Anchor rode.

[noelex]

As said, my bent link is made out of round bar, so it doesn't matter which way it lies. I've used it without any problem for the last ten years or so. Why wouldn't you use one overnight?

The more streamlined shape of the round bar removes the the problem of a large flat plate reducing the ability of the anchor to bury. The round anchor straighteners also usually incorporate a swivel, which can be useful in reducing the rare problem of chain twist.

However, the round models I have seen have been poorly engineered. Perhaps better models exist, but I have not seen them, hence my reluctance to recommend these products.

The KISS aproach of large good quality anchor connected to an all chain rode as simply as possible, is a great solution for most cruising boats. There can be occasional issues with chain twist, so adding a good quality swivel is sometimes sensible.

With a simple, quality, load rated shackle connecting the anchor there are also fewer components to hang up or jam. Jamming of the anchor chain connection, creating an unfair load direction is fortunately a rare problem, but can cause even good anchors to unexpectedly drag with a windshift. This can occur even with a single shackle, but the added complication of a flat plate and multiple shackles increases the risk.

There are some simple techniques for straightening the anchor on retrieval.

 

[NormanS]

The more streamlined shape of the round bar removes the the problem of a large flat plate reducing the ability of the anchor to bury. The round anchor straighteners also usually incorporate a swivel, which can be useful in reducing the rare problem of chain twist.

However, the round models I have seen have been poorly engineered. Perhaps better models exist, but I have not seen them, hence my reluctance to recommend these products.

The KISS aproach of large good quality anchor connected to an all chain rode as simply as possible, is a great solution for most cruising boats. There can be occasional issues with chain twist, so adding a good quality swivel is sometimes sensible.

With a simple, quality, load rated shackle connecting the anchor there are also fewer components to hang up or jam. Jamming of the anchor chain connection, creating an unfair load direction is fortunately a rare problem, but can cause even good anchors to unexpectedly drag with a windshift. This can occur even with a single shackle, but the added complication of a flat plate and multiple shackles increases the risk.

There are some simple techniques for straightening the anchor on retrieval.

I fail to see how a swivel can ensure that the anchor comes into the roller in the correct orientation. OK, it means you can lean over and poke about with a boathook to turn the anchor. Why do that when all it needs is a short rod with a bend in it, and an eye on each end? It automatically rotates the anchor correctly.

A bent link cannot be used in some applications. You need enough length between bow roller and gypsy, and it won't work with a roller mounted on a vertical stem, because there will be insufficient space for a rotating anchor. With our previous boat of 60ft, with a practically straight stem, we had to stop heaving when the anchor was just beneath the stem, and if necessary, rotate the chain with a "poker". That required a bit of effort with a 140lb anchor.

 

[noelex]

I fail to see how a swivel can ensure that the anchor comes into the roller in the correct orientation. OK, it means you can lean over and poke about with a boathook to turn the anchor. Why do that when all it needs is a short rod with a bend in it, and an eye on each end? It automatically rotates the anchor correctly.

I agree, a conventional swivel does not ensure the anchor is in the correct orientation. The swivel is some help flipping the anchor, but its main function is to eliminate the (fortunately rare) problem of chain twist.

A bent shackle usually does a good job of flipping the anchor to the correct orientation, but there are other simple techniques that work well without any risk of compromising the anchor performance.

 

[NormanS]

I agree, a conventional swivel does not ensure the anchor is in the correct orientation. The swivel is some help flipping the anchor, but its main function is to eliminate the (fortunately rare) problem of chain twist.

A bent shackle usually does a good job of flipping the anchor to the correct orientation, but there are other simple techniques that work well without any risk of compromising the anchor performance.

I have no idea what you mean by a bent shackle, or how it would work.
Maybe you could itemise some of the "other simple techniques", so that we can all benefit.

 

[Bristolfashion]

According to OED, Bristol fashion is two words.

