Angle grinder discs for shaping wood ?

[srp]

Don't know why not, been using them and a properly sharpened smoothing plane for this sort of job since I was a 15year old apprentice (now drawing pension). If you want it to look like an amateur bodge job, then certainly use an angle grinder. As for using a drum sander.......!

If it's any consolation, I'm with you on the spokeshave and the smoothing plane (and a block plane and even a carefully used chisel). The control and accuracy you can get from using a proper edge tool for shaping is far better than any sort of sander or grinder (provided that you know how to use them properly of course, you have to have a feel for a spokeshave in particular).

 

[oldsaltoz]

Be a bit more specific on the foam. I dont think you mean closed cell neoprene or polystyrene. Do you cut away the foam from nthe inside after laminating?

No. the closed cell foam would be like Klegacell (not sure what you have available in UK) a thin 6 to 10mm foam, simply make cuts about half way through the foam and bend so the cuts close up, add more cuts for more bend. when you have the bend in one direction correct, cut diagonally across the first cuts and bend to check the bend is as required.

Now just wedge this between battens fixed to some scrap timber (or ply) that is covered in builders plastic to prevent it sticking and double check the curves.

When happy, lay it out flat with the slots facing up and fill them with a mix of Micro-fibres and epoxy resin, apply after wetting out the cuts with just resin, now push it back between the battens and let it cure.

You now have a curved opening at the front and flush fitting on both sides and the back These should match the new mounting profiles. if not it's pretty simple to cut and or build up on any side/end.

Clean up the inside with a grinder and glass over with 3 layers of 300 gram bidirectional cloth on all sides, finish with rovings to get a smoother finish and avoid some sanding.

Now give it a light coat of Micro-Spheres mixed with an epoxy, sand to final finish when cured.

The base a single sheet of foam curved is needed, glassed over top and bottom, attached then cut to final shape after gluing to the top section with a mix as used above.

When doing this also include the frame ( small strips of Stainless steel angle glassed in) for the front panel, I cover the stainless screws with Vasaline and insert a drinking straw over the thread both sides of the nut behind the stainless angle then class them in, the Vasaline keeps the thread from sticking for easy removal. The bottom angle runs the full length to prevent any chance of a leak.

I often use perspex for the face, easy to shape and has a nice finish when you sand and paint the back, perhaps adding your logo before painting so it show through. or the function of the instrument.

So there you have it, all done in a weekend, I hope this is detailed enough for you.

Good luck and fair winds.