And my last question (hopefully) on toilets and seacocks/ball valves.

Murv

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If the valves to the toilet are open, is it only the valve in the sea toilet that prevents the boat from filling with seawater?
 
How stupid do I feel now?
It is above the waterline.

Think I need a bit more sleep...

(and thanks for the replies)
 
i thought it seemed to be the obvious thing to do, until i bought the current boat, which has been re toiletd at some point, with the rim just below the waterline, which was a wet discovery, grrr :-)
 
How stupid do I feel now?
It is above the waterline.


(and thanks for the replies)

Not that stupid. Did a night crossing back from Cherbourg once and someone left the seacocks open and the heel had the loops and the toilet bowl below the water line. Woke up to see my shoes floating........
 
i thought it seemed to be the obvious thing to do, until i bought the current boat, which has been re toiletd at some point, with the rim just below the waterline, which was a wet discovery, grrr :-)

Not that stupid. Did a night crossing back from Cherbourg once and someone left the seacocks open and the heel had the loops and the toilet bowl below the water line. Woke up to see my shoes floating........

What a lovely surprise!
 
no
both my inlet & outlets have a large loop above the water line.
it also depends if the toilet is above or below the WL
If (presumeably) the outlet loop is not vented than can anyone tell me how it acts to prevent back-flooding ? On my boat if the lee rail is under then the entire loop could be below the waterline in any case...

Boo2
 
If (presumeably) the outlet loop is not vented than can anyone tell me how it acts to prevent back-flooding ? On my boat if the lee rail is under then the entire loop could be below the waterline in any case...

Boo2

we have a lavac, there is a syphon break in the outlet.
we also have the basin draining into the loo via a diverter valve. this when turned to "basin" acts as another valve to the inlet
 
How stupid do I feel now?
It is above the waterline.

Think I need a bit more sleep...

(and thanks for the replies)

Not stupid.....The base may be below the waterline so ensure the nuts and bolts that hold the toilet together are in good condition. Can be a bit of a shock if a heavy weight sits on the loo and causes dezinctified bolts to fail. Helps if you know where the sea cocks are :D:D:D
 
we have a lavac, there is a syphon break in the outlet.
we also have the basin draining into the loo via a diverter valve. this when turned to "basin" acts as another valve to the inlet

The lavac does not normally need or have a syphon break in the outlet.

It does however have, and need, a small air bleed into the highest point in the inlet hose loop

Lavac manual
 
The lavac does not normally need or have a syphon break in the outlet.

It does however have, and need, a small air bleed into the highest point in the inlet hose loop
I was going to say that my Lavac doesn't have a syphon break in the outlet. Does this mean my fears aboutback-flooding into the boat via the heads outlet are justified ? I understand the pump has a diaphragm valve so if the outlet pipe was filled that is all that would stand between me and wet feet ?

Boo2
 
I was going to say that my Lavac doesn't have a syphon break in the outlet. Does this mean my fears aboutback-flooding into the boat via the heads outlet are justified ? I understand the pump has a diaphragm valve so if the outlet pipe was filled that is all that would stand between me and wet feet ?

Boo2

Properly installed and pumped the Lavac does not need a syphon break in the outlet because the normal pumping procedure pumps lots of air into the outlet pipe effectively breaking any syphon.

Correctly installed and with very little maintenance the Lavac can be relied upon to work very well. If I could accommodate one with all the plumbing it is what I would fit without any hesitation. ( sadly with the demise of the old "Ball-Head" mini toilet i'm now looking at a chemical toilet or perhaps just a "bucket and chuckit" system)
 
Whilst I agree that loops and air bleeds are necessary, any pump will have TWO valves that will resist backflow otherwise it would not work as a pump.

Its true but they are not the sort of valves one would rely on to prevent a slow back syphon.

Correctly installed there are no worries if the seacocks are not closed. None of the seacocks ( except the engine cooling water inlet) were ever closed on the boat I crewed ... a mistake in the long term because after 30 years none of them could be closed, but that's a different matter
 
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