Not, I'm afraid, when it's a forum handle, which can be any format one wishes - otherwise I would admonish you for not being "thin water"

 

[thinwater]

Not, I'm afraid, when it's a forum handle, which can be any format one wishes - otherwise I would admonish you for not being "thin water"

Touche'! Missed that.

 

[noelex]

I have no idea what you mean by a bent shackle, or how it would work.

Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to an “Anchor Straightener”, sometimes called a “Chain Twist Connector” or “Anchor Turner” or “Anchor Flipper”. There are also “Flip Swivels” that use a different mechanism, but achieve the same goal. Whatever you call them, all these devices do work well at ensuring the correct anchor orientation.

Maybe you could itemise some of the "other simple techniques", so that we can all benefit.

There are some simple techniques that straighten the anchor without the complication and compromises of the above devices.

Firstly, with concave designs try and avoid moving forward as you retrieve the anchor. With most modern designs the water flow will cause the anchor to rotate backwards. Conversely, simply having slight stern way will correctly orient most concave designs. The second trick is to time the retrieval correctly. As the anchor is retrieved it will tend to rotate to wind out the twist in the chain caused by the boat’s rotation at anchor. With practice you can adjust the speed of retrieval so the anchor arrives at the bow roller facing the correct orientation. I am sure there are many other solutions.

The design of the bow roller is also important. A large bow roller will usually flip over the anchor quite successfully. A large bow roller also reduces the friction, increasing the effective windlass power and is often stronger and more durable so ensuring an anchor roller of adequate size has other advantages. The shape of the roller also plays a role in aligning the chain (and hence the anchor) correctly.

At least try some the above techniques and modifications before resorting to secondary devices.

 

[NormanS]

Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to an “Anchor Straightener”, sometimes called a “Chain Twist Connector” or “Anchor Turner” or “Anchor Flipper”. There are also “Flip Swivels” that use a different mechanism, but achieve the same goal. Whatever you call them, all these devices do work well at ensuring the correct anchor orientation.



There are some simple techniques that straighten the anchor without the complication and compromises of the above devices.

Firstly, with concave designs try and avoid moving forward as you retrieve the anchor. With most modern designs the water flow will cause the anchor to rotate backwards. Conversely, simply having slight stern way will correctly orient most concave designs. The second trick is to time the retrieval correctly. As the anchor is retrieved it will tend to rotate to wind out the twist in the chain caused by the boat’s rotation at anchor. With practice you can adjust the speed of retrieval so the anchor arrives at the bow roller facing the correct orientation. I am sure there are many other solutions.

The design of the bow roller is also important. A large bow roller will usually flip over the anchor quite successfully. A large bow roller also reduces the friction, increasing the effective windlass power and is often stronger and more durable so ensuring an anchor roller of adequate size has other advantages. The shape of the roller also plays a role in aligning the chain (and hence the anchor) correctly.

At least try some the above techniques and modifications before resorting to secondary devices.

I should have made clear that my bent link does not incorporate a swivel. Indeed in my own humble opinion, a swivel is absolutely unnecessary, and a danger to the integrity of the rode. My bent link is merely a rod with a bend in it, with an eye on each end. No frills.
Over years of anchoring, trying all the methods that you suggest, without dependable success, I made my bent link, and it has been a revelation, with 100% result. My wife, who normally deals with anchoring, is delighted.
I very much agree about the size of bow rollers. Looking at many other boats, it's as if little or no thought had been given to actual anchoring. Many are far too small in both diameter and width. My (chain) bow roller is 120mm overall diameter, with an effective diameter of 100mm. It is also 76mm wide, giving plenty of space between the jaws to accommodate adequate sized shackles.

 

[Neeves]

The depth of bury and hence the holding power of the anchor is reduced by any extra resistance on the anchor to chain connection.

The Boomerang introduces an extra shackle and a wide, flat plate, and these elements have the potential to significantly reduce the anchor’s holding ability. I have observed a lot of anchors underwater and the contention that the flat plate remains constantly vertical seems unlikely. Even if it only occasionally sits other than absolutely vertical, this loss in holding power is a concern. The manufacturer’s website has a photograph of the Boomarang sitting in the horizontal position.

