Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
Doesn't your marina have a skip?Thanks,lots of time for planning …….what todo with a coil of16mm three strand sitting in the middle of the cockpit,horrible stuff that kinks just looking at it!
Doesn't your marina have a skip?Thanks,lots of time for planning …….what todo with a coil of16mm three strand sitting in the middle of the cockpit,horrible stuff that kinks just looking at it!
Wansies boat is a lightweight day sailor with currently no foredeck facilities for anchoring, he by his own admission will not be anchoring in anything but the calmest of conditions and sheltered places.Our second rode was 15m of 6mm chain and 40m of 12mm 3 ply nylon (we preferred a milk crate as it is self draining (and our bow locker conveniently took 2 stacks of 3 crates). But if I wanted to deploy by dinghy it was all neatly coiled. The anchor was stored in the same locker, with its shackle and there was a spare shackle attached to the milk crate.
The length of chain and rope depends on where, how deep, you are likely to anchor.
View attachment 201245
Jonathan
No…..The fish dock is not far I will pop by next time I am there and ask if anybody wants itDoesn't your marina have a skip?
I don't know where Wansy might anchor, deep places can be sheltered and he still needs to attach chain to anchor. But maybe you know what size of anchor he has inherited - sadly I don't.Wansies boat is a lightweight day sailor with currently no foredeck facilities for anchoring, he by his own admission will not be anchoring in anything but the calmest of conditions and sheltered places.
Be carfeful
and maintaining Fr J Hackett's serious theme
The trouble with 6mm chain is finding a shackle that fits with sufficient beef to match your anchor. When you buy the chain take the anchor with you and make sure the shackle matches both (ie fits). You may find you need an Omega Link or Hammerlock to act as an enlarged link to fit the chain and then use a shackle between Omega/Hammerlock and anchor. You can source from any lifting retailer, they are not expensive - but will probably not be galvanised (so treat as consumables - and buy 2). For more detail - ask with a new thread and/or post a pic of the anchor.
Jonathan
I don't know where Wansy might anchor, deep places can be sheltered and he still needs to attach chain to anchor. But maybe you know what size of anchor he has inherited - sadly I don't.. We cruised a J24 - we know the issues.
Will post picture and weight aspBe carfeful
and maintaining Fr J Hackett's serious theme
The trouble with 6mm chain is finding a shackle that fits with sufficient beef to match your anchor. When you buy the chain take the anchor with you and make sure the shackle matches both (ie fits). You may find you need an Omega Link or Hammerlock to act as an enlarged link to fit the chain and then use a shackle between Omega/Hammerlock and anchor. You can source from any lifting retailer, they are not expensive - but will probably not be galvanised (so treat as consumables - and buy 2). For more detail - ask with a new thread and/or post a pic of the anchor.
Jonathan
I don't know where Wansy might anchor, deep places can be sheltered and he still needs to attach chain to anchor. But maybe you know what size of anchor he has inherited - sadly I don't.
J
To be serious, for a bow roller on your boat considering what you are likely to do you could use an open ( not handed ) fairlead simply to keep the rode in place. A single cleat with a reasonable backing piece Plywood will do to secure the rode. An anchor rode of 5M of chain and 30M of 3 strand 12MM nylon or if you feel like pushing the boat out Octoplait ( it coils better) all kept in a bucket as you have no anchor/ chain locker.
Having read Wansies last post then the question of fairleads or indeed any other technical or practical suggestion is wasted and superfluous. He will probably be using a stone with a hole in it for an anchor.I think the bow cleats could act as fairleads.
If the anchor warp is passed round behind the cleat it will act as a fairlead under normal anchoring load. One could joust place some sort of line or loop taken round the anchor warp and the front of the cleat to prevent an unfair old being taken by the pulpit station behind if you ended up ';overtaking' the anchor or facing the wrong way.
It's not clear from the vid, but it appears that the cleat is supported by two pillars, leaving a closed eye (or one could say fairlead!) hole through the lower centre of the cleat. Now it would be a pain having to thread the anchor warp through that, but one could have a rope through that holding the anchor warp on top of the cleat. Or - the deluxe version - securing a short length of pipe, possibly with an opening on the top side, to form a fairlead on top of the cleat when required.
Would a breeze block be okHaving read Wansies last post then the question of fairleads or indeed any other technical or practical suggestion is wasted and superfluous. He will probably be using a stone with a hole in it for an anchor.
A hotly debated topic, its size and rough shape obviously give it some advantage but its low density would appear to be less advantageous than a good bit of basalt or granite, limestone being a little flakey unless some marble can be obtained but there again the preexisting holes in the breeze block make it very attractive to those that eschew the hard work of creating a hole in the harder materials.Would a breeze block be ok![]()
Quite a few years ago I moored to a club mooring in the Ria de Pontevedra which I was assured would hold a 14 tonner .After an alarming message fro the club that the mooring was being dragged around the anchorage I hastily made up another mooring block moulded and cast another on the quay .After both mooring blocks had been repositioned we awaited the next gale …..They didn’t hold so we had to moor up in the marina.I learnt that concrete is not heavy ……underwaterA hotly debated topic, its size and rough shape obviously give it some advantage but its low density would appear to be less advantageous than a good bit of basalt or granite, limestone being a little flakey unless some marble can be obtained but there again the preexisting holes in the breeze block make it very attractive to those that eschew the hard work of creating a hole in the harder materials.
There is an ancient Roman treatise on the subject.
You are Wansey Tillman and I do not claim my free ticket to Greenland on your expedition yachtFound a coil of 12 mm climbing rope inthe shed that Ican join to a length of nylon mooring line found in the boat so will go with what Ihave should be adequate for the ria ,thanks for all suggestions.I even have a plastic boxAt the moment the boat is stearn into the berth but will normally be bows in .Willtry and findsuitable12 mm mooring lines that can be made up for the home berth and carry afew lenghtsto moor up in other local marinas
You are Wansey Tillman and I do not claim my free ticket to Greenland on your expedition yacht
It was inevitable that it was an anchor thread - the queue is waiting for the right comment but Wansworth is dragging it out.An anchor thread! Good oh!![]()
Let out more chain …….It was inevitable that it was an anchor thread - the queue is waiting for the right comment but Wansworth is dragging it out.
You don't have any chainLet out more chain …….
The regulations for Spanish yacht Dont actually specify anchors or anything so technical ……BUT you are mistaken I have at least two meters!You don't have any chain