Anchor: free drop or button down

Jamesuk said:
Reading the posts i have just been reminded of a friends method of 'digging in' the anchor using the clutch or button which has the result of effectively stopping the boat before easing it off to proceed to the stern-to mooring. If you are good the idea is to have the chain put under a fraction of tension enough that would challenge the anchors holding power and carry on to ease it. I always said to him why do it so close to other boats ? He was sometimes just 6 feet off the dock.

Have you heard of or doing this ? He is an RYA instructor after all.
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Exactly what I do in Greece. Drop the anchor around three to four boat lengths from the wall, motor astern while simultaneously motoring the windlass down. When around half a boat length from the wall, stop the windlass. With experience it is pretty easy to synchronise the speeds of the boat and the windlass, so the boat should stop moving astern, setting the anchor. Then continue motoring the windlass astern until the crew can step off with the lines. Keep the boat motoring astern throughout.
 
I liked to get in as quick as possible with no fun stuff, so fenders out most in key points on leeward side with roving fender for GF at bow, off we go astern, down on the clutch goes the anchor at 4 boat lengths at what ever speed gives us positive steerage, get the windward line on. GF breaks the gypsy then Reverts to the electric winch button gets the bow a little in check, get the leeward line on, position for a strong head wind, tension chain, wip on the chain hook and ropes so the load is off the windless gangway down. :-)
 
snooks said:
Are we still talking about anchoring here?:D

What's the rush? Sailing isn't about rushing around, it's about taking your time and relaxing...if you want to hurry around, get a motorboat:)
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Both ha ha :-))

I do take my time but only the time required. Usually in the med the anchor is seen when it hits the bottom and the chain travels out at a rate its happy with. Button down the anchor and its tiresome to watch it get pulled out at. .55metres per second. As my instructor told me 'optimise, look cool, have fun. From a distance covering all that is what its about oh to add, no shouting if there is 30 kniots or more of wind have a game plan.
 
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Dockhead said:
+1


Setting anchor under sail, if you have working mechanical propulsion, seems kind of irresponsible to me. Please don't anchor upwind of me using that technique :)
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Believe it or not, people have been doing it that way for thousands of years, quite successfully. :)
 
Dockhead said:
If you've got a bunch of 12mm chain out and your windlass fails, you've got a problem. Manhandle it on board, if you've got crew with strong enough backs, or bend on a line and drag it on board along a side deck using a sheet winch. Would be a b*tech in rough weather.
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I would certainly have an electric windlass on any boat bigger than my current one - but I wouldn't fit a windlass that doesn't also have a manual backup capability. Most vertical-axis ones do, but not all. Not sure about horizontal-axis.

Pete
 
prv said:
I would certainly have an electric windlass on any boat bigger than my current one - but I wouldn't fit a windlass that doesn't also have a manual backup capability. Most vertical-axis ones do, but not all. Not sure about horizontal-axis.

Pete
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Horizontal axis usually have much better manual backup than vertical. You have a lever you can operate from standing position rather than having to kneel down with a winch handle in a poorly located slot (see Vyv's post above). In my view a horizontal shaft windlass is superior in all respects except the bulk if you have it on the deck. On my boat it is on a platform inside the locker, so below deck level. Not always possible in boats with lower freeboard as you can't get the fall for the chain.
 
Tranona said:
In my view a horizontal shaft windlass is superior in all respects except the bulk if you have it on the deck.
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And the fact that the chain is carried on only 90 degrees of the gypsy on a horizontal, whereas it is 180 degrees or even more on a vertical.