Personally I would not use a Boomarang or even the more common, streamlined round anchor straightener on my anchor, at least for overnight anchoring.

As some one who observed his own anchor for years and produced a huge photo album of it set it is extraordinary you did not mention, once, that it set shallow 16 degrees vs 30 degrees for other anchors. Either you powers of observation are completely lacking or you had another agenda. On the basis your observation where 'honest' and you simply did not notice then I have to query any other conclusion you might come to. You have consistently criticised convex anchors and it must have been frustrating for you that Panope was so much in favour.

No-one is asking you to use a Boomerang or anything like one. However you might make note that other people do use them so, if you were to have an open mind, instead of simply being critical about something of which you might know nothing, then maybe you would learn.

You appear to have shot youyself in the foot over the characterristics of your own anchor - I'm not sure why anyone would take too much notice of what you say - until such time as you can advise why your anchor is as good as a Rocna yet the Rocna has twice the holding capacity. I am sure forum members would value your detailed description of why your Mantus with half the hold can be as good as a Rocna.

So lets start there before you fantasia about other products you have never tested.

Not that I expect you to comment - like some political leaders you like to make statements you cannot support. Fortunately the membership based here is of an intelligent and enquiring nature - so in the spirit of data, information and knowledge - why don't you alter the practice time of a lifetime and show us some expertise.

Maybe you should read this article.

An Inquiry into Anchor Angles - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

The swivel is some help flipping the anchor, but its main function is to eliminate the (fortunately rare) problem of chain twist.

Possibly you can also provide detail of how a swivel reduces chain twist.

Tests I have conducted show that under an tension, in the case where the swivel is off the seabed, the best you will achieve is remain with at least 7 twists. If the swivel is one the seabed it does not matter how many twists you have the swivel will not allow the chain to untwist. Most twists will 'fall out' by themselves when the anchor is freely suspended from the bow roller - its a combination of gravity and torque.

So if you think this is the main function of a swivel - I think people would b e well advised to dump them - as they simply do not work.

Maybe as introduction you should read this, there is more on swivels (which I a sure you can find)

How Well Do Swivels Reduce Twist? - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

Firstly, with concave designs try and avoid moving forward as you retrieve the anchor. With most modern designs the water flow will cause the anchor to rotate backwards. Conversely, simply having slight stern way will correctly orient most concave designs. The second trick is to time the retrieval correctly. As the anchor is retrieved it will tend to rotate to wind out the twist in the chain caused by the boat’s rotation at anchor. With practice you can adjust the speed of retrieval so the anchor arrives at the bow roller facing the correct orientation. I am sure there are many other solutions.


At least try some the above techniques and modifications before resorting to secondary devices.

In the interests of safety can you confirm, having tested tham all, that all concave designs, Rocna, Bruce, Supreme, Spade (steel and alloy), Vulcan, Viking, Boss (and any I might have missed) all behave as you suggest. I can confirm that Mantus does behave as you suggest as the idea that some anchors a re hydro dynamic was first mentioned there when Mantus was reviewed.

I actually wonder about this idea that if you use the hydrodynamic benefits that might be evident for, say a Mantus, how this balances with allowing the twists in the rode to fall out due to torque and gravity - and some speed the hydro dymaninc benefit will retard the value of torque. I am sure as an anchor guru you will have elavlauted this - as you have set yourself up as something of an expert - s can we enjoy your test protocols.


I just wonder if you have actually followed your own advice for 'all' concave anchors' when you provided your theory described in you first paragraph - it might be correct that ALL concave anchors are hydro dynamic - but I don't know and would not pontificate until I had tested the concept.

