[PaulRainbow]

You could say the same thing about many forum subjects. Try anchors and anchoring for instance.

Try Rolls Royce battery connections Norm

 

[RichardS]

Try Rolls Royce battery connections Norm

But I did the sensible thing and just posted a link to the original thread rather than repeat the whole kit and caboodle. :encouragement:

Richard

 

[NormanS]

But I did the sensible thing and just posted a link to the original thread rather than repeat the whole kit and caboodle. :encouragement:

Richard

I'm not sure if you're criticising the OP for daring to post about a subject which happens to have been raised previously, or if you're complaining about some of the responses to the thread, which naturally reflect the beliefs of the respondents. Either way, maybe you should apply to become a forum moderator.

 

[VicS]

True, but many people read these forums but not necessarily every argument . The advice about iron content is in the standards, so is presumably based on user experience.

ITYWF that a fair bit of scientific research went into developing the alloy that is now recognised as U.S. Military Specification, A-18001K.

A bit of info on this site http://www.boatzincs.com/use_milspec_a18001k.html but there is more out there to be found for the doubters benefit.

 

[RichardS]

I'm not sure if you're criticising the OP for daring to post about a subject which happens to have been raised previously, or if you're complaining about some of the responses to the thread, which naturally reflect the beliefs of the respondents. Either way, maybe you should apply to become a forum moderator.

I'm most certainly not doing either of those things. I'm solely replying to Paul who is, confusingly for you, actually talking about an entirely different thread about batteries.

But your last point is quite apposite as, certainly on The Lounge, I have become the "de facto" User-Mod for my sins as John Morris will confirm, or not, depending upon his prevailing demeanor. It's a tough job but someone's got to do it!

Richard

 

[vyv_cox]

ITYWF that a fair bit of scientific research went into developing the alloy that is now recognised as U.S. Military Specification, A-18001K.

A bit of info on this site http://www.boatzincs.com/use_milspec_a18001k.html but there is more out there to be found for the doubters benefit.

I'm sure you are correct but the best standards also incorporate user experience. I used to write some for rotating equipment. Many things that work in theory fail to live up to their expectations in practice. The MIL standards generally include, or are at least confirmed by, field experience.

 

[NormanS]

ITYWF that a fair bit of scientific research went into developing the alloy that is now recognised as U.S. Military Specification, A-18001K.

A bit of info on this site http://www.boatzincs.com/use_milspec_a18001k.html but there is more out there to be found for the doubters benefit.

Thanks for that info. I've now had time to look at your link. I found it fascinating because my ( official bought) pear shaped anode, which is IIRC on it's second year, is badly covered in a white deposit, rendering at least 50% of it useless. My home made propeller anode for my Bruntons Autoprop, has little or no white encrustation, and erodes a lot, meaning that it has to be renewed every year. I must be doing something right.

 

[mogmog2]

... I make my own by melting other people's discards. It's just zinc.

I have a little foundry, do you just use any remnants or are some too far gone (white powdery/crumbly etc) to be any use? Cheers.