Anchor rope

M

mick

Well-Known Member
Joined
10 Aug 2001
Messages
933
Location
Clyde
Visit site
I have a Sadler 26 with 30m of 8mm anchor chain and wish, for various reasons, to add 30 m of rope. Which is best(I'm not looking for cheapest) - anchorplait nylon, 3-strand nylon, 3-strand polyester? Diameter? I like the idea of splicing direct to chain. Is this stronger than using a thimble/shackle combination. I know the largest diameter rope would be 14mm spliced to 8mm chain, but if necessary I could add a few metres of 10mm chain in order to splice in a heavier rope, say 16mm. All suggestions gratefully received.
 
I'm not sure but I would have thought that a splice to chain was about as strong as a thimble and shackle, assuming you were back splicing to the thimble.

We have nylon multiplait as part of our rode. I regret it because it abrades quite easily in the gypsy on the windlass. However if you are hand hauling it may be best for you as it does have the advantage of flaking very easily compared to 3 strand. It can be spliced to chain as well as three strand (though not by me!).
 
Since you have 30mtrs chain on a 26ft boat, any rope you add will rarely go in the water.
Octoplait is nicer to handle but if it's going to live under the chain most of the time, three
strand nylon will do.
Whether you splice or shackle it on, depends on the size of the bow roller and presence
or abscence of windlass and "spout"! Shackle and eye is stronger and simpler.
 
I've about the same setup on a 27 footer...but with a hawse pipe which I don't think you have on the Sadler 26 (anchor well?). Personally I keep 30m of three-strand nylon in the cockpit locker, ready with a shackle to go onto the chain end once it's out of the pipe if needed (putting the chain around a cleat first!!) . It's useful to have this line available for other purposes rather than sitting as dead weight up on the bow under piles of chain IMHO. It's also ready to go onto the kedge anchor chain in the same way.
 
I originally spliced Anchorplait onto 8mm chain but then knackered the electric windlass, as the rope is that much more "floppy" and the join refused to go through the hole into the anchor locker. Reverted back to 3 strand nylon which works fine and is easier to splice anyway.
Agree that if you are anchoring without a windlass then anchorplait is much nicer to handle.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Personally I keep 30m of three-strand nylon in the cockpit locker, ready with a shackle to go onto the chain end once it's out of the pipe if needed (putting the chain around a cleat first!!)

[/ QUOTE ]

That sounds like a recipe for disaster to me, especially in the dark during a storm with the anchor dragging - rather you than me.
 
Having used 3 strand and anchorplait. I am convinced about the merits of anchorplait. For those who complain about the wear of anchorplait round a multi-purpose gypsy - What did you expect!

I have a drum for the rope and a gypsy for the chain. Thats what they are designed for, and what is best for the job.

Nylon is the best for an anchor cable to provide the elasticity needed to deal with bad weather loading shocks, but naturally this is more susceptible to chafe than a non-stretch rope or chain, so chafe protection is needed.
 
I'd recommend using anchorplait, 14mm fits onto 8mm chain ideally is easy to handle and more than strong enough.
I've got 40m of rope on 65m of chain - only have to use rope for deep anchorages such as off la Coruna, Nisida etc where you've more than 20m of depth.

For instructions on splicing go to Samson Rope Technology website (or Jimmy Green Marine).
 
14mm rope is a good match to 8mm chain, both of which are more than adequate for a 27. I would have suggested 7mm to 12mm personally.

Done correctly there is no strength differance between a rope to chain splice and a thimble spliced on.

A 'back splice' to the chain is better than a 'down the chain' splice for many reasons, not that the other is bad just the back splice is easier to get a safer result for most people. Also less prone to damaging winches.

Most ropes will 'fur up' a bit when used around a Auto rope to chain winch. This is actually good for the rope and will make it last a bit better. Most will notice the rope furs up quite quick then stops, this is good. If it keeps going you may have a problem. NOTE: furring does not mean big lumps hanging off.

Most important - buy any 'cheap' rope and it will give you grief. Spent the extra for $$'s and you won't regret it. Don't forget anchor ropes will help keep you alive while your asleep.
 
[ QUOTE ]
A 'back splice' to the chain is better than a 'down the chain' splice for many reasons, not that the other is bad just the back splice is easier to get a safer result for most people. Also less prone to damaging winches.

[/ QUOTE ]

it has been suggested (on here previously) that it is significantly weaker.

agree it's less likely to snag the splitter traveling either way on the winch

finally the anchorplait to chain splice must be about the easiest splice in the book using instructions like those linked above on Bluemoment
 
Splicing ...

The best and strongest is the eye splice and thimble method. Because the rope is close laid and spliced tight. Second the thimble takes the abrasion of the chain and not the rope to chain.
But it needs care in use if you have a windlass.

The Backsplice to chain is a good tight and strong splice - but relies on a rope to chain contact that is prone to abrasion and wear. You also have to decide on method of passing rope through the link ... to gain best advantage.