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

The Boomerang introduces an extra shackle and a wide, flat plate, and these elements have the potential to significantly reduce the anchor’s holding ability. I have observed a lot of anchors underwater and the contention that the flat plate remains constantly vertical seems unlikely. Even if it only occasionally sits other than absolutely vertical, this loss in holding power is a concern. The manufacturer’s website has a photograph of the Boomarang sitting in the horizontal position.

Just to add some further balance to the repetitive trolling - I can only think it is trolling as there has been not an iota of evidence proffered to support the wildly imaginative but incorrect statements.

But

If you were advertising a boomerang an image of one buried will simply show - nothing. It offers no evidence that the item can be buried and buried vertically. If you want to show a Boomerang as part of the rode assembly the only way to do so is to have it deployed 'in the open'' - and surprise surprise if the Boomerang is not under tension - it will lie flat - but as Thinwater posted will orientate vertically if attached) correctly and tension applied.

I have pictures of a buried Boomerangs which are part of a future article in Practical Sailor (on shackle angles) - the Boomerang being part of the images are because - we use one every time we anchor. - but PS want original work, so I'm unable to publish here until such times as PS publish. I spent days making various deployments with a variety of Boomerangs, I have a number of prototypes I can use, and then waiting for the tide to recede and digging the rode out - carefully. You need to take my word for it, and that of Thinwater, until the article is published. Furthermore I'm not advertising, not spruiking, on behalf of anyone. The article on Boomerangs in Cruising Helmsman is open source, simply google 'Boomerang your anchor' and its there for anyone to read and copy. Viking took advantage of the opportunity and I am more than happy to support what has been published.

And in case anyone is in any doubt - I detest trolling and repetitive trolling. I am the first to accept criticism and will take it on board and improve on my ideas. But trolling with no basis apart from some ulterior motive is not something I can support. As for Noelex ability to assess underwater performance of anchors.....

I'm still waiting to read how the guru missed the performance characteristics of his own anchor - until I see a plausible explanation then any negative comment by him on anchoring or anchors is simply just another troll and I will treat with the contempt it deserves and be vocal in my condemnations.

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

Thank you Neeves, "Boomerang" ordered.

Lucy,

I like to make sure anything I'm involved with works as it is meant to work.

When you receive your Boomerang - if you have any issues let me know and I'll send any data and images of installation in which I have been previously involved to you to help over come any issues. If you want to send me an air ticket - don't waste your time, international travel to and from Oz is banned, under Covid restrictions .

I don't know what size you ordered, not knowing what size of chain you use, but the original drawings are based on 8mm chain, which is what I was using then, and the shackles holes neatly take 3/8th" shackles. Obviously use rated shackles but they don't need to be top of the range Crosby shackles as they are only used in, straight line, tension.

Since moving to 6mm chain I built a new Boomerang with slots to take Omega links, rather than shackles. Very few use Omega links, which are smaller than shackles but not quite so convenient to use, so a Boomerang using these dev ices is not commercially feasible. I have sent Omega links to forum members (as I have them specially galvanised coated here) - if it looks interesting when you get your Boomerang.

Jonathan

 

[Lucy52]

Thanks Neeves, I have 8mm chain on a 6 ton boat so ordered the 8mm boomerang. It will probably arrive next week. Do I need to treat it like a swivel and put three links in between it and the anchor or leave it to articulate on a shackle? Is a bow or a D shackle preferred?

 

[Neeves]

Thanks Neeves, I have 8mm chain on a 6 ton boat so ordered the 8mm boomerang. It will probably arrive next week. Do I need to treat it like a swivel and put three links in between it and the anchor or leave it to articulate on a shackle? Is a bow or a D shackle preferred?

The installation instructions I have used and suggest are all in here:

How to boomerang your anchor right back at you - MySailing.com.au

You will need, bolt croppers, shackles, mousing wire, shackle key and maybe Loctite (all of which you carry as part of your 'tool kit' . (For us I live in hope we never need the bolt croppers for anything more drastic!)..

