Ammeter wiring question.

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Oscarpop

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I am going to buy a needle ammeter to show the output from our wind gen and solar .

The type I want cost about 7 quid and have the shunt built in.

Am I right in assuming that the wiring is simply a question of running the ammeter across the positive wire?

Ie make a break in the wire, then put the ammeter between it?

Or have I got it a#se ended again?
 
Oscarpop said:
I am going to buy a needle ammeter to show the output from our wind gen and solar .

The type I want cost about 7 quid and have the shunt built in.

Am I right in assuming that the wiring is simply a question of running the ammeter across the positive wire?

Ie make a break in the wire, then put the ammeter between it?
Click to expand...

Yes, that's how an ammeter with an internal shunt is wired. However, bear in mind that your location for the ammeter might involve a longer cable run, and you should ensure that the cable is large enough to minimise voltage drop.
 
Looks good, although you are right about the translation.
I have no idea what this means:



"This ammeter compact range DC 0-50A, after the decimal point two. The need for additional auxiliary power. Supply voltage range of extra-wide, up to 6-28V, and can operate in 9V, 12V, 24V, no regulator. The power supply reverse polarity protection, access and do not burn. Display with bright LED digital tube display is stunning. Automatic SMD manufacturing process, and technology skills.

Special Note: in order to be measured from the line to take power to the ammeter, the ammeter design into the black wire of the power and enter the total, that is, the sampling line (thick line) is the ground, another root thick lines are for the inputs of the circuit is enlarged in the ammeter. Therefore, the sampling line (thick line) and the shunt connection with it is totally unacceptable, then positive, must be connected to the electrical appliances (ie, electrical negative). Otherwise, it will instantly burned ammeter, resulting in no display or show ---. Buyers to purchase, be sure to confirm clear, the two thick lines of the ammeter and the shunt connection with them must be connected between the two negative The specific connection please refer to the wiring diagram on the page."
 
Ha!

I'm about to throw out a marine all singing BEP amp/volt/content gauge as the instructions and menus are carp (OK, I can't make it work fully...)

I think these ebay jobbies require no calibration but probably need a shunt if more than 10A max. (voltmeters do not need a shunt)

Therefore, make sure an appropriate shunt is included in the package.

The dodgy English seems to refer to the meter's need to be powered. Older ones needed separate supplies, not practical on a boat, current ones pinch a tiny bit of power from the system being measured. Importantly, this means the digi meter must be in the neg lead so the powering for the electronics work. (Not an issue with a moving coil meter)

BTW, make sure you get one that reads neg as well as pos so you can see discharge as well as 'good stuff'...
 
I think that I will get one with an external shunt, if only to minimise the size of the holes in the woodwork.

Anyone got any suggestions for small , good quality ammeters?

Pref analogue.

Ta
 
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