Anchor attachment

[thinwater]

Sorry, that is nonsense.

You put a screw driver or spud wrench through the links and turn while lowering. The first time I tried it was on an 95' motor yacht. The whole crew (newbys) had been fussing with a backwards anchor for 15 minutes, this solved it in 30 seconds. I've done this with anchors as large as 150 kg. After that, I used it a few times on my boat. Piece of cake, no streching or straining involved.

BTW, the roller on a PDQ is on the port bow, so just as skinny as a monhull.

No, not nonsense. Not your cup of tea, but I assure you it works well. Just file it away. It might come in handy one day.

 

[thinwater]

I see what you’re saying and I have got carried away with a scale that’s not relevant in this context. Of course if the rope is fixed at both ends there is no rotation - that goes without saying. But there is a torsional force applied to the end fittings by the tension in the rope. But as you point out, it’s insignificant in yachts. I have a 3 stand nylon rode and would never consider a swivel

The tough thing about forums is that experience runs from a canoe to mega yachts. going around the world.

I use polyester pulling tape (AKA bull tape), treated with Maxijacket the first 10 feet, on a Cuban yoyo, for the rode on my fishing kayak. Very neat, very compact, and not really suitable for anything else. All chain on my PDQ, and just a little chain and the rest 3-strand on my Corsair F-24. All different, each optimized for purpose.

 

[NormanS]

So you put a screwdriver through the links, while lowering. Good luck with that idea.

 

[thinwater]

So you put a screwdriver through the links, while lowering. Good luck with that idea.

I did not say it was a theory. For the larger anchor, it was actually a spud wrench, which is better. I've done this a number of times, never with a moment's hitch. I'm sure it depends on boat-specific geometry. Perhaps not a mono-hulled sailboat with a forestay in the way.

 

[NormanS]

You would need a good supply of wrenches if you're going to lower the chain with one through the chain.

 

[thinwater]

You would need a good supply of wrenches if you're going to lower the chain with one through the chain.

I don't think you are understanding, explaining your disbelief.

While the anchor is slowly lowered using the windlass, the spud wrench tip is inserted between two links and rotated one dirrection or the other to turn the chain between the windlass and the roller. The wrench does NOT hold the chain or any portion of the weight of the anchor, it just twists the chain as it is moving, so that the twist works its way over the roller. Once the chain is correctly aligned between the roller and th windlass, the anchor will come up straight. No more than 1/2-turn can be required, so you probably only turn the wrench 1-3 times, lowering the anchor only 2-6 feet in the proess. Very little force is required.

You could probably do it right at the roller, with windlass not lowering. Just lever the chain around with a spud. Easy, IME easier than putzing with a boat hook.

 

[vyv_cox]

I did not say it was a theory. For the larger anchor, it was actually a spud wrench, which is better. I've done this a number of times, never with a moment's hitch. I'm sure it depends on boat-specific geometry. Perhaps not a mono-hulled sailboat with a forestay in the way.

You will experience great difficulty in convincing my wife of that! I feel certain she will continue to prefer rotate the anchor using a swivel.

 

[GHA]

What a pleasant start to a sunday. Pop in to YBW & have an anchor thread with good manners for a change instead of ranting opinions & squabbling

 

[thinwater]

You will experience great difficulty in convincing my wife of that! I feel certain she will continue to prefer rotate the anchor using a swivel.

Again, I think I am being misunderstood. This is not a usual practice, it is an expedient for when things have not gone right, perhaps because of severe tidal twisting (a long stay). I've only done this once on my boat, and several times for others.

The chain does not get twisted coming over the roller while I am anchored because the chain is held by a bridle and there is no tension over the roller while anchored. As soon as the anchor clears the bottom, the twists spin out. I then drift back while raising. The anchor (Manson or Mantus on my boat) aligns with the water flow and comes up straight. No turning is required 90% of the time. Perhaps 7-8% of the time I have the lower the anchor an raise one more time. Only a few times in 100 do I have to turn the chain or otherwise muscle the anchor around.