When the boomerang comes over the bow roller and if the anchor is inverted then the long arm of the boomerang is unbalanced by the offset weight of the anchor acting on the short arm. This flips the boomerang so that the short arm 'hangs down' - and then the anchor will be right way up. This all happens quickly, dependent on the speed of your windlass, and if the anchor was inverted it now swings side to side. I advocate some links between Boomerang and anchor simply to allow those gyrations to subside. Much depends on your bow arrangment but the more links you can incorporate between boomerang and anchor, the better. But some windlass are so near the bow there is little room and the number of links between boomerang and anchor is controlled by the space available. You can attach the boomerang direct to the anchor with a shackle, bow through anchor slot. But the Boomerang is designed to take a shackle eye through each slot allowing you to fit a shackle pin through the chain links between boomerang and anchor. For a 8mm chain you should be using a Crosby G209a 3/8th" shackle at the anchor (bow through slot). This shackle has a 2t WLL and if it locks into the slot (it can happen) the WLL can be reduced by 50% (so now its a 1t WLL) but this will be higher than both a G30 or G40 chain - so the shackle is not the weak link. I am sure you can source Crosby shackles from a variety of 'retail' outlets but I have used Tecni in the UK. The shackles for the Boomerang will also be 3/8th" and can be G209 shackles, WLL of 1t, or CMP Titan Yellow Pin shackles also WLL 1t (available from most UK chandlers). I worry that on a dark, wet windy night and there is need to change something on the bow that the wrong shackles are used - so all our anchor shackles are G209a quality - and then there is no room for error (but extra expense). You could use CMP Titan Black Pin shackles but they are rated to 2 short tons - and because this is not clear I don't recommend them as people might think its 2 metric tons. You could use bow or 'D' shackles for the Boomerang as the shackles are only in tension and should never lock up. But in the same way I only use bow G209a shackles I don't use nor carry 'D' shackles. Our shackles are thus all the same quality and all the same shape and are interchangeable. There are other sources of shackles of a quality similar to Crosby's G209a shackles (designated Grade B shackles) and supplied by Peerless, Campbell (both of the US) and Yoke (of Taiwan) but I simply don't know how to source them in the UK (nor Australia). I'm 'known' to these other sources and can access and have tested them (they are all good) but unless you know someone in America or Taiwan they are, basically, unobtainable.

When you attach the Boomerang to the rode - note the orientation of the links at the gypsy, some are vertical, some are horizontal. The vertical ones should stay vertical all the way to the shackle at the anchor. As the anchor has a bow shackle through the slot and it is horizontal then the first chain link will be vertical and this pattern should extend to the windlass. The shackles at the Boomerang will also be horizontal, so the link at the anchor 'end' of the Boomerang (short arm) will be vertical, the shackle at the windlass end will be horizontal (so link vertical etc). Its all very simple, KISS.

If you look at the pictures in the article you will see this pattern of the vertical links.

Our windlass is very, very quick and we have marked our chain at 1m from the Boomerang. We know exactly when the Boomerang will arrive at the bow roller, we know that we need to be ready to stop the windlass - or the anchor is housed, very, tight on the bow roller (not doing the windlass any favours).

We do not rely on the windlass clutch to secure the anchor but use a simple chain lock (attached to an independent strong point) - but you could lash the anchor. Clutches slip and having all your rode hanging off your bow might be embarassing

If you assemble, if you need comment when the Boomerang arrives, just ask - but when it is installed, and correctly, you will be able to retrieve the anchor from the helm knowing it will be housed snugly and once you have cleared other anchored yachts you can secure the anchor, lash, chain lock etc, at your leisure. There should be no need, ever, for any manual intervention to house the anchor.

Apologies to NormanS for this being, as usual, long and wordy - if that's the only criticism - I'll sleep soundly!

Jonathan

 

[NormanS]

The installation instructions I have used and suggest are all in here:

How to boomerang your anchor right back at you - MySailing.com.au

You will need, bolt croppers, shackles, mousing wire, shackle key and maybe Loctite (all of which you carry as part of your 'tool kit' . (For us I live in hope we never need the bolt croppers for anything more drastic!)..