Last is the splice rope to chain where the rope basically follows down the links of the chain. This is excellent and if done well can allow the chain / rope to work a windlass with care. But it has a construction factor that reduces its overall strength. In following the chain links it opens up the rope and gives away a ropes friction in the lay. This is what makes arope work ... the twist of fibres into strands into rope with all the increased friction etc. Open up the rope and you start to lose this factor.

There is another way which is rarely seen .... but works. There are chain joiners that are based on two sides with threaded pins going through. This allows a smaller thimble to be used and therefore rope / thimble combination is enclosed in the joint..... without being so proud as with a chain link. The other end of the joiner obviously is to the chain. A much smoother and easier way to do it .... Dunno why it's not done more ?????
 
Re: Splicing ...

as is customary - first the agreement /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

eye splice to appropriately sized (for rope) thimble to shackle (siezed etc etc) to chain will be strongest - no argument there! Never suggested otherwise.

Still not sure whether you are suggesting that the back splice direct to chain will be stronger or weaker than a chain splice - I take the inference from your post's order that you believe that on day one the back splice would be stronger but that there are factors (often hidden in day to day use) that would result in it's detioration. Finally you suggest that unlaying anchorplait to it's 8 initial pieces, and in so ding taking the twist out of those 8 too, will result in an inherently weaker rope. I would be surprised at this but would welcome any other contributions on the subject. Ultimate strength not anything elasticity related!.
What I am sure about is that (1) you will struggle to get 14mm anchorplait through an 8mm chain link for a back splice (2) if you did the stress you are putting on by bending it back around an 8mm diameter wire will put significant weakness into the whole thing - I can give you the analogy of braided (and other lines) in fishing where improved production techniques enabled the production of smaller adn smaller swivels for any given BS - however the attachment of the small swivels, with small diameter wire, used to destroy the BS of the line and make a mockery of 'knot strength'. Increasing the wire diameter even a little paid huge strength dividends, as does using a round turn and non strangulation knots but that's a digression too far..............

In practice, and this may be what your final point alludes too but I got a little lost, using a thimble with an ID of say 10mm and a 10mm wire link to attach to the chain could be a good compromise however I would suggest that the working strength of the chain splice will far exceed the holding strength of any anchor deployed on this boat so why complicate things?
 
Re: Splicing ...

First /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

No problem ... what I was doing was highlighting some of the areas of splicing - being an old salt so to speak.

I agree with you totally about bends / turns in rope seriously weakening ... I can give you examples of ships mooring lines parting at fairleads - because they were subject to significant changes of direction.

As to untwisting a rope weakens it - Fact. A rope gets its strength from the twist and lay of the fibres and strands. Ok ... let me illustrate .... take a traditional Hemp or Coir rope .... the fibres are actually quite short and are twisted up into strands to then be twisted in reverse to form the rope. keep the rope firm and lay#d up and it will have strength. Unlay the starnds and fibres start to fall out / untwist etc. Strength is visibly disapearing. You can re-lay that rope as all seaman are taught - but the machined strength has gone.

Anyway - your comment about strength of rope against anchoring needs is valid - we all carry rodes that really are often over-sized but are comfortable to handle. (Ignore excessive weather / other conditions here of course ....)

With reference to the backsplice to chain ... the inside of the rope turn through the chain would be subject to serious chafe and wear ... often not seen until too late.

Who mentioned Wire-links ??? I would never ever use a wire link or similar on a rope to chain .... that is surely going to make it worse not better. To be honest the only rope to chain I use is on the bitter end inside the locker ... just long enough for joint + a foot to exit onto deck so I can cut it if necessary.

I have made chain to rope splices for many others who have asked in clubs etc. - and would say that they all do the job ... it is personal preference at end of day ... Me ? I use all chain anyway ...


/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Having switched from power to sail recently, I do not see why yachts need all chain. I have 30m of chain on my 25ft yacht. My powerboat experience is that 5 metres of chain is enough to keep the anchor flat and the rest can be rope, which is lighter and easier to hand haul. Is this something to do with anchoring in windy weather? Or do yachts need much more chain than an 17ft power boat anchoring in strong tides, but calm weather?
 
I had a 26' for many years and decided to go for 3 strand nylon kept in a deck locker for general use as well as extra anchor rode when required. I'm sure that was the right decision and would do the same again BUT I would use anchorplait every time, now. In fact we use black anchorplait for our mooring/dock lines -looks smart, feels nice, easy on the crew and is high performance. I have had no trouble splicing thimbles onto anchorplait (just followed the instructions, and I am no old salt when it comes to ropes, knots and splices!.

There are so many times when a good long line is essential for safety and you don't want that lovely length of decent rope spliced to the end of a chain!! Nigel is right about the knots, strength, etc., so think that through but don't splice it onto the chain - not on a 26 footer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top