Anchor shank too short

mcdonald_ajr

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I'm considering buying a new generation anchor to replace the CQR on my Westerly Storm 33. The problem is that they all seem to have longer tips which will dig into my gelcoat. I like to leave my anchor on the bow roller, ready to deploy quickly, and currently the CQR is locked in place via a drop nose pin through the eye at the end of the anchor shank and into a U-shaped bracket on the deck.

I'd rather not move the bracket, and I don't want to muck about with the bow roller, so the only solution I can come up with is some sort of extension to the anchor shank? I thought about a swivel, but there seems to be debate about the safety of swivels.

Has anyone else overcome this problem?

Thanks, Anthony
 
I always suggest lateral thinking - particularly when it comes to saving money - but how about inverted thinking? I suddenly had a vision of the anchor sitting on the bow roller in the flukes up position, would that be possible?

Rob.
 
I'm considering buying a new generation anchor to replace the CQR on my Westerly Storm 33. The problem is that they all seem to have longer tips which will dig into my gelcoat. I like to leave my anchor on the bow roller, ready to deploy quickly, and currently the CQR is locked in place via a drop nose pin through the eye at the end of the anchor shank and into a U-shaped bracket on the deck.

I'd rather not move the bracket, and I don't want to muck about with the bow roller, so the only solution I can come up with is some sort of extension to the anchor shank? I thought about a swivel, but there seems to be debate about the safety of swivels.

Has anyone else overcome this problem?

Thanks, Anthony

so she has had a CQR for 20 + yrs
Why change
keep the CQR & have a good meal out
 
I had to rescue a boat with a Bruce over the bow roller the other day. It had got tangled in the mooring strop & fallen into the sea, getting thoroughly tangled in the mooring riser as it did so.

I have seen my own CQR lift off the deck several inches in overfalls, so it is never stored on the bow - it is always tucked around the pulpit stanchion & tied down.
 
I'm considering buying a new generation anchor to replace the CQR on my Westerly Storm 33. The problem is that they all seem to have longer tips which will dig into my gelcoat. I like to leave my anchor on the bow roller, ready to deploy quickly, and currently the CQR is locked in place via a drop nose pin through the eye at the end of the anchor shank and into a U-shaped bracket on the deck.

I'd rather not move the bracket, and I don't want to muck about with the bow roller, so the only solution I can come up with is some sort of extension to the anchor shank? I thought about a swivel, but there seems to be debate about the safety of swivels.

Has anyone else overcome this problem?

Thanks, Anthony

I dont see how a longer shank will solve the problem. When the anchor is hauled fully onto the bow roller the tip will still be in the same place and digging into the gelcoat ... you'll just have a longer shank on the deck.

The solution is a stem head fitting designed for the anchor!
One that has the roller further forward so that it holds the anchor tip clear of the bow .

On a similar boat to Searush we always did the same. Lifted the anchor onto the deck and lashed it to the pulpit legs.

Alternatively a stainless steel plate to protect the gelcoat as discussed on another recent thread
 
I'm considering buying a new generation anchor to replace the CQR on my Westerly Storm 33. The problem is that they all seem to have longer tips which will dig into my gelcoat. I like to leave my anchor on the bow roller, ready to deploy quickly, and currently the CQR is locked in place via a drop nose pin through the eye at the end of the anchor shank and into a U-shaped bracket on the deck.

I'd rather not move the bracket, and I don't want to muck about with the bow roller, so the only solution I can come up with is some sort of extension to the anchor shank? I thought about a swivel, but there seems to be debate about the safety of swivels.

Has anyone else overcome this problem?

Thanks, Anthony

I have a Westerly Sealord.
The solution to your problem is an easy one.
Use some cord to prevent pecking.
Do this by lifting the fluke away from the bow under the roller to a skewed position.
Pass the cord though the gap between the flukes and the bar across them and round a cleat or even the windlass to immobilise the fluke. Make two or three turns and heave tight. This will stop the pecking in any weather.
Make a knot easy to undo when you need to deploy.
 
Pass the cord though the gap between the flukes and the bar across them and round a cleat or even the windlass to immobilise the fluke.

Sounds like you're thinking of a CQR. His CQR is fine, it's the new anchors like Spades and Deltas that might be a problem.

Pete
 
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