When the boomerang comes over the bow roller and if the anchor is inverted then the long arm of the boomerang is unbalanced by the offset weight of the anchor acting on the short arm. This flips the boomerang so that the short arm 'hangs down' - and then the anchor will be right way up. This all happens quickly, dependent on the speed of your windlass, and if the anchor was inverted it now swings side to side. I advocate some links between Boomerang and anchor simply to allow those gyrations to subside. Much depends on your bow arrangment but the more links you can incorporate between boomerang and anchor, the better. But some windlass are so near the bow there is little room and the number of links between boomerang and anchor is controlled by the space available. You can attach the boomerang direct to the anchor with a shackle, bow through anchor slot. But the Boomerang is designed to take a shackle eye through each slot allowing you to fit a shackle pin through the chain links between boomerang and anchor. For a 8mm chain you should be using a Crosby G209a 3/8th" shackle at the anchor (bow through slot). This shackle has a 2t WLL and if it locks into the slot (it can happen) the WLL can be reduced by 50% (so now its a 1t WLL) but this will be higher than both a G30 or G40 chain - so the shackle is not the weak link. I am sure you can source Crosby shackles from a variety of 'retail' outlets but I have used Tecni in the UK. The shackles for the Boomerang will also be 3/8th" and can be G209 shackles, WLL of 1t, or CMP Titan Yellow Pin shackles also WLL 1t (available from most UK chandlers). I worry that on a dark, wet windy night and there is need to change something on the bow that the wrong shackles are used - so all our anchor shackles are G209a quality - and then there is no room for error (but extra expense). You could use CMP Titan Black Pin shackles but they are rated to 2 short tons - and because this is not clear I don't recommend them as people might think its 2 metric tons. You could use bow or 'D' shackles for the Boomerang as the shackles are only in tension and should never lock up. But in the same way I only use bow G209a shackles I don't use nor carry 'D' shackles. Our shackles are thus all the same quality and all the same shape and are interchangeable. There are other sources of shackles of a quality similar to Crosby's G209a shackles (designated Grade B shackles) and supplied by Peerless, Campbell (both of the US) and Yoke (of Taiwan) but I simply don't know how to source them in the UK (nor Australia). I'm 'known' to these other sources and can access and have tested them (they are all good) but unless you know someone in America or Taiwan they are, basically, unobtainable.

When you attach the Boomerang to the rode - note the orientation of the links at the gypsy, some are vertical, some are horizontal. The vertical ones should stay vertical all the way to the shackle at the anchor. As the anchor has a bow shackle through the slot and it is horizontal then the first chain link will be vertical and this pattern should extend to the windlass. The shackles at the Boomerang will also be horizontal, so the link at the anchor 'end' of the Boomerang (short arm) will be vertical, the shackle at the windlass end will be horizontal (so link vertical etc). Its all very simple, KISS.

If you look at the pictures in the article you will see this pattern of the vertical links.

Our windlass is very, very quick and we have marked our chain at 1m from the Boomerang. We know exactly when the Boomerang will arrive at the bow roller, we know that we need to be ready to stop the windlass - or the anchor is housed, very, tight on the bow roller (not doing the windlass any favours).

We do not rely on the windlass clutch to secure the anchor but use a simple chain lock (attached to an independent strong point) - but you could lash the anchor. Clutches slip and having all your rode hanging off your bow might be embarassing

If you assemble, if you need comment when the Boomerang arrives, just ask - but when it is installed, and correctly, you will be able to retrieve the anchor from the helm knowing it will be housed snugly and once you have cleared other anchored yachts you can secure the anchor, lash, chain lock etc, at your leisure. There should be no need, ever, for any manual intervention to house the anchor.

Apologies to NormanS for this being, as usual, long and wordy - if that's the only criticism - I'll sleep soundly!

