Anchor windlass

[Cspirit]

As part of my boat refit I intend to fit an electric windlass. Due to the location of the chain locker on this boat, an LM27, it is extremely difficult to find a location for the windlass without sealing up the anchor locker completely and bolting the windlass to a new, strengthened lid. I would prefer to mount the windlass just behind the locker, raising it up a little on a teak block, then allowing the chain to run over the deck for around 100/200mm before entering a deck mounted hawse pipe and then dropping directly into the locker. I have see this done effectively on another LM27 but only with a manual winch which allows the windlass to drop the chain forward rather than down.

So, my question is this - does anyone have experience of an electric windlass, either vertical or horizontal which can drop chain forward rather than down if it is lifted up a little on a wooden plinth?

Thanks in anticipation.......

 

[Norman_E]

This is how I modified my Lofrans Tigress windlass to drop the chain forward instead of down. The original stripper that served to prevent the chain wrapping was cut off, including its mounting point. A new stripper was welded up from 6mm stainless steel, but was not fitted in place when this photo was taken. The modification completely solved the issue of the chain jumping on gypsy because the original wrap was less than 90 degrees.

 

[Arcady]

Gravity is your friend - provided you have enough height in the chain locker. This works for me:

 

[roaringgirl]

Are you sure you want a windlass on a 27ft boat?

 

[Boathook]

Are you sure you want a windlass on a 27ft boat?

As you get older yes .....

 

[roaringgirl]

It's an awful lot of hassle for a new install - deck reinforcement, wiring, battery upgrade

 

[Neeves]

As part of my boat refit I intend to fit an electric windlass. Due to the location of the chain locker on this boat, an LM27, it is extremely difficult to find a location for the windlass without sealing up the anchor locker completely and bolting the windlass to a new, strengthened lid. I would prefer to mount the windlass just behind the locker, raising it up a little on a teak block, then allowing the chain to run over the deck for around 100/200mm before entering a deck mounted hawse pipe and then dropping directly into the locker. I have see this done effectively on another LM27 but only with a manual winch which allows the windlass to drop the chain forward rather than down.

So, my question is this - does anyone have experience of an electric windlass, either vertical or horizontal which can drop chain forward rather than down if it is lifted up a little on a wooden plinth?

Thanks in anticipation.......

You only need 6mm chain on a yacht that size - as Roaring Girl says - do you really need a windlass. 6mm chain is very light (per metre) and is really not difficult to retrieve by hand - even for the aged. I guess easier to handle than raising the mainsail.

I suspect the yacht is equiped with 8mm chain - I'd go into a chandler and 'play with' 6mm and 8mm chain - and maybe re-think.

If you insist on using 8mm chain consider a mixed rode, also easier to retrieve than 100% 8mm

Jonathan

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Lm27 is heavy displacement with plenty of wind age so it’s perfectly reasonable to want a windlass and 8mm chain would be my choice as it is for my twister.
Arcady looks to have a neat solution.

 

[Neeves]

In full cruising mode we are 7t, we are a 38' cat with a 22'6" beam and draw 1m.

We use a 6mm chain, 75m, and an aluminium anchor weight 8kg but of the same size as their steel 15kg cousins.

A LM27 has more windage??!! A Twister has more windage??!!

You already carry plenty of steel around with your keel, there is no reason to compound the problems with carrying extra weight in the form of the rode (and anchors). You simply don't need a heavy rode.


Jonathan

 

[Buck Turgidson]

In full cruising mode we are 7t, we are a 38' cat with a 22'6" beam and draw 1m.

We use a 6mm chain, 75m, and an aluminium anchor weight 8kg but of the same size as their steel 15kg cousins.

A LM27 has more windage??!! A Twister has more windage??!!


View attachment 144494

Jonathan

Never said either had “more windage “ said LM had plenty.
Glad you’re happy with your 6 mm chain. I would recommend 8mm.

It’s not a competition and it’s fine to hold different opinions.

 

[Arcady]

Arcady looks to have a neat solution.

Thank you. I had effectively the same problem as the OP. The windlass motor sits aft of a bulkhead, but the chain needs to be thrown forward of the same bulkhead. It requires a windlass without an incorporated hawse pipe. This is the one I used:

ITALWINCH

 

[salar]

I had a similar challenge on a different boat. I found the best option is to look at vertical capstans because there are likely to be more choices on where the chain exists. On a 25 foot motor cruiser anchoring in strong tides I use a 10kg Delta, about 10 metres of chain and the rest is nylon three strand. Even at my age the winch is a must.

 

[Neeves]

An advantage of smaller chain (or a mixed rode) is not only saving weight but money - but you can have a smaller windlass, smaller motor (though choice of both windlass and motor is part determined by the size/weight of the yacht) thinner power cables, less demand on the batteries (and less need for extra batteries) - but maybe funding is not an issue. A mixed rode is also cheaper (as obviously is a rode of a smaller link).

