Anchor chain markers

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julians

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Has anyone used any anchor chain markers similar to the ones below for marking how much chain you have let out/hauled in?

I could do with know when I'm down to the last couple of meters before the anchor when lifting, and these look like a decent solution.

But do they stay in place or do they fall out eventually.

I realise I could just tie a small bit of string to a couple of links, but these look quite neat.

https://www.force4.co.uk/anchor-chain-markers.html
 
jrudge said:
Chain counter ? They are cheap and the best extra on the boat
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A chain counter is a great idea, but not cheap - at least compared with Force 4's plastic beads. On the subject of those beads, I've never tried them, but I know people that are quite happy with them. I guess a lot depends on the profile of the drive wheel on your windlass - there would seem to be plenty of scope for the wheel to displace the beads.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't really want the faff of cutting holes in the dash and running wires to the windlass, also I don't really need to know how much I've let out, I just need to know when I'm nearing either end.

These looked like quite a nice simple solution.

A chain counter would be a nice gadget though.
 
The other advantage of the chain counter is, of course, that it moves control of the windlass back to the helm and makes single handed anchoring so much easier.
 
I've ordered a couple of packs of 10 markers, it was only a tenner for 20 markers, will use one set for the anchor end and the other for the bitter end, I'll feed back on how well they stay put.
 
I have fitted a row of 8 of the same colour at 10m then a different colour at 20 and so on.
Fit on each link so that they can be seen from each side.
Fitted 8 as that can go past pretty fast
Make a note on your dash which colours signify what depth.
Count time for 10m to drop, mine is approx 15secs per 10m
If afloat whilst doing this ensure that the sacrificial tie is fixing the end of the chain to the boat
 
Rocksteadee said:
I have fitted a row of 8 of the same colour at 10m then a different colour at 20 and so on.
Fit on each link so that they can be seen from each side.
Fitted 8 as that can go past pretty fast
Make a note on your dash which colours signify what depth.
Count time for 10m to drop, mine is approx 15secs per 10m
If afloat whilst doing this ensure that the sacrificial tie is fixing the end of the chain to the boat
Click to expand...

I'm planning on getting some of these too. I've got 25 fathoms of anchor chain (45m) so my plan is

White = 10m
Blue = 20m
Green = 30m
Yellow = 40m
Red = 44m

I.e. colours of the rainbow in reverse. We have pretty clear water so I don't see the point in marking the end of the chain before the anchor. I reckon 8 markers at each stage will be enough (as above) giving me some spares.
 
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They work great. We found it helpful putting a reference colour chart under the anchor hatch for whoever's dropping the anchor, as well as on the dash.
 
PalmaTarga said:
They work great. We found it helpful putting a reference colour chart under the anchor hatch for whoever's dropping the anchor, as well as on the dash.
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that's a good idea … we've had those exact ones for a year and they have worked really well.
I always have someone operate the windlass but I can actually see the colours from the fly bridge.
 
DavidJ said:
........ and a row of five as the anchor breaks water
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petem said:
I.e. colours of the rainbow in reverse. We have pretty clear water so I don't see the point in marking the end of the chain before the anchor.
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Pete, those of David's are pretty critical tbh. I always have to single hand retrieve my anchor. I usually do it from the bow. However If the anchor is being retrieved because it failed to set I do it from the helm (tight anchorage).
When that anchor comes up you cant see it and even though I am careful there are times when I havent slowed down. When the anchor comes over the bow roller at speed it has the potential to do some nasty damage. Just my thoughts on the matter.
 
BruceK said:
Pete, those of David's are pretty critical tbh. I always have to single hand retrieve my anchor. I usually do it from the bow. However If the anchor is being retrieved because it failed to set I do it from the helm (tight anchorage).
When that anchor comes up you cant see it and even though I am careful there are times when I havent slowed down. When the anchor comes over the bow roller at speed it has the potential to do some nasty damage. Just my thoughts on the matter.
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That's the reason I want the markers, just so I can slow the winch down before the anchor comes up on the rollers, I do all the anchor dropping/lifting from the helm, and can't see the anchor itself until its too late.

I used the use the fact that the metre of chain immediately before the anchor was corroded as a visual cue, but I had new chain fitted over winter so now have no idea where I am in the chain.

I don't need to know how much I have put out, Ive managed to work out a system where I just count to 30 or 40 seconds while lowering the anchor and that is typically enough for 4-5m of water, but adjust from there for deeper or shallower scenarios.
 
BruceK said:
Pete, those of David's are pretty critical tbh. I always have to single hand retrieve my anchor. I usually do it from the bow. However If the anchor is being retrieved because it failed to set I do it from the helm (tight anchorage).
When that anchor comes up you cant see it and even though I am careful there are times when I havent slowed down. When the anchor comes over the bow roller at speed it has the potential to do some nasty damage. Just my thoughts on the matter.
Click to expand...

Point taken, ref raising from helm although I'm short without great eyesight so not sure if I'd see the chain / markers from the helm.

When you retrieve it yourself from the bow, do you do so in neutral?
 
petem said:
Point taken, ref raising from helm although I'm short without great eyesight so not sure if I'd see the chain / markers from the helm.

When you retrieve it yourself from the bow, do you do so in neutral?
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Yes. When retrieving from the bow I have the engines in neutral but rev-ing to about 1200 rpm for the charge. I pick the anchor chain up until it starts to straighten out then stop and let the weight of the chain then pull the boat forward. This cycle is repeated in shorter and shorter intervals as the boat gains momentum and does not adversely strain the windlass. I can see when directly over the anchor as the chain stops rising. I then take it slow. .... We cannot see the bottom. .... even if we grounded we couldnt see the bottom. C'est la vie.
 
We used the exact same plastic markers in our 10mm chain for many years. Didn't lose one and no need to repaint. I think you will find them very useful.
 
Just use a couple of cable ties on the link where you need to slow down. don't trim the tail, it acts like a flag when it comes over the roller.

Cable ties can also be used to mark length using colour coding etc. Do trim these and position the tag inside the link. Should pass through the windlass ok with very rarely having to replace a tie.
 
JerseyDiver said:
Just use a couple of cable ties on the link where you need to slow down. don't trim the tail, it acts like a flag when it comes over the roller.

Cable ties can also be used to mark length using colour coding etc. Do trim these and position the tag inside the link. Should pass through the windlass ok with very rarely having to replace a tie.
Click to expand...


We use coloured cable ties 2 on each link spaced out at 2m intervals ,I keep them long so it’s easier to see them ,they go though the winch fine ,had them on all our boats and never had a problem if one come off just put new one on on there only pence
 
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