Jonathan

That's OK Jonathan, I've ploughed through it ?
A small point of possible interest. When I first made and fitted my bent link, it was shackled direct to the anchor (with a bow shackle). Very occasionally (maybe three times in ten years), when the anchor came up, the link was jammed backwards against the anchor, normally cleared by dropping the anchor swiftly to the bottom, and then lifting it again. Even just for this reason, it's well worth while fitting three links between the anchor and the link. Apart from any other benefit, it ensures that the link can't jamb. I appreciate that not all windlass installations give enough space for this, but if it's possible, it's worth while.
Naturally, I still think that a round bar link will rotate better than something made out of flat plate, particularly if the bow roller has a groove for the chain. I am still bemused by the need for the "boomerang" to have a long leg and a short leg. That seems to me to be an unnecessary complication. As you know, my bent link is simply a short length of rod with an eye on each end, with a bend in the middle. Absolute simplicity.

 

[Neeves]

I would not dismiss the benefits of your design nor method of manufacture, I have not tried it (and I don't weld) and not having tried it I have an open mind. But drilling is within the capabilities of most and as a simple manufacturing option for someone with a kitchen table it (drilling) seemed the best option. There is nothing 'less simple' about one long and one short arm. I suspect if you are going to bend a steel rod - its easier to do so in the middle than try and do so at one end. Horses for courses .

As Lucy might comment in the future, an unbiased input will be interesting - though given its winter with you - we might need to be patient.

I do know that the Oscalutti link, which has a fork at one end, if the fork in attached direct to the shank can lock vertically (or at right angles to the shank) with potentially disastrous consequences. And I'd not say never but would suggest some articulation (more than a shackle) between shank and Boomerang.

I have checked and the Boomerang works well with a slotted bow roller, or the installations here with slotted bow rollers, as the slots a are not very narrow nor deep and the Boomerang of the right size, 'flops over' without issue.

One question that has been at the back of my mind is that you used 1/2" rod. To which you welded rings. Your chain is 10mm so stainless rings of the same strength as the chain would need to be made from stainless wire of at least 10mm and better 12mm diameter. The rings would then be huge.

But let us await Lucy's verdict.

Jonathan

 

[NormanS]

I would not dismiss the benefits of your design nor method of manufacture, I have not tried it (and I don't weld) and not having tried it I have an open mind. But drilling is within the capabilities of most and as a simple manufacturing option for someone with a kitchen table it (drilling) seemed the best option. There is nothing 'less simple' about one long and one short arm. I suspect if you are going to bend a steel rod - its easier to do so in the middle than try and do so at one end. Horses for courses .

As Lucy might comment in the future, an unbiased input will be interesting - though given its winter with you - we might need to be patient.

I do know that the Oscalutti link, which has a fork at one end, if the fork in attached direct to the shank can lock vertically (or at right angles to the shank) with potentially disastrous consequences. And I'd not say never but would suggest some articulation (more than a shackle) between shank and Boomerang.

I have checked and the Boomerang works well with a slotted bow roller, or the installations here with slotted bow rollers, as the slots a are not very narrow nor deep and the Boomerang of the right size, 'flops over' without issue.

One question that has been at the back of my mind is that you used 1/2" rod. To which you welded rings. Your chain is 10mm so stainless rings of the same strength as the chain would need to be made from stainless wire of at least 10mm and better 12mm diameter. The rings would then be huge.

But let us await Lucy's verdict.

Jonathan

Jonathan, you keep on saying that I used stainless. For the avoidance of doubt ? The rings which I welded onto the rod were links of half inch galvanized chain. I made two cuts in the end of each link, leaving a half inch gap, into which the half inch rod was welded. This gave provision for a really good secure weld. Using half inch chain links, meant that appropriate shackles could be fitted, and also that the links were not excessively wide. I tend to use what is at hand, rather than scouring the earth for strange and exotic metals. ?

 

[Lucy52]

ooh. No pressure then.

OK. but will have to wait for warmer weather.