I recall being anchored at Pollensa in strong, gusty winds. Loud graunching noises began issuing from an unoccupied mobo nearby and it was clearly moving downwind. At first we thought its anchor was was dragging but investigation showed it was the chain jumping the gypsy on its horizontal windlass. Ok, the chain should not have been left on the gypsy without some other form of fastening but we are all human, even moboers:)
 
Tranona said:
Horizontal axis usually have much better manual backup than vertical. You have a lever you can operate from standing position rather than having to kneel down with a winch handle in a poorly located slot (see Vyv's post above).
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I have positioned mine (Lofrans Royale) so I can sit on the forward end of the coach roof and operate the lever. The chain drops into a chain locker located in the vee between the forward bunks. (It helps to remove the lid of this locker first :o)
 
parsifal said:
I have positioned mine (Lofrans Royale) so I can sit on the forward end of the coach roof and operate the lever. The chain drops into a chain locker located in the vee between the forward bunks. (It helps to remove the lid of this locker first :o)
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That is fine if you have the choice. Same as my SL Anchorman on my Eventide. Very easy to operate sitting or kneeling. Try doing that on the vast expanse of a Bavaria foredeck. Then you appreciate the set up and the control on a wander lead which all makes raising the anchor easy.
 
vyv_cox said:
And the fact that the chain is carried on only 90 degrees of the gypsy on a horizontal, whereas it is 180 degrees or even more on a vertical.

I recall being anchored at Pollensa in strong, gusty winds. Loud graunching noises began issuing from an unoccupied mobo nearby and it was clearly moving downwind. At first we thought its anchor was was dragging but investigation showed it was the chain jumping the gypsy on its horizontal windlass. Ok, the chain should not have been left on the gypsy without some other form of fastening but we are all human, even moboers:)
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Agree - never rely on the chain over the gypsy to hold the boat - the windlass is for handling the rode, not an anchor point.
 
prv said:
I would certainly have an electric windlass on any boat bigger than my current one - but I wouldn't fit a windlass that doesn't also have a manual backup capability. Most vertical-axis ones do, but not all. Not sure about horizontal-axis.

Pete
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That is where crew seekers come in useful. Or just for the one off time you have a problem pull up the anchor chain with a halyard :-)

I was on a 65ft cat in the BVI and thE skipper liked to put ALL the chain out. What a nightmare it was when the windless jammed. Good use of the spinnaker halyard now off to Rhode island 10 days away.
 
ossy moses said:
A point to remember is that windlass motors are basically starter motors and can overun and become generators,and then you got a problem,it happens.Ossy.
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Another plus point for a vertical windlass. The majority, all the better ones, have a worm and wheel gear, which you can pull as hard as you like but you can't rotate the motor.
 
Letting go

There is no need to pile up chain cable on top of the anchor.
You should lay the cable out.
Let go when going ahead at 2 knots (running moor)
or when going astern at 2 knots, (laying moor)
Let the anchor stop the boat. That way it gets well dug in.
We use a hydraulic windlass with horizontal axis. The hawse-pipe is directly in line with the gypsy at a down angle of about 45, and the navel-pipe is vertical down to the chain locker.
It is best if you do not have to handle the beastly thing. Self-stowing is the only efficient way.
We have a 150 kilo hall's pattern on 15mm chain. My diminutive mate copes with it very well.
Last boat we had two x 75lb CQRs self-stowing over rollers either side of the bowsprit and a Simpson Lawrence two drum 24 volt windlass. Again no need to actually touch the things. You get mucky fingers that way, or worse still you may lose fingers. Don't touch.
 
So i have been doing some reading about 'letting go' as apposed to using the windlass to lower the anchor. It seems the time to use the windlass is when anchoring in deep water. This is to prevent damage to the anchor itself, the gypsy, the windlass and with the possibility of losing the entire lot if you 'let go' 'free drop' the lot.

Interesting reading :-) A Captain (Shell) told me a story about a ship that lost the lot when they decided to drop the anchor onto a sea ledge/shelf of an island. only for the chain to then go off the side to eventually over power the holding ability of the anchor then boom off it goes like Gandalf the grey in the Fellowship of the ring, cast to the deep. Of course it ripped out the chain from the tanker losing the whole lot.

We did have a problem with a twisting chain once and we decided to motor down the anchor in 50 metres of depth but at 30 metres i stopped citing windlass struggling to hold the weight (making that high pitch noise like charter boats when they come stern to usimg the button but over powering it with the engine) so i pulled it back up.

Ahh so much to learn...
 
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I don't think I'll be letting my anchor and 65 metres of chain go in 66 metres of water, any time soon.:D
 
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