ancor hitting bow

reiner

New Member
Joined
4 Jan 2007
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german west coast
www.woodvibes.com
Hi folks !
I am presently sailing an english type, so called pilot boat, made of GRP. Very nice boat indeed, only when hoisting ancor, we do have problems. Unlike the norwegian pilot we had been sailing before, this one has a strait stem. With the chain roller fitted right on its head, the ancor ( CQR ) has a tendency to smash into the bow, when hoisted in a hurry. This leaves some very unpleasant marks on the hull, as you can imagine.
The former owner had an outhaul rigged. A snatchblock
through which you had to run the tripline of the ancor, so you could pull the ancor away from the boat, while hoisting it in with the winch at the same time. A comlicated, timeconsuming afair.
I do not trust the fashion to simply hook the fluke on the chainstay. If something breaks or slips in a seaway, I think you are realy in trouble. Does anybody know a practical solution ?
Greetings Buttpedder
 
I've seen a number of boats with stainless steel plating fixed around the bows to prevent the sort of damage you mention. Done properly it doesn't look too bad.

Another option could be to fit a short plank bowsprit with anchor rollers fitted well forward of the stem.
 
The normal procedure for a straight stemmed vessel is to raise the anchor untill it is just at water level. Then you take hold of the tripping line at the fluke end of the anchor to control it as you either bring it up and over the bulwarks or guide it into the bow roller.

The option of having the bow roller outboard on a length of wood is fairly common in Norway and I'm told it works very well.

Some boats do have stainless steel or copper sheet protecting the areas prone to damage. It's not very aesthetically pleasing though.
 
Re: anchor hitting bow

[ QUOTE ]
I am presently sailing an english type, so called pilot boat, made of GRP. Very nice boat indeed, only when hoisting ancor, we do have problems. Unlike the norwegian pilot we had been sailing before, this one has a strait stem. With the chain roller fitted right on its head, the ancor ( CQR ) has a tendency to smash into the bow, when hoisted in a hurry. This leaves some very unpleasant marks on the hull, as you can imagine.

[/ QUOTE ]Install a new roller assembly, on a platform as suggested above. This could be in the form of a "spare man", and could be on one side of the bow or another, out on an angle, if you want to avoid increasing the LOA of the boat.

spare-man.jpg


[ QUOTE ]
I do not trust the fashion to simply hook the fluke on the chainstay. If something breaks or slips in a seaway, I think you are realy in trouble. Does anybody know a practical solution ?

[/ QUOTE ]Install a chain-stop behind the anchor, or just lash the shank in place.
 
Re: anchor hitting bow

Thank you for your suggestions !
I was indeed thinking about a sort of ancor gallows, as we also used to have on our norwegian type boat. But it would have to stick out from the stem a fair amount, for to serve the same purpose. For to cope with the strain on
the gear it ought to be fairly strong, I guess. Might look a bit awkward, or ? What about a contraption, that could slide in and out, in this case made of stainless steel ? I think I once saw something simillar on a modern production line boat, but cant remember the make. Hasnt the straight stem after all come back into fashion today ? So maybe theres something prefabricated on the market ? Would save some trouble !
A metal armour on the hull would be my last solution, I just
sold my old steelboat.
 
It sounds like you have a bow-sprit, as you mention that you are not keen on hooking the fluke on to the chainstay (ie bobstay?).

Most of the photos of the Pardey's two cutter rigged vessels Seraffyn and Taleisin invariably show them with the trusty CQR anchor hooked around the bobstay, and the cable heaved home tight. And I presume that they cross oceans with the anchors stowed in this fashion (?).

Alternatively, if you do have a bow sprit, could you not just install a roller assembly on the side of the bowsprit approx 50 - 70 cm forward of the upright stem?

Or a dedicated small platform type of sprit (mounted next to the existing 'sprit) as shown in Craig's photo - nice one Craig! Although the Rocna tends to obscure the roller somewhat.......
 
I have anticipated the same problem on the Gaff Cutter I am building, I have just finished mocking up the stem head fitting in 6mm MDF prior to the parts being laser cut in 316 SS from my patterns and then welded. The design is for the lifting bowsprit on the centre line with mooring roller to port and stowage of a Sword anchor on rollers to starboard. It will self launch forward of the plum stem and tuck neatly up under the bowsprit. When finished and installed I will PM you and could send photos if it will help.
 
If the Pardeys know what they're doing then they'll pick the anchor up and bring it in board and lash it down before crossing oceans. I would consider hooking the anchor under the bobstay while getting in a position to drop anchor. At any other time though it would either be on the roller or on deck.
 
Re: Pardey anchoring

So we still havent solved the problem of getting the darned thing above the bobstay, without mutilating our beloved boat.
By the way, our bowsprit you can haul in, so there is no chance to attach anything to it, forward of the stem. ( Unless on the very tip ) It runs in clean through a ring inbetween the stemhead fitting and the forestay. I wonder, where is the forestay attached on your lifting version, Jon ? You say the bowsprit is in the centerline. Does it not run as far aft as the samsonpost ? Or is your boat a slup ?
 
Re: anchor hitting bow

There should be an eye on the anchor on the stock of the anchor just above the plough. Get a good piece of cord tied on to that. When you've hoisted the anchor up to about bobstay level get the boathook and grab the cord, the pull the anchor on deck plough first. This will at least stop the plough digging furrows up your topsides.
 
Re: Pardey anchoring

Good to see your Crabber, my arrangement with the lifting bowsprit is that the Sailspar roller reefing staysail will be attached to a hinged gate over and on the bowsprit centre line. There will be 2 outer forestays attached to the side plates of the bowsprit housing (sort of cranse iron) and just forward of the roller drum, to support the mast when lifting. Sounds complicated but not really! I will send you a photo when itis installed which will be a few weeks yet.
 
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