anchor problem on my 1990 290 sealine

[beltsandbraces]

anchor has been working fine until yesterday went to lower it and raised it instead causing it to jam solid, now have a problem releasing it and all it does now is click, have read that sealines have a cut out switch? does anyone no where this might be?

 

[jrudge]

anchor has been working fine until yesterday went to lower it and raised it instead causing it to jam solid, now have a problem releasing it and all it does now is click, have read that sealines have a cut out switch? does anyone no where this might be?

Welcome to the forum.

If it clicks this seems to suggest it is getting power but is physically jammed - hence a cutout switch is not really a likely candidate.

The clicking will be the solenoid - and if it is jammed you should see a large voltage drop on the volt meter in your panel. If however there is no voltage drop then it is possible the high power DC feed has indeed died ( but in my limited experience the winch has one high power DC supply which will power both the winch and the solenoid) or the winch burnt out.

If you are able to provide the make and model of the winch then you can bet there will an expert along very soon who will know the winch and likely cause.


Jeremy

 

[dpb]

I have had this exact issue recently on my Lofrans winch.
I freed the winch by pulling the chain from the locker by grasping it between the winch drum and the hole where the chain goes down through the deck, bit tricky to get the first bit out but then comes easy. The chain is then easily disengaged from the winch drum which on mine operated normally straight away once the tension was removed.
The click (which I am guessing only occurs when using the helm switch) is the solenoid operating, if you use the foot pedals by the winch they operate the solenoid directly so no click.
On mine this happened a few times and was the forerunner to the motor in the winch dying, but don't worry, it was easily and cheaply repaired by an electric motor specialist.

 

[IDAMAY]

Another possibility is that the solenoid has given up the ghost. On most of the eight Sealines I once owned, the solenoid was located in the anchor locker. They were in a grey box marked "Keep Dry" or words to that effect! You might think that the anchor locker isn't exactly the best place to keep anyhting dry. I had several failures and only cured the problem by fitting an IP rated solenoid that was waterproof even if it wasn't submersible. If that does turn out to be the problem you may need to be a bit of a contortionist to fit a replacement.

Good luck!

Richard.

 

[Solitaire]

anchor has been working fine until yesterday went to lower it and raised it instead causing it to jam solid, now have a problem releasing it and all it does now is click, have read that sealines have a cut out switch? does anyone no where this might be?

You have a trip switch, but it sounds as if your solenoid has met it's maker. What boat? The trip is either under the bed in the forward cabin or main panel in the stern cabin .

 

[AllanG]

What boat?

Sealine 290...as per thread title.

 

[Solitaire]

Sealine 290...as per thread title.

Yes, yes - I see that now!

 

[beltsandbraces]

yay sorted!!!!! after hanging upside down in the anchor locker for an hour and trying to trace wires from front to back some kind guy stopped to ask what i was trying to sort and suggested that he has a fuse near the battery cut out keys and hey presto there is an unmarked reset button. a bit bruised and battered but at least i have a working windlass and a little more knowlege.

 

[Elessar]

yay sorted!!!!! after hanging upside down in the anchor locker for an hour and trying to trace wires from front to back some kind guy stopped to ask what i was trying to sort and suggested that he has a fuse near the battery cut out keys and hey presto there is an unmarked reset button. a bit bruised and battered but at least i have a working windlass and a little more knowlege.

have a word with Luke on the sealine forum, he'll probably be able to send you an owners manual and wiring diagram.

Then you would have known

 

[beejay190]

yay sorted!!!!! after hanging upside down in the anchor locker for an hour and trying to trace wires from front to back some kind guy stopped to ask what i was trying to sort and suggested that he has a fuse near the battery cut out keys and hey presto there is an unmarked reset button. a bit bruised and battered but at least i have a working windlass and a little more knowlege.

I have experienced similar problem many times and whilst no expert on these matters when I hear the click I nip down to the aft cabin, unclip a wall panel, press the trip switch and all is Ok. Trouble is if I am helming single handed I don't like to leave the helm if there are boats within drifting distance. Providing I have got the anchor off the sea bed I slowly motor away from other boats so it is safer to leave the helm.
Problem I have had is that big chrome nut that sits on top of the windlass is sometimes too loose ( in which case the darn thing slips ) or too tight ( in which case it trips the switch ). So what I do now is every time before I take the boat out I run the windlass to make sure it is working OK, although that is not a cast iron guarantee it will behave itself when I need it later on. I also smother it with WD40. I have also fitted a swivel shackle but I reckon that at least 50% of the time the anchor comes up the wrong way round. No problem as long at it locks in to position I leave it where it is and sort it out when I am back on berth.
My general view is that if when I press the Down button the anchor releases itself from the bow roller; if when I press the Up button it comes up without jammimg / tripping the trip switch and if it also comes up the right way - there is cause for celebration! Happy Times