SALAR - we have a second rode that is mixed 15m of 6mm chain and 40m of 3 ply nylon, not octaplait, (which I hand retrieve) so I don't have experience using the mixed rode with a windlass - but how do you find retrieval of the rope portion (where gravity will not be very useful).

I do agree on age - windlass are maybe not essential - but at any age, of owner, they are a decided convenience and well worth the investment.

Jonathan

 

[pyrojames]

I have much as Arcady does, but with quite a space between horse pipe and windlass. It works ok if you have a good drop to the chain locker, closer together is better.

 

[salar]

SALAR - we have a second rode that is mixed 15m of 6mm chain and 40m of 3 ply nylon, not octaplait, (which I hand retrieve) so I don't have experience using the mixed rode with a windlass - but how do you find retrieval of the rope portion (where gravity will not be very useful).
Jonathan

I have a single capstan, I put two turns around when the rope comes up, tailing it into the locker. As the chain appears I take a turn off and it pulls well with just one turn of chain round the capstan - still tailing by hand into the locker, which is a hatch by the way, not a pipe.

 

[vas]

This is how I modified my Lofrans Tigress windlass to drop the chain forward instead of down. The original stripper that served to prevent the chain wrapping was cut off, including its mounting point. A new stripper was welded up from 6mm stainless steel, but was not fitted in place when this photo was taken. The modification completely solved the issue of the chain jumping on gypsy because the original wrap was less than 90 degrees.

View attachment 144486

nice solution Norman!
may steal a bit the design and shift the anchor locker "hole" forward by 100mm or so as it now drops the chain too much to the back of the fairly shallow locker and it piles up and blocks on retrieval.
just one suggestion (if you haven't done it already!) use some dielec paste to avoid electrolysis on the lofrans ali body. Mine after 30odd years had eaten the metal to the point that the gearcase oil was leaking out at the stripper area, the whole stripper ali base had dissolved!

cheers

V.

 

[Norman_E]

nice solution Norman!
may steal a bit the design and shift the anchor locker "hole" forward by 100mm or so as it now drops the chain too much to the back of the fairly shallow locker and it piles up and blocks on retrieval.
just one suggestion (if you haven't done it already!) use some dielec paste to avoid electrolysis on the lofrans ali body. Mine after 30odd years had eaten the metal to the point that the gearcase oil was leaking out at the stripper area, the whole stripper ali base had dissolved!

cheers

V.

Sadly I no longer have the boat, as I sold it after a couple of bad health scares, followed by the lockdown. The stainless chute was welded up for me by an engineer in Marmaris, and I made a stripper arm for it back at home, and took it to a boat show and placed it next to brand new windlass to check that it would line up correctly. I needed it because my chain was a poor fit on the gypsy because it was actually 3/8 inch chain not not 10mm.
Here it is installed on the boat. It might look a bit crude but it totally prevented the chain links getting stuck.

 

[Neeves]

nice solution Norman!
may steal a bit the design and shift the anchor locker "hole" forward by 100mm or so as it now drops the chain too much to the back of the fairly shallow locker and it piles up and blocks on retrieval.
just one suggestion (if you haven't done it already!) use some dielec paste to avoid electrolysis on the lofrans ali body. Mine after 30odd years had eaten the metal to the point that the gearcase oil was leaking out at the stripper area, the whole stripper ali base had dissolved!

cheers

V.

30 years is a good life for a windlass - you did well. They seem, almost indestructible - if serviced and care taken to minimise electrolysis. The major problems with windlass, according to a manufacturer are:

inadequate, or no, servicing causing problems at the shaft and gearbox. Windlass should be serviced about once every 12 months. They omit to mention electrolysis - sometimes caused by the installer who has never heard of Duralac.

Jonathan

 

[Cspirit]

Many thanks for all your comments and suggestions, and in particular, thanks to Arcady for the heads up regarding the Italwinch. That is just what I was looking for! Do I need a windlass on a 27 ft boat? Perhaps not, but I’m 75 and single handed so I’m going for it. Roaring girl is right to point out the time and complexity involved in installation but I’ve done two before so I know what’s involved. I also think that an electric windlass contributes to boat safety. After nearly 20 years in the Med, anchoring most nights, the facility to re-anchor several time on a dodgy seabed is easy with a windlass and exhausting without. Finally, I agree with those recommending lighter chain. My last boat of 10 tonnes came with 10mm chain. I replaced with a longer, lighter 8 mm and never had any worries - I’m sure that the deck fittings would break before the chain. Thanks again, all.
Bob

 

[Neeves]

I’m sure that the deck fittings would break before the chain. Thanks again, all.
Bob

No need to worry about your chain nor deck fittings they will be stronger than the hold of your anchor

Jonathan