Anchor type and weight for mooring?

GTom

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I plan to move the boat to the Clyde (not decided where exactly) and thinking on building my own mooring. Neither being superman nor having access to a workboat, handling railway wheels would complicate matters for me, but read that some are using multiple anchors instead of one heavy sinker.

The boat is a 33' Westerly, means the mooring should hold 10tons.

My current anchor is a 45lbs CQR, never let me or the previous owner down. I was wondering if 3-4 claw type anchors around 60lbs each, hooked on a heavy chain would do the job? I can dive and dig them in. Question is, in what pattern should the anchors be laid? If I put them in series, one or two might need to reset after strong winds.

Insurance is another matter, haven't asked them about DIY moorings yet...
 

Kelpie

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You really should see what other people do on the same area.
I'd have thought that in the Clyde, anywhere with putting a mooring would be covered by a Moorings Association, and they may well have their own specification to follow, as well as an arrangement with a suitable workboat.
 

GTom

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You really should see what other people do on the same area.
I'd have thought that in the Clyde, anywhere with putting a mooring would be covered by a Moorings Association, and they may well have their own specification to follow, as well as an arrangement with a suitable workboat.
Yes, it is mostly covered and once we decide for an area I'll ask what they recommend. Unfortunately workboats/mooring contractors are on short supply and not quite the same budget as the cost of DIY.
 

duncan99210

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Our mooring on Menai Strait had two anchors, upstream and downstream reversing on every tidal change. The anchors weighed one hundredweight, about 50 kg each, connected by one inch ground chain with 3/4 inch riser.
Exactly what we had down off Indefatigable. Needed the mooring contractor to lift and check them. In contrast, my old mooring in Mylor had a large lump of granite as the weight: again it needed the contractor to deal with it. The club insisted on an annual inspection by the contractor, the cost of which eventually drove me to using the adjacent marina to provide my mooring.
 

Kelpie

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Yes, it is mostly covered and once we decide for an area I'll ask what they recommend. Unfortunately workboats/mooring contractors are on short supply and not quite the same budget as the cost of DIY.

Doesn't have to be a moorings contractor. A fishing boat can handle much bigger gear than you'll ever manage with a yacht. No harm in asking.

FWIW my mooring was £300 secondhand, twin 250kg anchors and 36mm stud link chain. I can't get insurance so didn't want to use anything lighter. Instead of paying premiums each year I buy new shackles, strop, etc.
 

GTom

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Doesn't have to be a moorings contractor. A fishing boat can handle much bigger gear than you'll ever manage with a yacht. No harm in asking.

FWIW my mooring was £300 secondhand, twin 250kg anchors and 36mm stud link chain. I can't get insurance so didn't want to use anything lighter. Instead of paying premiums each year I buy new shackles, strop, etc.
2x250kg anchors (not concrete blocks) sounds pretty solid even on a flat rock bottom.
 

Kelpie

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2x250kg anchors (not concrete blocks) sounds pretty solid even on a flat rock bottom.
Yes, steel mooring anchors. Probably ex fish farm. These days the farms use 750kg anchors, you can sleep pretty well with your boat tied to one of those.
 

Neeves

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I think your problem is not what can you deploy but how are you going to service it once whatever you use is deeply embedded in the Clyde. Vyv's answer is a sensible option or modify it slightly and use 3 anchors, as spokes to a wheel, with a central riser. You can then lay them for both tide and the major prevailing wind. But the components will wear (and corrode) and you will need to service it - you will need someone with a work boat with a decent crane to lift a deeply embedded 'anything'

3 large Danforth types would be my choice, stud link ground chain, central swivel then a short length of chain riser with most of the riser being rope. Laying 2 or 3 anchors of the weight needed (50/100kg), to be centrally connected will need much skill and patience. Having a diver will be very handy.

It is inevitable you will need permission to lay a mooring and that authority (as mentioned) may dictate what you can lay.

Jonathan
 

William_H

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Your mooring should start with chain. As heavy as you can find second hand. The thicker it is the longer it will last. Simplistically an anchor at each end of this chain. The riser comes from the centre. As said real anchors are best Danforth etc but expensive. Unless you can find second hand. An alternative might be fabricated fisherman type anchor. Just have one fluke. Set at an angle or curve like a fisherman's anchor. Might need a cross bar to stop rolling.
from there you can add more chain along the bottom to 2 more anchors all joined at the middle. You might even want to connect a weight to the middle. As heavy as you can manage. This will end up like a lump mass mooring but with anchors to stop sideways movement.
If you go one chain and 2 anchors these should be set to primary load direction. Tide or wind. The middle may be dragged sideways. 4 anchors roughly to 4 different directions locates centre very well.
Essentially it boils down to what iron mongery you can find and components that you can manage weight wise yourself. I found with my little boat that it can lift a lot of weight if you run a bridle under the hull from each jib sheet winch. Just remember heavy chain heavy shackles. The legs and anchors hopefully won't get much movement so not such a wear concern. But do check riser at least annually. ol'will
 

penfold

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Most of the moorings for that size of boat round here(here being the Gareloch) are railway wagon wheels, a bit of a testicle ache to DIY but a few hardy sorts do so.
 
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