Aluminium window frame - annodise or paint

[jakew009]

I am rebuilding the windows in my Merry Fisher 805 because the acrylic was all crazed in the old ones.

It's possibly one of the most miserable jobs I've ever tackled in my life, but I'm on the home straight now.

I want to change the colour of the frames from silver to black to make it a bit more modern.

The original frame was anodised.

Does the panel think I should try and get them reanodised in black, or should I spray them? I have access to proper 2k paint, but not sure that it will last in the salt?
But I'm equally not sure how well they will annodise being 20 years old.

What do the experts think?

 

[Keith-i]

I would have thought anodising is your best bet for durability.

 

[Bouba]

Your workshop is impressive

 

[Boathook]

If they have the slightest bit of corrosion could they be re-anodised ?

I can't see paint lasting to well with all the 'sharp' edges of the frame.

Possibly best to clean up and rebuild and put back. When I rebuilt my windows years ago due to leaking, similar style to yours, they had toughened glass in them and the opening sections 'plastic'. Replaced the plastic with toughened glass to get over the scratching.

 

[Gustywinds]

Dont anodise used parts unless you can machine back to bare metal otherwise it will look patchy and corrode where there is the slightest pitting. As a rule I only anodise fresh aluminium. For used, bead or vapour blast and immediately etch prime (do not leave for several days or the oxidisation will reform) then either paint or powder coat.

 

[jakew009]

Dont anodise used parts unless you can machine back to bare metal otherwise it will look patchy and corrode where there is the slightest pitting. As a rule I only anodise fresh aluminium. For used, bead or vapour blast and immediately etch prime (do not leave for several days or the oxidisation will reform) then either paint or powder coat.

That was my worry. I’m not convinced they would anodise evenly.

I think paint is possibly better than powder as at least if the paint flaked in the future I would have half a chance of repainting it in situ. With powder it would be a nightmare if it started to lift.

Do you have any paint recommendations? I see various ‘marine aluminium’ paints advertised but I’m wondering if a standard 2k would be better.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

I used hammerite and aluminium primer on the spreaders of my XOD about 5 years ago. It’s still looking pretty good.

 

[Dogone]

I repainted aluminium windows a few years ago. Did it right. Proper pro prep, clean, Awlgrip zinc like pre-treatment. A primer and a spray Awlgrip process. Looked great. It still corroded a bit in 2 years. I have slightly corroded Lewmar windows on the new to me 7 yr old boat. I think I will just buy new in 2 years before it gets to look awful. It will cost a bit more and last a bit longer due to hopefully being properly anodised first, but will be less hassle. You may want to consider doing that.

 

[Ferris]

I wondered about vinyl wrapping window frames, would that get around the corrosion issue. It would also be easier and non permanent.

 

[Gustywinds]

I wondered about vinyl wrapping window frames, would that get around the corrosion issue. It would also be easier and non permanent.

Certainly an option but remember it does scratch quite easily and you will be trapping any existing corrosion in.

 

[ylop]

That was my worry. I’m not convinced they would anodise evenly.

Were you planning to DIY the anodising or pay a service? It’s a while since I’ve done it but we used to outsource metal parts getting annodised and they blasted the surface before they started. We had odd shaped parts being annodised black and it didn’t seem to matter if they were left in “too long” to ensure all the intricate bits got covered. I’d ask the anodiser - but black seemed to be the safe option. (It mattered to the anodiser and we paid extra for the time involved).

If you were thinking of DIY then I think there’s a bit of an art to it so odd shapes are tricky.