and just when you think it cannot get worse...The Calorifier is knackered.

oldgit

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Decided to get to the bottom of a mysterious freshwater leak which has been present since buying the boat, just a cupful in the bilges, just enough to irritate and annoy.
After pulling the boat to bits as last resort stuck my hand under the Calorifier ...£$%%& its leaking.
Removal of course meant removing all the stuff in front of it ie. the blimming Eber................
Absolute pig to get out and despite draining tanks water everywhere.

40 Litre Quick Nautic.
Buy the same again or a different make ?
Its only lasted 20 years.
 

oldgit

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Definite calorifier body leak or just the pressure relief valve leaking or relieving pressure when heating up? Did you confirm exactly where it was leaking from?
Removed entire calorifier .
Not actually exploded, but tank has def. split possibly on a seam ? ,outer insulation has bulged outwards and cracked open.
Beyond saving.
Just case of what to replace it with, same again means easy fit cos unions will be same.
 

srm

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At least you can get yours out. The one on my last boat was fitted, then the hanging locker built around it so the tank is wider than the door frame. First leak was from the o ring on the immersion element, easily solved but Italian design, it was screwed in to the bottom of the tank so leak corroded the electrical connections!! Second leak was from the tank. An interesting problem for the new owner.
 

mrangry

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I have also read that the copper ones like surejust are longer lasting as copper deals with expansion and contraction better than stainless steel
 

oldgit

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How old of a git will you be in another 20 years?
Not entirely sure ..... but hopefully chilling on my unfeasibly large superyacht in that great marina in the sky surrounded by young ladies in very small bikinis serving iced drinks but more importantly with a selection of credit cards and long list of people who will turn up on time as promised and mend things on the boat properly first time round.

On the other hand it may be somewhere else surrounded by a sea of Fire and Brimstone.
 

PlanB

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Hopefully, you won't have the dramas we had trying to get a calorifier and related immersion heater with the same size fitting.
 

Graham376

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Hopefully, you won't have the dramas we had trying to get a calorifier and related immersion heater with the same size fitting.

Ours has started leaking as well, not sure if it's the cylinder or a fitting but it's not something simple like the pressure relief blowing off. Pump gives a couple of ticks every few minutes and bilge pump occasionally runs. It's located under the floor of a very deep cockpit locker and not knowing if imperial fittings are available locally, unless it gets worse will leave it until January haul out. Just turning the pump on when water needed and I also have a backup foot pump direct from tanks to separate galley tap if it gets worse.
 

srm

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and I also have a backup foot pump direct from tanks to separate galley tap if it gets worse.
A bit of thread drift but have come across boats with only electric pumps for their fresh water tanks. One boat I was on, and another I helped had water in the tanks that could not be accessed due to a pump or electric failure. Fitted a manual system on my last boat when I got her home and carried a spare electric pump.

When running a sailing school yacht I would turn off the electric pump. No rationing as such but people will only pump what they need and no more with a manual system. Have used this as a discipline for myself on longish passages as noticed I waste less water with the manual pumps.
 

Graham376

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A bit of thread drift but have come across boats with only electric pumps for their fresh water tanks.

Our Moody 376 and previous 346 only had electric pumps and with tanks at low level, no way to gravity feed if pump failed. I fitted the manual backup before our first Biscay crossing and in 18 years, have not needed it - so far :)
 
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oldgit

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Just sourced a new calorifer and going to fit today.
Only access is via a small compartment in the saloon floor just a fraction to small to get a undersized Hobbit inside .
With eyes on stalks and arms with at least three joints you can reach into to small space to secure the connections at the far end of the area holding the tank.
All that remains then is to reinstall a large heavy eberspacher which was thoughtfully installed to prevent any access to the calorifer connections whatsoever, then reconnect heater control unit box fixed in place with a totally unnecessary quantity of long stainless screws.
The interesting bit will be................ will any of it ever work again. ?
 

Skylark

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Since I moved my boat to Scotland, I've had a lot of fresh water issues. I've had to replace 4 taps (one of them twice), the thermovalve on the end of the calorifier and, most recently, the pump pressure valve. Never previously had any such issues. I try really hard to drain down at the end of the season but still seem to get an unwelcome surprise in the Spring.
 

srm

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Since I moved my boat to Scotland, I've had a lot of fresh water issues. I've had to replace 4 taps (one of them twice), the thermovalve on the end of the calorifier and, most recently, the pump pressure valve. Never previously had any such issues. I try really hard to drain down at the end of the season but still seem to get an unwelcome surprise in the Spring.
I thought a winter berth on the Caledonian Canal might be pleasant, then saw a poster warning of potential damage to seacocks from freezing of fresh water in them. Never had problems with my fresh water systems; boats kept in Orkney and Shetland with sea water temps around 10C all year. Once we got marinas in Orkney kept a low wattage tube heater on at lowest point of the cabin.
 
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Boater Sam

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It may be a good idea to work out what caused the split.
Over pressure?
Seized PRV?
Flat or no expansion vessel?
Similarly flat or no accumulator If no nonreturn valve?
Physical damage?

Copper calorifiers will be repairable by soldering.
 

wingcommander

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It may be a good idea to work out what caused the split.
Over pressure?
Seized PRV?
Flat or no expansion vessel?
Similarly flat or no accumulator If no nonreturn valve?
Physical damage?

Copper calorifiers will be repairable by soldering.
Biggest cause is always Jack Frost..... geeee. It must get cold in August.
 
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