Ancient self-bailers, evidence of doubtul repairs and water in buoyancy chambers...

Greenheart

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The time of launch draws nearer...(I hope!) It was even sunny today, although temperatures stayed resolutely in single figures. :(

The varied assortment of things that have troubled me about my new old boat, is slimming to a few that might actually cause genuine problems.

My self-bailers are tired and old, and don't lie flush with the hull. Should I haul them out, clean and re-bed them in mastic? Or just replace them?

I suspect someone around the twenty-stone mark must have helmed the boat. Two nearly-invisible cracks in the side-deck widen alarmingly under any serious pressure. Is it something I could solve by injecting epoxy into the cracks?

At some point there seems to have been a serious accident, possibly on the trailer. The 'mend' is very rough and will surely leak...but as I don't mind about compromised performance, will it be enough to sand off the loose paint and cracked filler, then apply new gelcoat? I only want it to be a safe, permanent repair, unlike the dry, crazed, powdery filler there now.

When I tilt the boat back on the trolley, I can hear several litres of water sloshing down the port side buoyancy chamber. I've removed the tiny bungs but I can't locate the water. Any ideas? I'm thinking a thin plastic pipe and a syphon...
 
Dan,

I'd want to know how the water got into the tank !

With a boat like this I'd be inclined to cut and fit an inspection hatch in each side tank in a handy place to get at the trapped water, on a positive note once the leak is stopped this may be useful for stowage, either in the tank or with those sock style stowage jobs they sell to fit inspection hatches - Force 4 sell them.

I was in an Express dinghy once ( diabolical thing, the only dinghy I have not enjoyed sailing ) and the tanks filled when it death-rolled into a capsize, it was no fun at all and put the crew off sailing.

Hard to say about the cracks without being there but epoxy sounds a fair bet, you have to do something.

My chums' 1960's grp Osprey also has a damaged deck / tank top aft, seems quite thin fibreglass; looks like maybe someone's heel hit it in a hectic trapezing moment.

What's wrong with the self bailers ? If the stainless Elvstrom type they should last a million years, maybe a case of cleaning up with Scothbrite ? If their base is below the hull I'd pack them with something like engine gasket material, could use anything, I once cut up a plastic breadboard for fairlead backing pieces, worked a treat.

They do sell bailer service kits if you're feeling flush - pun intended, sorry - try London Yacht Centre.

She's a big boat and you could well do without her capsized half full of water, it's essential to sort out the integrity first.

Also as yours has transom flaps I take it no stern tank and deck then, are you sure she's a Mk 2 ?

Andy
 
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With a boat like this I'd be inclined to cut and fit an inspection hatch in each side tank in a handy place to get at the trapped water, on a positive note once the leak is stopped this may be useful for stowage, either in the tank or with those sock style stowage jobs they sell to fit inspection hatches - Force 4 sell them.

I've got two large soft black plastic circles, c. 100mm dia, in each cockpit bulkhead - and I'd thought they were inspection hatches, but they're sealed...though I can replace them with the hatches easily enough. :)

They do sell bailer service kits if you're feeling flush - pun intended

Mine are seriously gritty and reluctant to lift/drop...and they may also have been damaged - they're not flat-flush when they're raised.

As yours has transom flaps I take it no stern tank and deck then, are you sure she's a Mk 2 ?

Judge for yourself...

View attachment 30551

...I'd say there's no doubt, although a very scruffy (or just unfinished) job has been done to shift water from the cockpit, by cutting out the aft bulkhead...

View attachment 30552

As I may have mentioned, she really wasn't expensive!

View attachment 30553
 
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The self-bailers will probably clean up. Use vaseline on the seal. You'll probably be surprised that they don't leak. I thought mine were jerked, but a bit of a clean-up and they were fine. Good, as new ones are not that cheap.

It may be that the hull deck joint has failed. My Solo did that and scooped water into the buoyancy tank when capsized. I filled the joint with a marine adhesive (Sika would do, I used Sabatack).

But Dan, Just get it on the water. Borrow a buoyancy aid and sail it around a bit. You will probably change you priorities on your to-do list. You're starting to obsess.




Deck Joint gap

hull_deckjointgap.jpg




Filled


hull_deckjointfilled.jpg
 
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It may be that the hull deck joint has failed. My Solo did that and scooped water into the buoyancy tank when capsized. I filled the joint with a marine adhesive (Sika would do, I used Sabatack).

Well guessed. There's definitely evidence of a similar problem and solution having been found some time ago...

...though I don't relish the idea of grinding out the old, hard, cracking fixative. Maybe another case for epoxy, to simply seal the cracks?

I regret not remembering the answer to this, last year...but is there any chance of success, by injecting a limited amount of closed-cell foam into the chambers (taking care not to explode the deck off the hull) to eliminate flooding if (when) I capsize?

I'm not obsessing...I'm just too cold to sail yet. So I may as well put some thought into ensuring the boat's as safe as I can make her, when I do launch. :)
 
Dan,

yes get sailing ASAP, BUT not before sealing at least any obvious leaks !

If the bailers go up and down that seems OK, they'll probably operate better on the water anyway, fit them flush when possible remembering you'll probably require longer machine screws, in a perfect world sawn/angle ground cut afterwards.

Yes she is a Mk2, shame about the aft bulkhead, I'd make a ply door with the transom flap elastic leading through; I used to keep flares, torch, clothes and beer in there on my Osprey !
 
Small leaks are part of sailing in dinks. water splashes over the sides too & you will put a shoe full of water in her every time you step aboard from the water with a beach launch. Expanding foam is heavy & will hold water that gets in, generally not a recommended solution unless as a final desperate way to get another couple of years out of a wel dead boat.

Try to stress a little less & go with the flow. Sailing dinghies is about living for the moment.
 
Small leaks are part of sailing in dinks. water splashes over the sides too & you will put a shoe full of water in her every time you step aboard from the water with a beach launch...Sailing dinghies is about living for the moment.

Very true, I know it. Moving the Osprey on shore yesterday, I was reminded that she'll only ever be a little, lightweight, drip-dry vessel...

...not wholly unlike my Topper thirty years ago...although age and impact didn't seem to wither the polypropylene, it was like tupperware...whereas 40-year-old GRP can show a crusty fragility, and cracks which flake and deteriorate. So I'm keen to get it as good as possible, and now, when it's still too cold for comfortable sailing, must be the time for that...

...I'm not stressed or obsessed with perfect water-tightness...I just don't want the Osp to need towing home or scuppering, after flooding.
 
Dan,

I think you're getting it right, it's easy to say ' just chuck it in the water ', not so easy when spinning off down tide with a heavy, flooded big dinghy !

I was going to say though, forget foam in the tanks, unless you source special closed cell stuff ( I got some from a colleague for my Contender mast but that avenue is gone now ) the usual expanding foam is quite absorbant and also prevents any work on the structure, bad news.

I think what people here are really saying is ' get on with it, we want to hear the results ', in a perfect world you could have a go-pro camera on the front or an arm on the back end, but that would cost more than the boat so words will suffice.
 
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